I use regular. That's all it needs. I get Castrol or Quakerstate. Usually get the deals from Walmart. If regular oil works like it should, why change??

 

I run Mobil 1 Full-synthetic in both my 03 Mustang and my 08 Jeep and very happy with them both - but also very interested to see what every puts in their classic motors. Subscribed!

 

I just run normal 20w50 in it. I usually grab whatever name brand is on sale, I can't tell the difference.

 

+1 for regular oil. Change it every 3000 miles or every 3 months.

 

I run mobil 1, which I may reevaluate as the oil gets changed about every 1500 miles or so. The benefits of synthetic oil at that oil change frequency are pretty nonexistent I imagine. Though it probably makes for a little easier starting in the cold winters up here.

Jafo

 

I run mobil 1, which I may reevaluate as the oil gets changed about every 1500 miles or so. The benefits of synthetic oil at that oil change frequency are pretty nonexistent I imagine. .........."
Jafo

not an accurate statement. There is less friction with synthetic oil, and thereby, less wear. This is especially beneficial at start-up when lubrication is minimal. This benefit is realized regardless of the oil change interval.

Z.

 

I have been running Mobil 1 years in all my cars.

 

Mobil 1 15w-50.

44,000+ miles over a nine year period. No measurable wear, no leaks, no problems. recent relevant posts. you will find many opposing views as to what works best. :

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/631407-yep-you-guessed-zddp-question.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/631251-knocking-oil-question.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/630636-new-engine-oil-change.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/627484-what-type-oil.html

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...ng-forum/616171-yet-another-thread-about-engine-oil-zddp-real-vs-synthetic.html

Z.

 

Guys, On the recommendation/advice of ZRay I changed the "break in" oil (Shell Rotella 15w40 dino with Zinc additive) out of my fresh 289 Hipo engine to Mobil 1 15w50 and MAN my engine really sounds good now!! don't know what the real difference is but I could hardly hear the great sound of the solid lifters before and now they sound "normal"-I am running an off the WalMart shelf Motorcraft FL1A painted engine block color with my correct reproduction Rotunda stamp applied!! Thanks Again Z !!!

 

in my 2012 5.0 I will use Mobil 1 or Amsoil, in my '65 289 and '67 390 I use std oil.

 

I run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a good filter usually pure one or Bosch whichever is on sale
- Chris

 

I was told to run 20w-50 in my engine when i had it built. Told me to stick with royal purple. Any body try thaty stuff or u think im gonna waste my money?

 

Royal Purple is very good oil. But you don't really need it for a street car and it's very expensive. Also, 20W-50 isn't optimal for a street car unless the engine is very worn or you're driving in EXTREMELY hot weather. 20W-50 is often used in racing engines because they're built with "loose" tolerences and the extra weight helps to maintain oil pressure. But a street engine is very different. Contrary to popular belief, what's good for a race car is not always good for a street car.

I've been running full-synthetic in most of my vehicles for many years. It offers very good protection for cold startups as well as driving in very hot weather. I also like that I can go longer between oil changes.

FYI, it's not necessary to change your oil every 3,000 miles anymore; let alone every 1500 miles. It won't hurt anything; other than your pocketbook and the environment. But the 3,000 mile rule came from many years ago when oils weren't nearly as sophisticated and engines ran dirtier.

For normal driving, you can easily go over 6,000 miles with regular oil and over 10,000 miles with synthetic. I know this sounds shocking, but test after test has shown no difference whether the oil is changed at 3,000 miles or 7,500 miles. Synthetic doesn't break down as quickly and can go longer.

The only disadvantages to synthetic oil are it costs more and it's more likely to leak. The molecules are smaller. As long as your gaskets are in good shape, it won't leak.

As for what weight to run, 5W-30 or 10W-30 is usually best unless you live in a very hot climate, like Las Vegas or Phoenix. Then 10W-40 might be better. 20W-50 isn't really a good idea unless you're driving across Iraq in August.

 

Royal Purple is very good oil. But you don't really need it for a street car and it's very expensive. Also, 20W-50 isn't optimal for a street car unless the engine is very worn or you're driving in EXTREMELY hot weather. 20W-50 is often used in racing engines because they're built with "loose" tolerences and the extra weight helps to maintain oil pressure. But a street engine is very different. Contrary to popular belief, what's good for a race car is not always good for a street car.

I've been running full-synthetic in most of my vehicles for many years. It offers very good protection for cold startups as well as driving in very hot weather. I also like that I can go longer between oil changes.

FYI, it's not necessary to change your oil every 3,000 miles anymore; let alone every 1500 miles. It won't hurt anything; other than your pocketbook and the environment. But the 3,000 mile rule came from many years ago when oils weren't nearly as sophisticated and engines ran dirtier.

For normal driving, you can easily go over 6,000 miles with regular oil and over 10,000 miles with synthetic. I know this sounds shocking, but test after test has shown no difference whether the oil is changed at 3,000 miles or 7,500 miles. Synthetic doesn't break down as quickly and can go longer.

The only disadvantages to synthetic oil are it costs more and it's more likely to leak. The molecules are smaller. As long as your gaskets are in good shape, it won't leak.

As for what weight to run, 5W-30 or 10W-30 is usually best unless you live in a very hot climate, like Las Vegas or Phoenix. Then 10W-40 might be better. 20W-50 isn't really a good idea unless you're driving across Iraq in August.[/

While I happen to agree with you on almost all of your points, I do have to disagree with one of them though. Most automobile manufactures recommend 3500 - 5000 mile service intervals for a reason. By products resulting from combustion end up in the crankcase and contaminate the oil. Also some people drive short distances, not allowing the engine to get up to full operating temperature. When this happens, condensation forms in the crankcase, often times leaving the oil milky in color (which is never good for the engine), resulting in a need for more frequent oil changes often times in the 1000 - 2000 mile intervals.

 

I run Valvoline VR1 conventional 10W-30 oil. Hard to find sometimes, but it's got enough ZDDP and detergents in it to keep the pony happy. Only slightly more expensive than your average conventional oil, and still less expensive than synthetic. She's been running fine for me so far

 

Pennzoil 10W-30 Full Synthetic.

 

valvoline 10w30 racing oil.

 

Okay, so it's good to hear that the Mobil 1 synthetic is at least worth a try at minimum. I got the 10 40 because it's hot as hell out here in Phoenix. My car runs around 190 to 200 when underway. It heats up to damn near 230 in stop and go traffic. However, it cools back down once I start moving again, and this is in 105 degree heat outside, and without a fan shroud. (which I'm expecting to arrive this week.

 

fyi, the Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage formula has more zinc/phosphorus than the standard Mobil 1 10w-40. You might want to consider adding a little zddp additive if using the standard formula Mobil 1 10w-40 or their 10w-30. Cam-Shief is a fine zddp additive: Cam Shield cam-shield premium ZDDP antiwear protection for camshafts, lifters and valve trains in your classic car or hot rod

In your climate, as in mine, the Mobil 1 15w-50 is not too "heavy" and has enough of the zddp additive needed by our old cars. Wal-Mart and most auto parts stores carry it

Z.

 

Well, I got the high mileage 10 40, so that's good. So, I probably shouldn't worry about adding the zddp now?

 

in my opinion, no. you should be fine. The Mobil 1 10w-40 has 1000 ppm phosphorus & 1100 ppm zinc. The standard Mobil 1 10w-40 formula has 800 ppm phosphorus & 900 ppm zinc, significantly less.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf


Z.

 

Mobil1 15w50. Built and installed the engine in '93, has over 380,000 miles currently. Great compression, lots of power. I'll not change when the new engine goes in...have to wait though; this one won't wear out....remember, true synthetics stick to everything and builds a quicker, tougher wedge.

 

Mobil 1 10w 30 in my 65 289. I'll change it every 5 or 6000 if I remember.

 

im runninr valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 in my 66 with a 289 and i love it. Im using a Fram PH8 filter, and compared to the penzoil 10w-30 with the same kinda of filter, my mustang seems way happier with the new oil. Granted I only change it every few yrs as it doesnt get very many miles (300-500) a summer but ive noticed that my oil pressure doesnt fluxuate as much with the VR1 oil. Filters make the most differance. Ive talked to a guy that got almost 11,000 miles out of a sythetic oil change with generic oil from O'rileys, and a mobile filter. He told me that with mobile oil and filter he was expecting to get 15,000. Granted this is on a honda, and they have those oil life monitors, but still. Synthetic definatly can go the distance.

 

+ 1 on the Valvoline VR-1 10w-30... good stuff for my '65 289 2v

 

+ another one except 20W50. I also add 5 ounces of Militec-1. Motorcraft FL1A Filter. Although I only put a couple thousand miles on it a year. In my other vehicles I generally use AMSOIL and change between 15K and 20K depending on the age of the vehicle.

 

I use regular 10W40 in this 66 Mustang, but I own a hot rod 67 SS Chevelle, the engine which was built by Barnett Performance in Atlanta (who are fairly renowned for race engines) and they recommended break in with regular oil, then to use fully synthetic 10W40.

 

I prefer synthetics over convetional. That being said I'm currently using a synthetic blend oil made by Brad Penn in my current engine. Synthetics in all my daily drivers (Pennzoil Ultra).

Synthetics are not affected by temperature change as much as conventional oils, they break down at a higher temperature and they allow you to have longer oil change intervals. Obviously longer oil change intervals is not a problem for most of us, but since sythetics dont break down over time you can leave them in the pan longer than a conventional which is a benefit. IMO no reason to not go with a synthetic other than price and if you are breaking in a new engine. Thats about it.

 

So more valvetrain noise is good??? :shrug:

 

it is if you are supposed to hear something, as is the case being mentioned by 6hypoconv, with a solid lifter 289 Hi-Po.

When you can't hear valve noise with a 0.022" valve clearance, then I'd be changing oil too.

Z.

 

I run Kedall semi synthetic 10w30 (still carry 65 lbs at idle) and on my 358w I run 10w40.

 

Wow, only one other user of Synthetic Blend? Suprising

Motorcraft 5w20 Synth Blend in our 2002 Mustang and 2008 Mountaineer. 10w30 in the 87 5.0. Probably run a Synth Blend or full Synthetic in the 69 when its done.

 

Wow, only one other user of Synthetic Blend? Suprising...."

my question would be, "how do you know what the blend is ? 50%-%50% ? or 10% synthetic-90% conventional ? or whatever is cheapest ?


Z.