hot spot are near impossible to machine out . and the teeth are pretty bad . Time for a new flywheel

 

That ring gear has been flipped over on that flywheel. The wear side should be the front of the flywheel (non clutch side)

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Ditto on the flywheel. I'd stick with the tried-and-true Borg & Beck pressure plate and keep that excellent greasable release bearing if it shows no wear.
Differential is an open unit... Equa-Lok will have recessed heads on the ring gear bolts. Tooth count should be stamped on ring gear. There are 2 different combinations of 3.00 gear sets, one with a 7-3/4 inch ring gear and one with an 8 inch ring gear.
6-bolt bellhousing after Aug '64.

 

Thats what I was thinking. But both wheels turn the same direction but you can hold one wheel still while turning the other. Is it possible that I have some other kind of limited slip?

hot spot are near impossible to machine out . and the teeth are pretty bad . Time for a new flywheel

Not ideal but much easier.

That ring gear has been flipped over on that flywheel. The wear side should be the front of the flywheel (non clutch side)

Didn't even know that was possible 🤪. If that's the case, what should I do to guarantee good engagement with my new flywheel?

 

Your feet are worth a new flywheel! I'm using a PRW flywheel. It's a SFI rated billet wheel. It uses a bolt on balance weight so you can use it on any engine balance. It's also drilled for ALL PP's, SAE and Metric with dowels.

As for your differential, it looks like a open differential case. A LS case, it's relieved around the ring gear bolts, not flat. However to make a poor man's LS out of a open, guys would add extra cup washers at the spider gears. This works.....for a little while.

 

I've owned the car for a long time. These things are as they were when I bought it. I daily drove it for about 5 years and it's been sitting in storage from then. So things like the ring gear and the modified open diff have been this way for a long time and more than slightly used.

 

The flywheel isn't as bad as you think it looks. The "swirl" marks are left from the last time it was reground. Given that you can still see so much of them I would give it a bit of a go over with Scotchbrite and reuse it. Those hotspots WILL machine off on a proper flywheel grinding machine. I'd say it would clean up with less than a half a thousandth and take longer to mount on the machine than to turn. IE, hardly worth the bother. My concern would only be for how much has already been removed. Resurfacing actually removes very little material on non-racing passenger vehicles but how many times has it been done if it's over 55 years old?

If you're OK with how the FRONT side of the flywheel teeth look you can keep it. Hard to see but it appears to have some wear to my eye. Ring gears aren't at all difficult to replace and aren't expensive.

Rule of thumb is that on Traction-Loc differentials the bolts that hold the big gear are recessed in "pockets" on the assembly (IE, you'd have to take them loose with a socket) and the bolts on a plain "open" type rear are on a flat surface. You could use a wrench on them. This is what I see in your picture, an open rear. No limited slip.

 

That looks like a 5 bolt bell housing. The transmission bolt pattern is the early narrow ear toploader pattern. Obviously not original engine in a 66. Also never seen the two piece block plate on a stick shift car.

 

Well y'all prompted me to have a look. Turns out it's a 64 289.

Definitely 5 bolt.

Transmission tag of no value.

I guess the main question now is when ordering parts should I specifically look for a 64 289 or are all the 289 parts interchangeable? Specifically things like a rear main seal that I need. The car Vin is a 66 A code.

Any companies sell the t5 bellhousing adapter to fit 5 and 6 bolt? Love to just swap parts if I ever get a newer/A code block.

The flywheel teeth are worn on the front too. I think I'll just go with a new one with both sets of holes. Worth it to upgrade to a newer starter with an integrated solenoid while I'm in here?

Any other things I should consider I'm all ears.

 

I was converted to using PMGR starters years ago. Now I will use no other, period.