I went with a pilot bearing on mine...just because that's what Modern Driveline recommended. I crushed it the first time I installed the T5 and had to start all over.

 

I really don't know which is better or why. My clutch kit came with a bearing so I used that. It was a caged roller bearing.

 

You're probably over thinking it - when the clutch pedal is released the shaft is going to be turning at the same speed that the crankshaft is turning so really the bushing or bearing is only there to locate the front of the trans input shaft. There shouldn't be much side-loading of that bearing unless something is out of line or loose. The only real reason to get a roller bearing is if you know you will be sitting in traffic for hours with the clutch pedal depressed and the trans in gear and want to minimize the wear (where the engine is spinning and the input shaft is mechanically stopped because of the car stopped and it's in gear)

 

Mine came with a bushing. That's what I used.

 

Mine came with both, and we went with the bushing. It drives great, and have no regrets using it opposed to the bearing.

 

Bushing

 

I kind of like bushings. Kind of rare but every once in a while a bearing can go bad/get contaminated and eat into the the input shaft. Kind of annoying. You don't get that with bushings. Plus those bearings are a kind of a SOB to remove where there's a variety of tricks to removing bushings that will pretty much pop them right out. There's even a special tool with a grease fitting that you can screw into a bushing so you can just pump grease into with a grease gun and that pushes the bushing right out. Wish they had something that slick for bearings.
If you never plan on changing it again, you might prefer a bearing. They are supposed to be better. Neither choice is wrong.

 

Appreciate the feedback. Seems like both work well with T-5s. This is the type of part that I don't want to skimp on and make the best choice and call it done. I noticed there's an extra special kevlar bushing that Summit sells. It's a wopping $50 and supposed to be able to resist wear yet provide it's own "lubrication" as needed (which now that I think about it, sounds like a contradiction). Probably overkill for my ride but I may talk to the techs and Summit to get their take and if pans out just splurge and go for it. An extra $35 invested into this area that's not often opened up seems like a good plan.

 

The bushing is better in my book the bearigs are a bit loose and dont support the shaft as well.

 

What are you going to be using for clutch friction material?

If you're going to use a disc with an organic lining then use a bushing. If you're going to use a sintered iron disc, use a bearing...I'd apply some threadlocker to the OD of the bearing.

 

What are you going to be using for clutch friction material?

If you're going to use a disc with an organic lining then use a bushing. If you're going to use a sintered iron disc, use a bearing...I'd apply some threadlocker to the OD of the bearing.

I bought my used engine/tranny/bell/clutch from a fella and ran the #s and found that the clutch setup is a King Cobra. According to info on the part # it went out of production in early 2013 and has been replaced with a different part # and this one was a very common and well liked clutch for vehicles under 400hp. It's not a real aggressive clutch as I understand. I hope that may be enough info. to help answer your question on if this one has an organic lining or not.

Thanks for the help.

 

For anyone intested in seeing more about the kevlar pilot bushing here's a link.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-ba50mk

 

If you do use a bearing and your input shaft has any wear pattern it will eat up the bearing

 

I used a bearing only because everything else was new and that's what the T-5 had as OE so :shrug:Bearings are like computers in that when they work there great :thumbsup: bushing more like a stone dependable but will wear the shaft although very slowly