[lunasea6]

Hey Y'all,

Gut feeling is that it makes the pedal action a lot better...but read a few conflicting views. Putting my project back together and not excited about taking the pedal mount out to install the spring. (removing master cylinder etc). I've searched this site and all I located was about the z bar springs (which are installed).

Question: How necessary is it in a 6cyl 3spd 67? How easy is it to install without removing the assembly?

With that said, the guage cluster is out but I've already bled out the brakes. I've read about using washers to expand the spring enough to install (sounds like a minor pita too...).

Opinions...

 

[IDSRVIT]

Hey Y'all,

Gut feeling is that it makes the pedal action a lot better...but read a few conflicting views. Putting my project back together and not excited about taking the pedal mount out to install the spring. (removing master cylinder etc). I've searched this site and all I located was about the z bar springs (which are installed).

Question: How necessary is it in a 6cyl 3spd 67? How easy is it to install without removing the assembly?

With that said, the guage cluster is out but I've already bled out the brakes. I've read about using washers to expand the spring enough to install (sounds like a minor pita too...).

Opinions...

I guess my 2 cents would be if you want your pedal to consistently return then the spring is required. If you're okay with erratic pedal return or no return then leave the spring out. Ford designed it in for a reason.

Bleeding the brakes is pretty simple with the right tools so that should not be a deterrent.

 

[awhtx]

I assume you are asking about the large clutch assist (not return) spring under the dash. I don't know why you're having trouble with it because all you need to do is push the clutch pedal down a little bit and the spring unhooks. No need to remove the master cylinder or anything. If you have a Long style pressure plate with 3 fingers you need it. If you have a diaphragm style pressure plate you don't need it.

 

[lunasea6]

Yes, the spring under the dash attached to the clutch pedal. Purchased my car as a project and it didn't come with it and have heard it is quite difficult to install without removing the assy. (I like the skin on my knuckles).

With that said, I just ordered the spring and insulators from NPD along with some other necessary items for other projects. And another $20 goes into the project!

 

[coolblue65]

I guess my 2 cents would be if you want your pedal to consistently return then the spring is required. If you're okay with erratic pedal return or no return then leave the spring out. Ford designed it in for a reason.

I disagree with this statement completely, the spring under the dash is helper spring to bring the pedal down, NOT to help it return up. It was there for the old heavy 3 long finger clutches and to make a light feel. In fact that spring is strong enough that it can actually hold your pedal down if your pedal is pushed all the way in with modern clutches- I have experienced it directly. That also led me to remove the clutch spring completely and have no ill effects, no erratic pedal return (in fact it returns better). The only downside would be a slightly firmer pedal feel but that is a non-issue as it is still plenty light.

So the question to the OP is how firm is your clutch now (or before you took it apart)? You can certainly just go ahead and not install it first and then if you think you need it later put it in. It is a bit of PITA but not horrible to install or remove, you just need to know the trick.

 

[Crash]

That spring does two things - it both assists with pedal effort and it returns the pedal to the top position. It does this because of how it's positioned and so forth. There's a break-over point. "This side" of that point, the spring is pulling the pedal upward. "That side" it's pushing the pedal downward. You must have your linkage set so that full engagement occurs "this side" of the break-over point, otherwise the spring will hold the pedal against the clutch. I would retain this spring regardless of the clutch used.

This constant load from a heavy spring contributes to the wear on the bushings in the pedal support. You may not realize it, but yours are probably shot, and arguably should be repaired as part of this project. There's a kit out there that replaces the plastic bushings with steel (with roller bearings, I think). I don't know, but installation of this kit may require removal of the pedal support bracket.

I dealt with this MANY years ago in a '68 I had with a 3-speed. I removed the spring using a tool I made out of a turnbuckle. They're usually used to apply tension to cables, but I used mine as a spreader. I modified the "hooks" so that they would fit the spring and then turned the collar to expand the spring until it could be unhooked from the pedal. For safety reasons, you should use the stoutest one that will fit. It was pretty tedious, as I recall, but it worked just fine. "They" might make a better tool for that job, today.

 

[sixtysevenGTconv]

Now to add, for those of us that installed a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, they tell you to remove the "clutch pedal assist spring". I have no spring installed, works nice.

 

[awhtx]

Thanks to Glazier/Nolan and 22GT for this tutorial. NO exotic tools required.

http://mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Clutch Assist Spring Removal and Installation.pdf

 

[drummingrocks]

Thanks to Glazier/Nolan and 22GT for this tutorial. NO exotic tools required.

http://mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Clutch Assist Spring Removal and Installation.pdf

I was wondering. I've only done '65-66s, so I didn't say anything. But I've never had to have any kind of special tools to install the assist spring. Remove the bracket and rubber stopper for the clutch pedal, and it will pull up closer to the bottom of the dash. Once the pedal is pulled up in that position, you can put the spring in with your fingers. Push the pedal back down, reinstall the bracket and stopper, and you're done.

 

[lunasea6]

Perfect, this helps me a lot. I put new bushings in the pedals when I re-assembled the pedal assy. I purchased the car dis-assembled and in a ton of boxes. Nothing labeled so some of the parts are a bit of a mystery, trying not to put parts in the wrong spots is a little chore now that I'm down to the short rows of getting her to fire up.

Old three long finger clutch. Car hasn't been on the road since ~'81. Many new parts, welding, body work, rebuilt engine etc...Have the Ford and Chilton but there are some vague items like this. I'll get in installed and see how it goes.

For Z Bar springs. I have one going to the clutch fork (Assuming it is just to maintain the clutch actuator arm in the fork), and one gong from the z bar to the firewall (via a spring bracket). I've read accounts that some have a spring going from the Zbar to the shock tower/suspension area. Read a post on here that is is the same size spring that goes zbar to firewall...is this correct?

 

[Crash]

I dealt with this MANY years ago in a '68 I had with a 3-speed. I removed the spring using a tool I made out of a turnbuckle. They're usually used to apply tension to cables, but I used mine as a spreader. I modified the "hooks" so that they would fit the spring and then turned the collar to expand the spring until it could be unhooked from the pedal. For safety reasons, you should use the stoutest one that will fit. It was pretty tedious, as I recall, but it worked just fine. "They" might make a better tool for that job, today.

I retract my advice

When I did this almost 40 years ago, I didn't have the benefit of a shop manual, let alone the internet!

 

[22GT]

I was wondering. I've only done '65-66s, so I didn't say anything. But I've never had to have any kind of special tools to install the assist spring. Remove the bracket and rubber stopper for the clutch pedal, and it will pull up closer to the bottom of the dash. Once the pedal is pulled up in that position, you can put the spring in with your fingers. Push the pedal back down, reinstall the bracket and stopper, and you're done.

That, with more detail, is what the Barn link says. Of course, with 67-68, the up-limit stop is a permanent part of the pedal bracket, so you have to remove the retaining clip from the pedal shaft and slide the pedal slightly to the left to clear the up-stop. 69-73 should be similar, except they use a compression spring rather than a tension spring.

Bottom line is doing it that way is easy and safe, no need to worry about skinned knuckles or putting your eye out.

 

[awhtx]

Bottom line is doing it that way is easy and safe, no need to worry about skinned knuckles or putting your eye out.

That's a good thing considering I only have one functioning eye remaining!

 

[2nd 66]

For what it's worth I have a diaphragm clutch and still retain the "assist spring"

 

[passthrough]

For what it's worth I have a diaphragm clutch and still retain the "assist spring"

Me too...No problems here. Works just like I would expect.


In and For Christ,
Glen

 

[IDSRVIT]

I disagree with this statement completely, the spring under the dash is helper spring to bring the pedal down, NOT to help it return up. It was there for the old heavy 3 long finger clutches and to make a light feel. In fact that spring is strong enough that it can actually hold your pedal down if your pedal is pushed all the way in with modern clutches- I have experienced it directly. That also led me to remove the clutch spring completely and have no ill effects, no erratic pedal return (in fact it returns better). The only downside would be a slightly firmer pedal feel but that is a non-issue as it is still plenty light.

So the question to the OP is how firm is your clutch now (or before you took it apart)? You can certainly just go ahead and not install it first and then if you think you need it later put it in. It is a bit of PITA but not horrible to install or remove, you just need to know the trick.

The spring under the dash DOES help the pedal return to the correct position depending upon your pressure plate set up.

 

[22GT]

The spring pulls down in the lower 3/4 of its travel, and pulls up the last 1/4 of upward travel. This is a function of the pedal and spring geometry, regardless of the clutch type.

 

[IndyFive-O]

That, with more detail, is what the Barn link says. Of course, with 67-68, the up-limit stop is a permanent part of the pedal bracket, so you have to remove the retaining clip from the pedal shaft and slide the pedal slightly to the left to clear the up-stop. 69-73 should be similar, except they use a compression spring rather than a tension spring.

Bottom line is doing it that way is easy and safe, no need to worry about skinned knuckles or putting your eye out.

Has anyone actually tried doing this on a 67-68? Unclipping the pedal and sliding it to the side to avoid hitting the permanent pedal stop? Were you successful?

 

[Moodster]

Has anyone actually tried doing this on a 67-68? Unclipping the pedal and sliding it to the side to avoid hitting the permanent pedal stop? Were you successful?

I haven't tried this on a 67-68 however the pdf said a 69 is similar and I can tell you that is definitely the way to do it on a 69.

david

 

[coolblue65]

Has anyone actually tried doing this on a 67-68? Unclipping the pedal and sliding it to the side to avoid hitting the permanent pedal stop? Were you successful?

Not a '67, but I used that method on my '65 to remove my spring and it worked fine.