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The Ultimate Kill Switch?

13K views 13 replies 13 participants last post by  Blues Power  
#1 ·
A determined thief can always find a way to steal your car, especially one with a tow truck, but this method will be very difficult to defeat.
As usual I have trouble posting things here because of the upload limits. The following images are all JPGs. It takes a great deal of work to get a CAD drawing into a JPG format, and still have it legible. These may just fit that description, but if you still have trouble they are available in PDF format, which is much better, especially for printing. Message me and I can send them to you.
Page 1 shows three ways to put a kill switch in the ignition. Page 2 shows three ways to put one in the fuel system, and page 3 shows what I find to be the most stealthy kill switch.
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This shows my keys with the magnets attached to the ring. The magnetic reed switch is to the right. It is small but its specs are more than adequate for the job.
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This shows one of the magnets. They are sold in pairs and intended as a jewelry catch. It has a small hole through the axis and a larger one part way down on the other side. Here it is attached with 30 lb. monofilament line. The knot is pulled back into the large diameter hole. The loop on the end makes it easy to separate from the other magnet. These are very powerful for their size. If you don’t want them on your key chain you could always stick it to steel somewhere in the car- it will never move, but I like to remove it from the vehicle as it is a sort of key.
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This is a demonstration of how well the magnet and reed work. The reed switch is Scotch taped to the back side of an easily available plastic trim piece, and an ohmmeter is connected to each side. The magnet is taped to the ohmmeter and supported by the monofilament. It is positioned about 1/2” away from the trim, and has successfully closed the reed switch. As you can see on the ohmmeter, the reed switch is closed and has 14.6 ohms. The resistance is a little high but probably due to my ratty old alligator clips. Even at this resistance it is more than able to operate the relay previously mentioned on page 3.
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#2 ·
A friend put the "ultimate" style in his Camaro years ago, hooked to a starter interrupt. It tickles him to give someone the keys and let them try to steal his car. I had a shot and even knowing what he had done and having the magnet in my hand I still couldn't do it. He sort of flings himself into the car with the keys in his hand and you can't really tell he's doing anything at all. My last guess was maybe in the head rest of the seat but he'll never tell.

I was impressed but I'm not much on adding any complications that could possibly prevent me from driving my own car. If I were going to, the Ultimate would surely be the way I'd go though. (NICE diagrams!)
 
#8 ·
I have my battery in the trunk and have a Pertronix Ignitor 3 installed. When I moved near downtown Los Angeles, I decided I needed to install some form of protection, as minimal as it may be. Since my apartment complex had a very low ceiling underground parking garage, I wasn't too worried about it being stolen by a tow, I was more worried about it being driven away in the middle of the night. So when I parked I had a car cover with lock, a hood pin lock (luggage wire lock), wheel lock, my remote kill switch, and LoJack window stickers (which were only a ruse). These coupled with my battery in the trunk, I figured this was enough deterrents/impediments.

For my remote kill switch, I found this $30 wireless light bar relay kit. I liked it since it supports 300 watts, includes 9-feet of wiring to cut to fit, and a remote with 180-ft range.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073S6PF11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the extra wire length to hide the relay and wireless module up above the glove box, out of sight. I also took the remote apart to cut off the rubber dowels which operated the two middle flash options and to paint over the silly logo. Been using this setup for over 2 years without issue. I did buy a spare kit in-case the parts fail but haven't had any issues.

The added benefit with this remote kill switch is protection against car jacking. I usually keep the remote hooked to my belt when driving so if someone tries to pull me out of the car, I'll be able to kill it when they try to drive away.

There are obviously ways around all these delays but I'd be pissed if my car was stolen and I didn't at least try to slow the thief down.
 

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#13 ·
I also took the remote apart to cut off the rubber dowels which operated the two middle flash options...
OT here but another way of defeating specific remote functions without permanent damage is to place a tiny square of Scotch Magic Brand tape right over the circuit grid that the conductive "dowel" makes contact to. Completely reversible if need be.

John
 
#11 ·
I added a switch in the signal path for the clutch safety circuit. I placed the switch in a well hidden place under the dash. The only way you were going to find the switch was either with a mirror or by sticking your head under there and looking up. The guy I sold the car too could not find it even though I told him where it was located. Once he grabbed a mirror, it still took him a while to find it. With the switch open, you can hot wire the car but it won't make a difference. A simple way to get a little peace of mind. I also installed a Blue Tooth TrackR device. It piggy backs off cell phones with Blue Tooth enabled. It worked with the app giving the location of the car within about 50 feet.

I do like the magnetic reed switch, very clever as this is the first time I have seen it mentioned.
 
#12 ·
I installed a keyless start system on my 02 vrod when I owned it, it was awesome. It was from https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/ and worked fantastic. I plan on adding a similar system to my 68. I am putting this button in the place of the stock ignition switch. My starter solenoid will be hidden and my hood latch locked.
 

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#14 ·
back in the day i had a micro switch in the back of the ash tray with a second momentary switch
hidden under the dash.. Ash tray open a crack no start. close it, press the momentary, turn the key it starts.

I came back from an 8 month deployment in the navy and had forgot all out it ash try part.

had to rip the whole car apart until i had my Eureka moment.

now i have no such things. if they want it that bad come and get it.

sometimes i think they'd do me a favor.