This may help some.

radiators

 

I've read that a few times and it's a great writeup.

But there isn't anything there showing options for the lower clamps.

 

Give him a call. I've heard he is great to talk to.

contact

 

The article did mention lower supports toward the end of the Mustang Steve write up:

Radiator fits like it was meant to be there.
Upper clamp is from 67-69 Mustang or
Cougar

Lower clamps can be fabricated or modify
some from 67-70 Mustang with 24"
radiator. Make them so the bottom of the
radiator just barely clears the frame.

 

Found a picture of these lower brackets.

Found in this article:
Installing A Ford Mustang Aluminum Radiator - Mustang Monthly Magazine


It looks like it would be simple enough to make something similar out of flat stock and bend it to fit the radiator. The original style bracket looks beefier, but is it really needed?
http://www.cjponyparts.com/lower-radiator-mounting-bracket-pair-1968-1970/p/RADB2/

 

I put a 24" Griffin Radiator in my 65, and utilized some of the installation brackets, but also modified them. See attached. The one that show the front of the radiator shows the holes put in the support frame to hold the radiator, and the second shows how I made the brackets work. I also utilized the stock bottom mounting brackets.


Here is a link to the post I did for Old Air Products: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/501699-64-66-mustang-24-radiator-conversion-diy.html

 

Questions about 24" radiator in a 65

Started my mod yesterday. No turning back.

I bought the 24" radiator brackets off eBay. So I should be set.

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Post some pics when you're done so we can see the results. :thumbsup:

 

I bought the 67 lower brackets and cut the hell out of them to make things work. It felt silly after spending 30 bucks on them. You could easily make some U shaped brackets and then use some sort of rubber to insulate. On another project, I used some aluminum C-channel and cut up radiator hose for insulation.

 

A much neater way then radiator hose is to order some adhesive-backed felt or similar material from McMaster Carr. It's not very expensive, and makes for a very neat job.

 

Is the radiator supposed to sit this far back from the core support? I can't get it any closer because of interference at the top.

It's about 1 3/4" back from the front of the core support at the bottom.

I can probably fix this interference with a swivel hose fitting.

This is the Champion radiator I bought:
EC379
21.75" tall (22" with cap) x 25.25" wide (with brackets)
Core: 16" tall x 24.25" wide x 1.75" thick

 

Another thing I noticed. With the bottom of the radiator sitting on the strut brace, there is about 1 3/4" that is below the front cross member. I don't think I can bring the radiator up or it will interfere with the hood...right?

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It looks like your radiator is about an inch too tall. If it were shorter it would fit underneath the flange on the top of the core support.

 

Agreed on it being too tall.

Other than the Griffin radiator in GearHeadPeter's post, does anyone have a part number for a 24" radiator that they used and knows will fit? Tried to search everywhere looking for a post with part numbers and am coming up with nothing.

 

The height may be an issue, but the front to back spacing looks ok. You don't want the cap too close to the core support or it will be a pain to take off.

 

Here is the height from the front. I ordered a 67 clamp mount ( I ordered a 69 bracket kit last week not knowing it was different than the 67...oops)

Is the fact that the bottom of the core is blocked a bit going to intact cooling much? I assume a fan will pull some air through there even though it's not complete open in front.




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If you leave the radiator in its present location you will need to fab up a panel to fill the gap between the radiator and the core support or the incoming air will go around the radiator rather than through it. Do you need the radiator moved forward to allow for fan clearance or is it OK where it is?
I doubt that you will see much negative effect from the blocked portion at the bottom as it is now but if you move the radiator forward to meet the core support then that portion of the radiator will be ineffective.

 

Got the correct upper bracket and it looks a bit better.

There's only a 1/2" gap from the upper lip of the core support to the face of the radiator.

But there's a 2" gap at the bottom where air could go around.

Any ideas on how you'd fill this space in?

Along the bottom would be pretty easy. I can bend a piece of 20gauge sheet metal to take up the gap. I guess I could then run a piece around the opening and tack it to the lip that's present. I'd need to get a shrinker/stretcher and learn how to use it. Also thinking about using some ABS plastic and making a shroud out of that...might be easy to work with because I can bend it with a heat gun.

Another option is to get a different radiator if I could find one that would fit under the top lip of the core support, but not finding a good option there yet.

 

Dan I know i am resurrecting an old thread but i would love to know how this turned out. I have been looking at the champion 3 row 24" But i see you returned yours. What did you end up going with? How did it turn out? Fans? I appreciate any help you can give me.

 

Found a radiator that will fit under the lip of the core support, so it's on the way here.

If it does fit, then I will trim the opening just a bit more so the new radiator can mount flush to the front of the support (will probably leave a small gap and use some rubber trim to fill that gap). Figured it was easier to buy a new one that fits in the space instead of trying to fill in the gap that's there now. I can also use the extra room for whatever fan setup I go with.

Once I know it all fits, I'll put the Champion radiator up for sale and someone will get a screaming deal on it.

Will hopefully post better progress this weekend.

 

This is how I did mine, cut the "raised lip" off, (make round cuts as opposed to square, less prone to cracking), welded some tabs to the tank. Used a Ford Ranger door weather strip around the opening and a Taurus Fan. Radiator sits on the frame rails from side to side. Cap is a little under the core support but easy to get off. Temps never get above 180-185* in the hottest days in traffic.


Strong enough to suck paper to the grill

 

That's a cross flow, didn't know they made a cross flow to fit an early Mustang.

 

Great looking install...what's the part number for the radiator you used?
I'm trying to keep my battery in the engine bay...it looks like you moved yours to the trunk.

 

Its not a mustang specific radiator. Its a universal Summit brand (Northern). I just measured the maximum width between the frame rails and matched the inlet/outlet.


With the blower, the battery wouldn't fit anyway. But that is gone now and a turbo in its place.



I think this is the one I used, its a 22X19 core.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380328/overview/

 

Its not a mustang specific radiator. Its a universal Summit brand (Northern). I just measured the maximum width between the frame rails and matched the inlet/outlet.

+1. There's no reason it has to be a Mustang specific radiator unless your into keeping a stock appearance. I have a custom made double crossflow aluminum radiator in my 65. It was locally made, solidly constructed and cheap compared to national brands.

 

You sick of my questions on this topic yet? I'm tired of my indecisiveness too.

Got the other radiator I ordered. Summit's measurements on the website were off. Their Overall Height measurement didn't include the radiator cap mount (whatever that part is).

So it looks like this:

I would have to clearance for the cap and probably go about 3/4 of the way in with a circle cut.

I could keep the battery in the engine bay.

But I'm really digging the cleaner look of Iskwezm's car above. But the battery would move to the trunk. No big deal because I'm putting the spare on the rear-seat-delete shelf and since I'm doing a restomod, don't really care about the lack of originality. This summit radiator looks like it would work for my application too:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380428/overview/


What would you do?

 

What would you do?

I'd cut a scallop into the horizontal leg of the core support and maybe use a piece of sheet metal to form a doubler that would support the cut out section, depending on how deep you have to make the cut. If the cut is only 1/4' or so deep I wouldn't worry about it but if you have to go deeper I'd add the doubler.

When you put the radiator cap on are the "ears" on the cap perpendicular to the centerline of the car and parallel to the core support? That would look OK to me.

 

The top of the core support is 1 1/2" wide. I'd need to go about 3/4", so half-way through.

The other reason I wanted the radiator under the core support is so I can get it close to flush with the face of the core support and have more room for a fan & shroud.

 

What fan setup did you use? Thanks!

 

I think this one fits better. It's a BeCool part number 35010. 16" x 24" core with 2 rows of 1" tubes.

I still have to trim the core support, but not as much and I'm a better spot where it won't flex as much.

It sits just above the frame rails with it about 3" above the strut rod braces.

I may see about moving it away from the support a bit to raise it up just a bit more. Otherwise I will have to weld in a thin piece along the top of the core support (the core opening is just a bit too big and there's a small gap along the top)


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