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Discussion starter · #41 ·
#42 ·
silvernations said:
clearly it hasn't sold for a reason
Click to expand...

While the '69 Fastback (Sportroof) body style is consistently ranked as the most popular Vintage Mustang of all time the '69 Hardtop body style consistently ranks as the least popular of all time. If the '69 Hardtop appeals to you you should be able to pick this up for around $10K. And those bugly Cragar wheels have to go to the scrap pile immediately!
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/d/pompano-beach-67-mustang-coupe-silver/6768614979.html

I've already posted this one but the seller added a few more pictures. He's out of town for the holidays so he can't take more but swears there are no rust issues (undercarriage, engine bay, etc). He said years ago there was a rust issue with the fuel tank and it was replaced. He said he's the 3rd owner and he's had it for 20 years (mostly in storage). I suppose it's worth a look, considering it's not too far from me..
 
#48 ·
Look at everything near you even if it is not the right model/ year. You may not end up buying the car but you will gain knowledge so when the car comes up that you like 500 miles away you will have the knowledge to evaluate the car.


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#50 ·
It looks nice to me, but it is a car that is "done". It looks like it really doesn't need anything beyond cleaning up the engine bay some. If that's what you want, great, but if you want something to mess around with - this car is not it.

I think that it's priced a little high, but maybe not for Florida, and it's not overpriced by much. I'm not crazy about the color but if you love it, great. If you don't, add another $15k to your total to change the color.
 
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#52 ·
Hey, for what it's worth, I'd figure 15K isn't so much to spend on a driver. Coat all the visible rust you can find with naval jelly or some other product that will stop it from getting very much worse, don't drive in the rain if you can help it, keep it indoors when parked, and drive the crap out of it until the paint or the wheels fall off. It'll look great going by at 20 MPH! Enjoy it all you can. Why put loads more cash into it trying to fix every small flaw? You will have 15K worth of fun out of it.

Driving a classic is the most fun you can have with one, in my opinion. I purchased a 69 Mach 1 from a guy who drove it 1200 miles over 11 years. When I got home with it I asked him if he felt bad that I drove it 570 miles home the day I bought it. It was the best 570 miles I have driven a car in years. Many more to go.

Have fun with yours, don't worry if you spent a little more than another guy. It's only money, you'll make more.
 
#53 ·
Wow, what a read - Talk about a close shave!

The most important parts of buying are:
* Know what to look for - e.g. cowl/torque box rot etc. I think you got a crash course...
* Don't be in a hurry - finding the right car at the right price is a treasure hunt so enjoy the process
* Be willing to travel (with most trips being wasted so do some sight seeing along the way)
* Cars that are driven are a much safer bet than ones that sit 5-30 years - you can bet what you see is what you get mechanically - barn finds can be quite expensive
* Anything sitting in weeds for any period of time will require big welding projects upon deep investigation.
- Surface rust on everything underneath is a dead giveaway a car has been in the weeds for years
* Paint and body work is hella expensive, the rest is easy and fun
* Overspray, especially in wheel wells and underneath is a HUGE RED FLAG! RUN...
* Get the car on a lift if you are really serious
* The most dangerous purchases are the ones you want the moment you see it! Its just too easy to hit the "I believe" button.
- Print out one of the many Mustang purchase checklists.
- Be methodical and bring a knowledgeable friend or pay someone knowledgeable especially for special interest Mustangs e.g. GT, Calif Spec, GT350s. lotta clones out there and people willing to lie
- VMFrs are everywhere and we love to express opinions. let us know if you are in their area looking at a car (although we not above waveing you off and buying it out from under you when you leave ;o)
* While the most dangerous purchases may be the ones you want the moment you see it - if it passes a thorough inspection, its the right car for you - buy it...

Good luck and have fun!
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
dobrostang said:
Wow, what a read - Talk about a close shave!

The most important parts of buying are:
* Know what to look for - e.g. cowl/torque box rot etc. I think you got a crash course...
* Don't be in a hurry - finding the right car at the right price is a treasure hunt so enjoy the process
* Be willing to travel (with most trips being wasted so do some sight seeing along the way)
* Cars that are driven are a much safer bet than ones that sit 5-30 years - you can bet what you see is what you get mechanically - barn finds can be quite expensive
* Anything sitting in weeds for any period of time will require big welding projects upon deep investigation.
- Surface rust on everything underneath is a dead giveaway a car has been in the weeds for years
* Paint and body work is hella expensive, the rest is easy and fun
* Overspray, especially in wheel wells and underneath is a HUGE RED FLAG! RUN...
* Get the car on a lift if you are really serious
* The most dangerous purchases are the ones you want the moment you see it! Its just too easy to hit the "I believe" button.
- Print out one of the many Mustang purchase checklists.
- Be methodical and bring a knowledgeable friend or pay someone knowledgeable especially for special interest Mustangs e.g. GT, Calif Spec, GT350s. lotta clones out there and people willing to lie
- VMFrs are everywhere and we love to express opinions. let us know if you are in their area looking at a car (although we not above waveing you off and buying it out from under you when you leave ;o)
* While the most dangerous purchases may be the ones you want the moment you see it - if it passes a thorough inspection, its the right car for you - buy it...

Good luck and have fun!
Click to expand...

What an awesome breakdown...you are VERY right!

I went and looked at that 69 fastback and it definitely has some issues. Clear signs of bondo in both quarters and rockers (just a lot of cover-up in general). Also seemed to have a crack in the bell housing....haven't seen that in a while.

Thank you to everyone who's helped me out with all of this along the way, it means the world to me to be part of a group of such knowledgeable and humble people!
 
#55 ·
I have one more: its more important to buy the right car than the right model. I had no imagination so I had to have a 69 fastback ;o) but a cool calif 66 fb came along with no rust, sealed cowl, car had been loved - bit long in the tooth but all original. I fell in lust immediately. Finding a car that has had a good life is extremely rare and worth snatching...
 
#56 · (Edited)
dobrostang said:
I have one more: its more important to buy the right car than the right model. I had no imagination so I had to have a 69 fastback ;o) but a cool calif 66 fb came along with no rust, sealed cowl, car had been loved - bit long in the tooth but all original. I fell in lust immediately. Finding a car that has had a good life is extremely rare and worth snatching...
Click to expand...
I've wanted a 69/70 FB for some time so I was trying to sell my really nice, rust free, all original sheet metal, hasn't seen rain since 1983 '65 coupe to help fund the purchase and couldn't even get a phone call or email from an interested party with it listed at $13k. I finally decided the likelihood of finding another vintage mustang as nice as what I already own for anything close to a reasonable price is getting smaller each day, so I may as well keep it.
 

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