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Voltage regulator question

10K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  67ford!  
#1 ·
My car often fails to start and cranks a lot before it starts. I k ow a bad voltage regulator will cause that. So I had my voltage regulator tested and it failed. So I replaced it and it still failed. I’m not that advanced of a mechanic but any idea why it would still fail after replacing it with a new one?
 
#4 ·
The OEM "Points type" Ford Voltage Regulators are literally junk by today's standards. They suffer from Overloads, Voltage drops, insufficient voltage or insufficient charging and so forth, and to add, If you are not using an Original Unrebuilt OEM Autolite Alternator with it, You are literally wasting your time as a newly rebuilt Alternator will literally "Fry" the Original 1960's-1970's Points type Voltage Regulators as they are Re-built to Post-1980 Standards. What to do?!? Well, There is a good answer, You have to upgrade your Voltage Regulator to a 1980's-Early 1990's Motorcraft "Solid State" unit. This solves pretty much all of your charging issues and you'll be literally humming along for the next few decades in your classic stang. Ditch the OEM Points type Voltage Regulator and go with one of these units below...and your charging and voltage problems will disappear...

The best units are Motorcraft units that can be bought from NPD or Rockauto.com , but Standard Motor Parts or their (Bluestreak) are also acceptable. All the rest are pretty much junk and would not trust any other brands.. Prices will range from $25 to $60 depending on which part you buy....but they are what you need to get your Ford Charging under control. It's pretty much been known for decades in Classic Ford circles as everyone has always had the same complaints (issues)... The story is pretty much the same on Ford Starter Solenoids, but don't get me started on that one...That's for another thread for another day...and has been covered in the archives in years past.

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Actually, I think if you have a bad Voltage Regulator, I think it will turn over, The starter motor will work, and turn over, but It (The engine) just won't run... It's been quite awhile since I've disconnected one while running.. just going by memory...

Tony K.
 
#7 ·
Tony is right about the VR. You can take the voltage regulator off the car and throw it into the woods, and the car should still start right up. The voltage regulator has nothing to do with starting, or running. It charges the battery, with the alternator.

I have a Motorcraft voltage regulator I scrounged off a wreck 25 years ago. Works perfectly.
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
This type would replace the orig mechanical relay style points.
NPD does also sell just the old correct looking covers if you want to switch for looks.
VOLTAGE REGULATOR, ALTERNATOR - #10316-4A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)
few options,:
Product Search - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)
Aside from going with or without the period correct covers will the Motorcraft #10316-7A internals be the same as a Standard GR-540-B since their both the newer solid state electronic type ?
 
#18 ·
I dunno why it wouldn't unless the mounting ear may be a little different. The wiring harness should be the same 4-tab plastic push-on. Unplug your battery, take off the old one and take it with you to the store. If it matches up, run with it. Or buy the more expensive reproduction.