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What engine oil for my 68 coupe, 289?

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23K views 37 replies 14 participants last post by  zray  
#1 ·
So I know this is an exhausted topic, and I did search the archives. However I had my own question about it. I came across this post

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/612044-what-type-engine-oil-my-68-a.html

And I like the sound of the Valvoline VR1 racing oil. But I notice there are two types of this oil? Such as...http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-679083-Synthetic-Racing-Formula/dp/B002ZSM2B0/ref=pd_sbs_263_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=31jz1jxiRXL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR105%2C160_&refRID=12Q4NQ3YVJA868JYAR20 and ... http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV205-6PK-10W-30-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FMK2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459964588&sr=8-2&keywords=valvoline+vr1+racing+oil Is one just conventional and one synthetic? Or are there other differences? I had heard that one is good for only drag, while the other is street/drag, with better ZDDP levels? Feel free to correct me, and throw in what you would recommend running. I lean towards a synthetic oil from all my research, but also have never used synthetic before so? :)

68 coupe, 289, supposably rebuilt motor than came out of a 70's ford, put in there about 3 years ago, so not alot of miles on the rebuild. Would lean towards agreeing it's a rebuilt motor by how it looks and runs... Fire away guys! (newbie by the way, so thorough explanations are not a bad thing to me!)
 
#2 ·
What kind of cam do you have in the motor? I always thought you wanted a different oil for a flat tappet cam vs. a modern roller cam.

If it really is a 3 year rebuild and you have a roller cam, then I'd think you don't need anything special as far as oil goes. Just a decent one you can pickup at any parts store.
 
#3 ·
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#5 · (Edited)
Nothing wrong with Brad Penn, Royal Purple or Valvoline VR-1. While VR-1 is available in conventional or synthetic, the "two types" you typically hear about are the highway and off road/track versions. The off road/track version doesn't have detergents in it which you need for a street car.

As yet another suggestion, I have a Jeep with a flat tappet cam and I run this stuff:

Shell Rotella Full Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil, 1 gal. - Walmart.com

It's a diesel oil and has plenty of zinc for a flat tappet cam. However, unlike other diesel oils, the T6 is a "5W" rather than a "15W". A 15W oil is less than optimal for a gasoline engine as it doesn't provide much protection during cold starts. If you live in a warm climate, it would likely be fine. But with a 5W, you're good down to temperatures well below where you'd likely be starting your classic Mustang.
 
#14 ·
Here's the problem with Rotella....and other Diesel Oils that are, like Rotella, rated CF-4.... Yes, CF-4 oils have around 1,100ppm of ZDDP HOWEVER, because they are diesel oils they have a VERY HIGH detergent package to handle the soot in diesel combustion byproducts. Since ZDDP is sacrificial, the detergent package actually "scrubs" the ZDDP from the wear surfaces faster than in a gasoline engine motor oil so the effective protection will be LESS than a gas engine oil with the same 1,100ppm ZDDP level.:yoho:
 
#7 ·
I've always understood that in an older engine that has seem many miles with non-synthetic standard oil, you should NOT switch over to synthetic oil. You will see many oil leaks if you do. I've always been partial to Pennzoil.
 
#10 ·
Mostly myth. If the only thing keeping your engine from leaking is gunked up crud, synthetic oil may clean said crud and then cause a leak. Otherwise, not so much.

For those who may not be aware, most modern engine oils have very little ZDDP/zinc because newer engines have roller cams and don't need it. The ZDDP/zinc can also poison catalytic converters. Older cars with flat tappets really should run oil with more ZDDP/zinc to protect the cam. Thus, running whatever grabs you on the shelf is less than optimal.
 
#15 ·
All of my flat tappet engines are high mileage or relatively low performance with factory valvetrains and hydraulic lifters so I just run whatever is cheapest between Delo400/Delvac1300/Rotella T5 in them. If I had a higher performance solid flat motor I'd pay more attention to the zinc and phosphorus levels and really follow Bartl's recommendations as he's clearly researched it (or I'd dump zddp additives in with M1 or T6 and find other stuff to worry about, also remember hearing the top of the line pennzoil is supposed to be favorable). I use Rotella T6 in all my newer or high performance cars and motorcycles. Some of the mobil1 oils are better than the others but I can never remember which ones. I ran M1 in my BMWs for years but switched them over to T6 as well because it has no measurable consumption and I've been happy with T6 and I just have 5 gallons come every 6 months from Amazon. My biggest concern is shearing the VII packages in my motorcycles so I still stick to the every other thousand plan on those give or take. I should probably do an analysis to get a ball park but I just don't care like I used to.
 
#17 ·
racing car - street car


The difference in running mode is staggering.


+1 on pprince and zrays comments. Good quality "cheap and old school" oil will work fine in an older engine.


Ran straight 30 weight for decades, the S codes surprisingly did not seize, implode, explode, or melt. Pretty much basic 10W30 since straight 30W got hard to find (do take a look at ZDPP levels, not hard to find the right content) and similar results...
 
#20 ·
Don't forget that although the name may remain the same, the formulation will change to meet every new API classification. What was Mobil1 API-SM in 2008 isn't the same as Mobil1 API-SN in 2011, or today, nor will it be API-SP when those standards are established. It's not that I'm not a fan of Mobil1, either...that's what goes in both my daily drivers and has since they came from the factory.
 
#21 ·
oil

Bart, you're entirely correct about the names remaining but the stuff inside not being as good. Lots of guys used to use Delvac or Delo or Rotella. And for awhile, they were okay. But now that diesels come from the factory with a tank full of piss ( don't understand how that works, but thats what DEF kinda is.......) what we remember as 'good' oil is being stripped of what oil needs. Can't trust by name alone any more.

Mercruiser QuickSilver is the latest to go to sh-- on us. Here at the shop we had a boat owner who wiped the cam and lifters out in just one hour of run time on a fresh rebuild. He was relying on out of date information from Mercruiser. He had called and asked them if QuickSilver was enough for his fresh rebuild, they told him it was. And last year, that was true. But, it seems some of the 2017 Mercs are going to have cats. And the oil has ALREADY been updated. Guy thought he just had the lifters loose, and he kept adjusting. One hour later, and the lobes are wiped off the cam, and the lifters are bowl shaped and a quarter inch shorter. He removed the engine and we started over.

We sell Brad Penn at the shop and it has been doing fine. I don't think B Penn oil has an API rating. I also used 15W-50 Mobil 1 in some of my own older stuff. Don't know the API on the M1, if any, but the specs say 1300 ppm.

Be careful out there guys. It only took our customer an hour, and his cam & lifters were destroyed. 1 hour. LSG
 
#22 ·
Bart, you're entirely correct about the names remaining but the stuff inside not being as good. Lots of guys used to use Delvac or Delo or Rotella. And for awhile, they were okay. But now that diesels come from the factory with a tank full of piss ( don't understand how that works, but thats what DEF kinda is.......) what we remember as 'good' oil is being stripped of what oil needs. Can't trust by name alone any more.

Mercruiser QuickSilver is the latest to go to sh-- on us. Here at the shop we had a boat owner who wiped the cam and lifters out in just one hour of run time on a fresh rebuild. He was relying on out of date information from Mercruiser. He had called and asked them if QuickSilver was enough for his fresh rebuild, they told him it was. And last year, that was true. But, it seems some of the 2017 Mercs are going to have cats. And the oil has ALREADY been updated. Guy thought he just had the lifters loose, and he kept adjusting. One hour later, and the lobes are wiped off the cam, and the lifters are bowl shaped and a quarter inch shorter. He removed the engine and we started over.

We sell Brad Penn at the shop and it has been doing fine. I don't think B Penn oil has an API rating. I also used 15W-50 Mobil 1 in some of my own older stuff. Don't know the API on the M1, if any, but the specs say 1300 ppm.

Be careful out there guys. It only took our customer an hour, and his cam & lifters were destroyed. 1 hour. LSG
Thanks for the update on the Quicksilver. Although my F90 is DOHC, I'm sure there's reason enough with the cam running across a follower, I expect, to run a decent level of ZDDP. Before next year's oil change we'll be looking closely at the label.

I think the next oil change on the Mustang will be with the Classic Car Motor Oil.... Classic Car Motor Oil
 
#28 ·
niche products like this are USUALLY just a re-label of some nationally known brand, with little or no changes to the product itself. I wonder whose refinery this oil came from.

Hmmmm, maybe the world is ready for "ZRay's Classic Car Oil", plenty of zinc, and it tunes your car as you drive.

Not available in any stores.

Call 1-800-YOU-FOOL

Z.
 
#29 ·
All motor oil comes from a tiny few refineries. It's the additives packages that differ. The Classic Car Motor Oil claims to have an additives package designed for cars without a catalytic converter. There's no reason to believe they're outright lying. I don't think there's any reason to criticize it.
 
#30 ·
The critique from me is come from the lack of basic product data, like is provided by all the major oil companies, something like this:

Mobil 1? 15W-50


Mobil 1™ 15W-50
Advanced Full Synthetic Engine Oil
Product Description
Mobil 1™ 15W-50 is an advanced full synthetic engine oil designed to help provide exceptional wear protection for a smooth driving experience. Mobil 1 15W-50 meets or exceeds the requirements of the industry and car manufacturers' standards required for high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines. Mobil 1 15W-50 is a winning, race-proven technology. It is especially suited for a wide variety of motorsports applications, towing, and other severe service situations. Mobil 1 15W-50 helps to provide outstanding engine oil performance and protection for the winning edge. Mobil 1 is the official motor oil of NASCAR.



Features and Potential Benefits
Mobil 1 15W-50 is made with a proprietary blend of ultra high performance synthetic basestocks fortified with a precisely balanced component system. Mobil 1 15W-50's heavier viscosity together with this high-performance component system helps to provide the ultimate in dynamic lubricant protection. This feature is supported, not only by meeting or exceeding the toughest industry performance standards, but also it is proven in gruelling racing applications. Key features and potential benefits include:

Features Advantages and Potential Benefits
Advanced Full synthetic formula Helps prevent deposits and sludge build-up to enable long engine life Excellent overall lubrication and wear protection performance for many driving styles
Outstanding thermal and oxidation stability Outstanding performance during the maximum oil change interval recommended in a vehicle’s owners manual
Extra anti-wear additive Extra protection for severe service


Applications
Mobil 1 15W-50 is recommended for all types of vehicles, suitable for use in high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, light vans and trucks.

Mobil 1 15W-50 is suitable extreme engine stress conditions, where conventional oil often may not perform.
Mobil 1 15W-50 is not recommended for 2-Cycle or aviation engines, unless specifically approved by the manufacturer.


Specifications and Approvals
Mobil 1 15W-50 meets or exceeds the requirements of:
API SN, SM, SL, SJ
ACEA A3/B3

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 15W-50 is of the following quality level:
API CF


Typical Properties
Mobil 1 15W-50
SAE Grade 15W-50
Viscosity @ 100ÂşC, cSt (ASTM D445) 18
Viscosity, @ 40ÂşC, cSt (ASTM D445) 125
Viscosity Index 160
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 1.21
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 4.5
Pour Point, ÂşC (ASTM D97) -39
Flash Point, ÂşC (ASTM D92) 232
Density @15.6Âş C g/ml ASTM D4052) 0.87


http://pds.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_15W-50
 
#33 ·
Just the basic fact that it "meets or exceeds" API classification SN is proof positive that it contains less than 850ppm of ZDDP. You don't get "exemptions" from API Classifications. You simply receive the one that your product qualifies for.
 
#32 ·
By now you know I'm blind, but I still don't see a product data sheet on either website for the specific product (vintage oil ) that the classic CR club is selling. Truthfully it doesn't really matter to me as I'm satisfied with the oil I'm currently using.

Z
 
#34 ·
oil

Guys, it IS rather frustrating that Mobils descriptions aren't clearer than they are. But my Feb 2016 spec sheet from Mobil shows the 15W-50 as having 1300 Zinc, and 1200 phosphorous with an SN rating. Hows that work, you might ask ? One of our guys at the shop, who knows more about oils than anyone else I've ever met, says the SN limit of 800 only applies to oils with a hot viscosity number below 40. Thus, the 15w-40s, the 10w-40s, and the 5w and 15w-50s can have more Z and P and still be SN. The idea is that newer cars with cats won't get oil with the thicker numbers. Looking at the Mobil chart confirms the thinner SN oils have less Z and P than the thicker varieties do. LSG
 
#35 · (Edited)
Guys, it IS rather frustrating that Mobils descriptions aren't clearer than they are. But my Feb 2016 spec sheet from Mobil shows the 15W-50 as having 1300 Zinc, and 1200 phosphorous with an SN rating. Hows that work, you might ask ? One of our guys at the shop, who knows more about oils than anyone else I've ever met, says the SN limit of 800 only applies to oils with a hot viscosity number below 40. Thus, the 15w-40s, the 10w-40s, and the 5w and 15w-50s can have more Z and P and still be SN. The idea is that newer cars with cats won't get oil with the thicker numbers. Looking at the Mobil chart confirms the thinner SN oils have less Z and P than the thicker varieties do. LSG
See the API Classification document, table G-5 http://www.api.org/~/media/files/certification/engine-oil-diesel/publications/1509-eolcs17thaddendum1-032515.pdf

While the limit did not apply to API SM, there is a min of 600ppm and max of 800ppm for Phosphorous on all viscosities where a certification label is present and the gasoline (SN) precedes the diesel (CH-4, CI-4, CJ-4). Mobil1 15W50 is only API CF-rated.

Prior to being SN classified, there was no maximum limit for Phosphorous.

Edit: The upper limit does NOT apply to M1 15W-50 not because of its viscosity but because it does not carry the "Resource Conserving" certification from API. Resource Conserving requires further properties like:
1. emission system protection
2. turbocharger protection
3. compatibility with engines operating on ethanol containing fuels, up to E-85.

I apologize for the mistake.
 
#37 ·
oil

Bart, so, its not thickness, per se, but the lack of the energy savings rating, which of course the thicker oils don't have......that makes sense. Thanks. Looks like M1 15W-50 is still the 'good stuff' LSG