Id be shocked if the steering column is the culprit. but if you have a rag joint, remove it. This separates the column from the steering box. The steering wheel should spin with little to no resistance. If it doesnt spin easily, its probably time to remove the column and go through it.

 

If I was going to suspect something it would be the ball joints, idler arm bushing or lack of hydraulic pressure somewhere in the system.

 

did this prob occur AFTER the borg ps was installed?

no front end alignment since.

there is a different alignment for p/s cars i think.

tight feeling is the box if it was ok prior.

 

Didn't add a borg system. Factory bendix p/s system.
Had a front end alignment soon after. Swap bar end link bushings were shot so those are being replaced but I don't think those would be the cause for my issues.
Not sure if the box was any good prior since I never drove the car prior since it was being restore and the previous owner who was doing the resto is no longer living.
All I know now is the steering is tight (which I thought was good) and wheel doesn't want to return back to center after turning.

 

I thought I posted this earlier but it must not have been submitted.

On my 67 Fastack
A few months back I bought a new power steering system from Chocko.
Got it installed not long ago from a local guy. It was running and working but the hoses were still close to the exhaust manifold and the steering felt really tight and not returning to center like it should when driving.

The car is now at the Mustang Farm here in GA. Main reason for this was the swap from a 3spd to a T5. While there I asked Lee to check out the p/s.
He realized my exhaust manifolds are 289 HiPo like ones. This is the main issue why the hoses are getting too close to the exhaust, the bracket with the rubber grommet that the hoses go thru couldn't be installed properly. Lee finally thinks he got a hose that will suffice. He said the steering it way too tight tho. He thought the box might not be adjust properly but he checked that and it is set right. So he thinks something is wrong with the column now.
My car came from the factory with tilt steering and it still has the column.
Have others run into this issue before where the steering is way too tight and the steering won't return to center when driving after a turn?

Any suggestions what to check next?

Thanks for the help.

Adding more positive Caster my help with the steering wheel returning to center.

 

Are you saying that the steering is "tight" as in no play, or the steering is "tight" as in it's hard to move?

You can further isolate the problem, if it's too hard to move by popping the tie rods from the spindles and moving the spindle through it's arc by hand.

If it's just the "return to center" issue, more caster will help (as in 3+*) as will the correct idler arm with elastomer bushing.

 

Pretty much both...there is no play....which I think is good...but the wheel is much harder to turn than it should be for a p/s car and when you do drive it when you turn the wheels stays turned and doesn't cycle back to center. The pump is also making more noise than it should which makes me there it is working too hard (brand new pump from Advance Auto). I'll share all this info with Lee who is working on the car.

 

Following up to this post...finally got around to replacing my power steering pump with another one from local store...it is much quieter now...so that is good.
Still having an issue where the steering doesn't return to center when driving.
I took it to local alignment shop today and they said the alignment was out and they adjusted it but still won't return to center. These are the specs they gave me on the alignment machine print out.

Thoughts?

Prior to adjustment:
Left front
camber 0.8
caster -0.4
toe 0.05

Right front
camber 0.2
caster 1.7
toe 0.07

Total toe -0.79
Steer ahead -0.01

After adjustment
Left front
camber 0.7
caster -0.4
toe 0.20

Total toe 0.39
Steer ahead 0.01
Right front
camber 0.3
caster 0.1
toe 0.19

 

Got it installed not long ago from a local guy. It was running and working but the hoses were still close to the exhaust manifold and the steering felt really tight and not returning to center like it should when driving.

He realized my exhaust manifolds are 289 HiPo like ones. This is the main issue why the hoses are getting too close to the exhaust, the bracket with the rubber grommet that the hoses go thru couldn't be installed properly.

He's [Mustang Farm] not so familiar as he should be with Mustangs. The 67 K code PS hoses were not routed on top of the motor mount like A and C code cars. They were routed below the mount, similarly to S code cars. He should know this. If you had told Choko about your manifolds, he would have supplied the correct hoses and hose bracket.

This is what you need-

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He's [Mustang Farm] not so familiar as he should be with Mustangs. The 67 K code PS hoses were not routed on top of the motor mount like A and C code cars. They were routed below the mount, similarly to S code cars. He should know this. If you had told Choko about your manifolds, he would have supplied the correct hoses and hose bracket.

When I ordered the kit from Chocko I didn't know the car had HiPo exhaust manifolds on it.
I had also told Chock I didn't need the hoses that attached to the pump since I thought I'd reuse my old ones.

Do you think my not returning to center issue has anything to do with the hoses and routing? The steering moves freely and turns well but when driving there is no return to center like it should.

 

Looks like you have virtually no caster which would cause it not to return. Not familiar with '67s but I believe caster should be at least +2.5 or so on a power steering car.

On my '66, I have +1.7 on both sides. Manual steer car and it returns with a snap. But my car is a bit hard to steer with 215/60 tires and a small-ish Motolita wheel and 16:1 box.

More caster will center the wheel easier after turning but the flip side is it'll be harder to steer.

Greg Z

 

I had a 94 Mustang Cobra that would not return to center like you describe.
It took replacing a defective steering rack to correct it.
Just throwing that out there.

 

I had the Mustang Farm unhook the steering column in the past and was told it spun loose and freely. I hope it isn't the steering column b/c it is a tilt away set up!
Next weekend I'll try to take it back to the alignment shop and see if they can add the caster like everyone has suggested. I told them when I bought it in it needed a bunch...guess they didn't listen.

 

Have them shoot for a MINIMUM of +2* caster. With power steering you can easily go to +3*.

 

Lee recommended a shop in Kennesaw that I went to. Kid there knew how to work with the shims and took his time.

 

I hope I don't have to go to Kennesaw to get this steering return to center issue resolved! Seems like I'm been working on this power steering and return to center issue for a long time now!

 

As others have said you need way more Caster. I have +3 on a manual steering car. You could go higher with PS. I would even shoot for some negative camber ie -0.5 to 0. I bet the shop went with 1967 specs, not the best.

 

Maybe you have the wrong idler arm. IIRC the Manual vs Power Steering versions are different. Something about more force on the rubber bushing to help it back to center on the PS version.

 

The arms are definitely different because of the way they need to connect
to either the manual drag link or P/S setup. It isn't the same "bushing"
situation as with the 65/66 cars.

The need for cranking in more positive caster is readily apparent on 67-up
P/S cars. I'd run at least 3 degrees if it were my car.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

Well, the saga continues!!
The local shop replaced the strut rods and set the alignment to the Shelby specs 22GT advised to use...+2 caster.
They said there is no difference in the return to center.
To recap...everything is new from Chocko except the pump which I got new locally.
I think I'm just gonna have to take it to Gordon's Restorations in Dallas, GA and pay them to get this figured out.
At this point I've spent over $1K in parts and labor trying to get this power steering working right! Can't drive the car till it is right.

 

Did you mess with the steering box? Tightening the screw down too much on that could cause the "too tight" issue and make it harder to return to center. It'll also destroy the bearings in the steering box.

Sometimes people mess with it to get rid of play in the steering of a worn out box.

Side note. My car had original end links and idler arm and factory power steering. It wouldn't go to center either (but tons of slop). Did an alignment and "make it new" grab a trak steering kit and it's much better now.

 

I believe it was Bartl who brought up the ball joints as something to look at many posts ago. I didn't see them mentioned again. Are they also the original like the other parts, or have they been recently replaced? They are an important part of the steering system.

 

Sounds like there's bind somewhere. Gordon's a good guy, also Patrick Kelly who's in Hiram. He's no longer in the business, working and going to school, but an excellent diagnostician (such a word?). He may take it on. I'll pm his number to you.

Greg Z

 

I would have to think, since stock type of PS, that you have a control valve problem. Whether it's new or not, on a PS system it would be my suspect.

 

Thanks guys for all the thoughts. I will update again as I know more!

 

Reading through this thread, I gather the OP did not replace the steering box. Dollars to doughnuts, it's the factory box with over 200,000 miles on it. It may be adjusted properly. But that doesn't mean it isn't completely shot. I can't be certain this is the problem, but I would have replaced the steering box. (Don't throw out the old box. It's worth $80 as a core.)

Years ago my daily driver was a 1969 Cougar with factory power steering. I rebuilt the front suspension and did not have any problems with the steering being tight or with the wheels not wanting to return to center. In fact, I could steer that car with one finger. So, I'm thinking there's definitely something wrong here. (That cougar had the same power steering setup as the OP's car.)

 

I spoke to Patrick Kelly and he too thinks it is probably something with the steering box or something in the suspension that is worn or binding up.
I am gonna do some more checking of components and then if not take it to a classic Mustang specific shop and have them get it right. I've spent too much time on this and have other cars to work on...just want this one steering right so I can move onto the next project on this car!

 

Thanks for the update. Still light on the castor, though.

 

Have them back off the strut rod adjustment first, then pull the upper control arms and see if the shafts are first centered in the bushings, then try to spin them one turn toward the front (to push the UCA a bit rearward), then stack 1/4" of shims under each front bolt and go through the process again.

I didn't re-read the thread again, but do you have a) shock tower reinforcements (or cracks), b) export brace, c) Monte Carlo Bar?

Also, do you have '67 spindles?

If everything is as it should be, I'd be interested to know the results of a SAI check (Steering Axis Inclination) for both sides.... perhaps both spindles are bent.

 

Bartl,

Stock 67 GT Fastback with correct export brace. When I got the car it didn't have any export bracing and I recently put 1 piece Drake export brace on.

The next shop I take it to I'll bring your info. I'm gonna try a suspension and handling speciality place next!

IF I get a new steering box, based on looking in the Mustangs Unlimited catalog it seems there are a few types if I go with Flaming River. Can someone suggest which one I need?

 

Just finished up a Mustang with this issue.
A restored 1967,new front suspension,new steering linkeage, reman power cylinder and reman steering box.
Steered "heavy" no return to center.
Found the column tube wasn't slid down onto the steering gear far enough and the steering wheel was rubbing on the tube. Loosened the strap nuts on the dash support and slid the tube down 1/8".
Drives much better now.
Did all the checks and set alignment as recommended.
Found by process of elimination.