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Installation procedure for a fan shroud

32K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  Cheaterfive  
#1 ·
Hello,
I have a 66 289 w/o AC & I would like to add a shroud for summer.

Couple question:
1) The width of my radiator is 18". The radiator looks new so I wanted to make sure that this sounds like the stock size for this car.

2) The NPD catalog has a few options for my application:
- 260, 289, 20" reproduction 8146-1A $32.50
- Concourse correct repro w/ proper cut-outs and rubber shield as original $32.00
- 6 & 8cyl 3 1/2" deep $79.50
*I measured and I think the 3 1/2" may be too deep. I have read that the fan should be sticking out a bit and I think the 3.5 will bury it a bit. So should I go with the Concourse and the standard 66 289 bracket kit?

3) What is the correct installation procedure?
Is the shroud one piece or does it split to install? What if anything needs to be removed when installing.

Thanks,
_Seth
 
#2 ·
I would suggest buying the concours shroud. You will also need the proper brackets for your rad. You need to check and see if it is a 2 row, 3 row or 4 row radiator.

To install it you remove the fan, put the shroud on lose, reinstall the fan and finally secure the shroud.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I don't think I have a cooling problem, just trying to plan for summer. From what I have read these cars do creep a bit at idle. The car was in CO for the last 10 years and this will be it's first 'hot' summer.

At idle in the garage she runs at 185 (tested with a infrared temp gauge). But I am worried about stop and go traffic this summer. Even during the winter when I get caught in a series of red lights after running her, the temp gauge starts to creep up a bit ,so I want to deal with it before we get into the 100's (I'm in the valley). I also noticed that at 185 my temperature gauge points at the P in TEMP, so not sure if the creep I saw even matters, I am going to put my infrared thermometer in the glove and check it the next time I see the behavior.

My plan for summer:
- Radiator shroud
- 30/70 Antifreeze/Water + Water Wetter.

I want to go as stock as possible, but make sure she operates in a nice safe range.
 
#6 ·
Take off the cap and look inside. You can see how many rows of tubes there are.

If it is a 3 row then the fan will be too close to it unless it has a short (non-factory) fan spacer.
 
#7 · (Edited)
It appears to be a 3 row. 3 little slits when I look inside. The fan sits 2" away from the radiator where the fan blades are flat. Does this sound like a non-factory spacer was installed., I can wave my hand in between the radiator and fan. If I measure 3.5" out from the radiator that would be completely covering the existing fan by about 1/2"
 
#13 ·
The prob I had and didn't even think about it, here in MS it gets HOT in the summer. I had a 190 thermostat with short spacer and a 4 blade fan and the needle stayed right at 3/4 or hotter. I went and bought me a 2 1/4" spacer from scott drake and a flex- a light fan 6 blade. It dropped it to halfway then. Then I bought the shroud still stuck at halfway, my uncle asked what thermostat I had in it, so I went and bought me a Fail safe 160 degree thermostat and the needle stays right at 1/4". Hope this helps. I would check these things, spacer-fan-thermostat-shroud.
 
#15 ·
You can get a non-stock spacer from Summit. It does not look factory at all but if you paint it black it looks OK.

They just started making a short spacer that looks factory.
 
#16 ·
Installing Fan Shroud

Recently received a 67 coupe...289. Engine would overheat. First thing mechanic friend said was to install a fan shroud. Installed one today, notice fan blade lightly scraping the plastic shroud near the top. Cranked up the motor and the blade hooked into the plastic and tore the new shroud in half ( by by $40.00). So now what, if this is the shroud that was sold as the correct one....why the rubbing of the fan on the inside? I measured the fan spacer, its 3 inches. Seems like a shorter one, say 2.5 would allow the fan room to move
freely. By putting on a shorter spacer would this cause any problem. By the way I'm new at being a "mechanic" and I use that word lightly. Any ideas?