Having problems adding photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

Check the cowl for leaks. Seeing the cowl cover could be an indicator that it leaks. Simple test - remove the cover in front of the windshield. pour a glass of water on the driver side and one on the passenger side. If the water comes out from underneath the car (under fenders) you are good. If the water comes into the interior floorboard, the cowl will need to be repaired/replaced. It also looks like the drip rails were removed. Those are typically not removed unless there was serious rust. Hope this helps

 

The missing roof rails are a big problem. It's possible that was done only for style, but unless it was done properly it weakens the roof structure. The row of rust blisters tells me it was not done properly. That's a problem with the floors, by the way. If done properly, a big plus. If done badly, it's worse that if it were not done at all.

 

Money pit.

 

The floors rot out because the cowl or windshield (or both) leak. From the fact that it has a cowl cover, the cowl leaks. This sheet metal is available, but it is a major operation to replace. Paint will be damaged in the process. In the 67/68, the cowl cover is only a slight temporary solution as the holes for the wiper posts allow for water to get in the cowl. I see plenty of 'restored' cars with the cowl cover on them. To me, they are confusing 'restored' with 'painted.' Cowl leak can lead to structural issues in the front frame members. Look very carefully at the torque boxes and the frame rails for any damage. Check the shock towers for holes being gnawed into them so they could access the grease zerks. This, when done improperly, which is most of them, can lead to running cracks in the towers. This is bad news. If you see that, then the towers need to be replaced. Another major operation. At some point, the drip rails were shaved. This is where the bubbling rust over the windows is coming from. If that's crunchy, that's a problem.
Not trying to be a total downer here, just realistic. It is far better to start with something solid than to dive into a major resto unless you already knew that was what you were going to do and have the experience.
Watch out for what appears to be 'pretty paint' and what it can hide.
If you share your budget, skill set and desires I'm sure a suitable car can be found. Where are you located?

 

Thank You ylexot

I have 8k to get started. Again not looking for a show car just something sound that my wife and I can take out for a ride and have some fun with. The owner is asking 6k for this car. I was not going to go over 4500 if and only if I could get it running on Saturday after crawling all around and making sure no rust issues underneath. I'm fairly new to this. My only other experience is a 82 corvette I picked up years ago for a steal got running good and had repainted. We enjoyed it for a few years then life happened and i had to sell it. Honestly have been looking at a 78 corvette for same price that is in much better condition but the 68 mustang has always been on my mind, as I was born in 68 would be cool to have a birthyear car.


Even though the responses are not what I wanted to hear they ARE what I needed to hear and that is why I decided to post up and ask those who know. I really don't want to get into a money pit that would defeat the purpose.

I am on the eastern shore of MD in Easton about 30 min east of Annapolis.

 

I would run away from that car as fast as possible. The blisters in the paint above the side windows tell me that car is rotting away from the inside.
For your $8K budget you can find a very nice 6 cylinder coupe and a nice V8 coupe. Fastbacks and convertibles are a completely different story.

 

Not the car you're looking at. You will end up having $30K invested in a car that's worth $10K. Most of us here are underwater or upside down meaning we have more money invested that the car is worth. That car has so many problems you will give up on it before you finish. Find a car that's in better condition to start with.


Take a look at this thread. I can guarantee you that the car you are looking at will look like this one when it's stripped.
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/621479-1965-mustang-rust-repair.html

Yeah I’m done thinking about this one. I’ll keep looking

 

That's a decent budget for a driver. Depends where you want to start. This one is a 66, but is a pretty solid start point. Lots of assembly and stuff might be missing.
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/holly-springs-1966-mustang-coupe/6984383085.html

BTW, your reason is my reason for owning our 67's.

 

Thank You

 

I know nothing about this car. Notice the OBO in the ad:
https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/d/hutchins-1968-ford-mustang/6993868656.html


Another:
https://lubbock.craigslist.org/cto/d/lubbock-1968-mustang/6991232663.html


And another:
https://collegestation.craigslist.org/cto/d/wellborn-1968-mustang-coupe/6994980784.html


You may need to look at cars away from the coast to find one with minimal rust. They are out there, you just have to find them.

 

Is there a number that providing I could get it started up and there were no major rust issues underneath that would make it a project worth doing?


If I was to convince the guy the car is just rotting away and better to get X today or watch it rust away to nothing in your yard and leave me X to start working on the body issues would there be any value there? I have a buddy that does body work as a profession and he has agreed to help me out so I would have some professional guidance and help. If I could get it for a price that If I had 4,5,6K left in my budget would that make sense?

 

Is there a number that providing I could get it started up and there were no major rust issues underneath that would make it a project worth doing?

Not the car you're looking at. You will end up having $30K invested in a car that's worth $10K. Most of us here are underwater or upside down meaning we have more money invested that the car is worth. That car has so many problems you will give up on it before you finish. Find a car that's in better condition to start with.


Take a look at this thread. I can guarantee you that the car you are looking at will look like this one when it's stripped.
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/621479-1965-mustang-rust-repair.html

 

The cars awhtx brings up shows the problem in that thinking. The first two are good looking. One can easily dump another $4k into those improving suspension and all the little things to fix, and there will be plenty of that to find post purchase. Suspension, brakes (disc conversion), interior pieces, dash pieces. It adds up quickly. They have the advantage that the bodies look good from the few pictures shown, but they need to be investigated further. There's lots of 'nice paint on basically just an old car' out there. The third one from College Station is the best example of the issue. If you dump 4k into that one, you will probably have the nice body and paint of the other two, but still have a 6 cylinder. I've seen better quality cars in the 8k range than the third one. Be patient. Use Searchtempest. Check out www.estatesales.net or whatever is used close to you for that function. A fairly nice 68 came up here about a month ago and was going in the 9k range. Just needed to have the 'been sitting a while' stuff done to it. Sometimes just driving around the countryside can yield some nice results. The car you show looks like the paint is thicker than a Frito corn chip. The cracks are because there's bondo (or something) underneath that expands at a different rate. That one really needs to be completely stripped down to be solid again. It's a biiiiiig project. Easiest way to get discouraged is to get one like that, strip it down to the shell, realize how much work still needs to be done and end up selling it for pennies on the dollar just to get it out of the garage. You want a driver, but a solid driver. Look for minimal body work, as in nothing needed in the unibody. Paint will probably be faded. Interior will be serviceable and drive train should be solid. Beware of fresh paint and pretty wheels with a clapped out engine bay and collapsed suspension. I see plenty of clapped out cars with new wheels and tires. That's the first clue...

 

The car you show looks like the paint is thicker than a Frito corn chip. The cracks are because there's bondo (or something) underneath that expands at a different rate.

You said it right the first time...cracking in the paint is caused by excessive mil build in the finish. I've only ever seen plastic filler crack in the even that the metal beneath it was completely rotted out and fell apart, thus causing the filler to break. But I've never actually seen filler crack from too much thickness. Even on filler that's 1/2" thick, I can hit it with a hammer and dent the metal before the filler actually breaks.

To the OP--at your price range almost any car you get is probably going to need some work. It's difficult to find a nice car that needs hardly anything. They do exist, but they're worth a lot more obviously.

I've also concluded that rust is not your enemy--it was the previous guy's body work. A lot of home restorers that are shade tree welders and 'body guys' with some creative solutions. My SCJ Mach is just a disaster as I dig in farther to what the previous guy did, and it was EXTREMELY unsafe had they ever tried to finish it. The floor pan was 'welded' in with little tack welds around the edge but there was zero penetration apparently as I just ripped the entire floor pan out by hand without cutting any welds. And once I removed a thing metal panel from the firewall/toe board that was covered with 1/2" to 3/4" filler, I saw the frame rail actually protruded through a hole in the firewall and was tack welded into place. The metal panel they welded in was just to cover that up.

My 67 was a disaster too.

I'm venting now, but I'd buy your car with the mindset that you will pay up to $8k for it, and eventually you will probably need to put another $10k + into it, depending on how crazy you want to get, to get it to your level of liking. I find the most difficult thing to do when buying anything--whether it's another car or farm equipment in my case, is to not make the purchase an emotional one, where you see it and you instantly want it. That's where I really have to listen to my gut feeling.

 

Consider that car needs to be a) stripped to metal and painted correctly, when you do you are likely to find major damage in the front fender and the drip rails will have to be dealt with, unfortunately, the metal is going to be thin to weld to with the rust so it will be another major repair. b) you could clean it up, seal the cracks and enjoy driving it. 4500 is not a bad car for plan b. if the interior is presentable and the drive train is at least mid-life.



I always check teh wiring especially under the dash. If it looks original and to be in good shape, that is a major plus, otherwise they can become a can o worms. Get underneath and do a serious examination of the front and rear frame rails. Poke around with a solild knife or better yet ice pick. Surface rust and paint can cover a lot of major damage. If the bottom of the car has thich rust everywhere, its likely it sat in long grass and that requires a serious inspection, car in the air kind of inspection to understand what you are getting. Bad cowl is major repair, do some you tube visits for Mustang cowl repair and decide if you are up for it.



If they all check out 4500 isn't bad IMHO. Having a friend that can do paint is a major plus, don't let the pretty paint fool you, when you look at that car see a rusty car that's been sitting for 20 years, they both will cost the same to square away.

 

Some here probably know more than me but have you considered looking out west or the deep south? Even something that is mechanically depleted but has a rust free body is easier to deal with than something that is shiny but is a rusting rust bomb. Most of us can do the mechanical stuff but not the body work so much. Guys in the west and south do such unicorns actually still exist? Could he buy a decent driver for $8000?

 

Good choice passing on that one. FWIW, every place there is a bubble in the paint there is a pinhole in the metal underneath. That, and rust is like an iceberg... what you can see is only 1/10th of what lurks beneath... in this case beneath the paint. IMHO, the car you were originally looking at is a "parts car" at best.

 

Thanks all for your guidance.

I’m just looking for something I can get started with. A car that isn’t a rust bucket that needs work but I could also take out for a ride every once in a while during its stages of getting to be “the car”. At this time a shiny paint job isn’t as important as having a solid start. I would much rather deal with mechanical and interior than a full body restoration.

I have spent hours searching online and it’s looking a good 67-68 start at 14k and go up from there. I’m not there right now. I have seriously considered selling my jeep but I do enjoy the jeeping thing too. I know life is all about choices. I’m just amazed at asking prices. I have seen cars that I would be bringing home in boxes for 10k lol.

If I was able to spend 15k at this time I would have a tough time picking the one I want from all the listings I have seen at that asking price. I don’t have a problem having 15-20 in a car just not all at once.


I’m located in Maryland. If anyone knows of a decent stater in my current price ability please let me know.

Thanks
Joe

 

I have spent hours searching online and it’s looking a good 67-68 start at 14k and go up from there.

Those sellers are the ones that watch too much Barret-Jackson and Mecum on TV. They think their 6 cylinder Hardtop is a gold mine. I know there are guys who love the Hardtops but let's face the facts- a basic Hardtop is a $10K car at most.

Take the '69 model for instance. A '69 Mach 1 is one of the most desirable Mustangs out there and they sell for big bucks. The '69 Hardtop is probably the least desirable Mustang and it's tough to even sell one for any price.
So those guys asking $14-$15K aren't selling. Those cars languish unsold for months on craigslist or Fleabay. You have to network and turn over rocks looking for the right car at the right price. It does happen but they seldom "fall in your lap".

 

Any thought to picking up a Fox-body Mustang ('79-93)? Decent looks and performance and priced reasonably. You can gain some experience working with the Windsor small-block, the Tremec transmission and 8.8 rear axle, all of which will be useful in a later '67-68 build.

 

I really have no interest in anything other than 67-68 as far as mustangs go. I had 2001 5.0 I sold last winter after racking up over 200,000 miles on it.

Had a C3 corvette that I restored about 8 years ago enjoyed for a few years but had to sell due to life... Looking to fill that void in my life lol

I’m looking for something I can keep for a long while and enjoy. Not looking to hot rod do burnouts etc. Want a classic type car to take off on a weekend with my wife when I don’t feel like taking the jeep or the motorcycle.

I love the mid-late 60s mustangs the 70s-90s don’t do much for me. I like the more recent but getting one which I have considered is just buying a car if that makes any sense.

 

Patience. It will be rewarded. I spent about two years looking for my convertible, but I was very particular that it had to be a 4 speed.
In case youhave not seen my PM (and sorry I did not see yours until today):
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/ctd/d/walnut-cove-1967-ford-mustang/6997780433.html

 

jjpish68, good on you for asking here BEFORE you buy! All too often, someone would have bought that blue car and only then asked us about it. Of course, the buyer would have found out he paid good money for a worthless car.

I didn't see anything in your posts about your location. Please put your location in your profile. It will help us to help you.

As you're finding out, when looking for a 67/68 coupe, it's all about rust, Rust, RUST! Finding a nice driver that isn't rusted out can be a challenge in most areas of the U.S. However, in the Southwest, it's must easier to find such a car. Therefore, no kidding, it's very worthwhile to travel to Arizona, New Mexico and California to find a nice, driver Mustang. Whatever you spend in travel and shipping will pay off many times over compared to having rust repaired with paint and body work.

Many people shopping for a classic Mustang apply used car logic. That is, they focus on how the car runs and drives. You want to focus on the condition of the body first and foremost. No kidding, a nice, rust free Mustang with a blown engine is a very good buy! The cost and effort of rebuilding the engine or buying a new engine is minimal compared to the monumental, ridiculous cost of replacing rust with paint and body work. Therefore, pay no attention to "friends" who tell you what they bought back in the 1980s. It's completely irrelevant here in the 21st century.

Furthermore, if you want a V-8 Mustang, buy a V-8 Mustang. It's sounds logical to think, "Hey, I can get this great deal on an inline-6 Mustang and just swap in a V-8". Bad idea. The inline-6 Mustangs and the V-8 Mustangs are completely different cars. The body is the same and that's about it. To properly do a V-8 swap requires new transmission, radiator, front suspension, brakes, differential, rear suspension, etc. So pay close attention to VIN codes. Many people improperly do a V-8 swap into an inline-6 Mustang and try to flip it for profit. Unsuspecting buyers pay good money for such cars which end being a complete rip-off. I've seen it happen and it's not pretty. Stay far away from those cars. (If you know what you're getting into and you want to replace everything anyway, sure, doing a V-8 swap can make sense. But most people don't realize what's involved.)

On the other hand, if you're happy with an inline-6 Mustang, by all means, buy a nice, clean example. When properly cared for or restored, they're great cars. An inline-6 which is properly tuned and in good condition will pull like a mule and easily cruise at 75 MPH. Put an overdrive trans behind it and it's even better.

Keep looking and keep asking questions. Your car is out there. And have fun!

 

Patience and plane tickets! After fixing rust buckets most of my life I wanted a solid Mustang. It took 2 years and a lot of disappointment to find a real rust free original car. You should be able to find a good solid hardtop for 8 grand! I wanted a 67 to replace the wife's we had to sell due to "life" but it proved impossible for me because of some movie? Hope you have better luck!

 

My birth year was 58. Yeah a 58 vette would be cool!...and out of my price range