Factory original!

 

It will save a lot of frustration! I wonder what people were thinking when I see some of these Frankenstein disc brake conversions.

 

OEM Kelsey Hayes front discs with Porterfield R4S pads.

Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 – Manual or Power Steering – Manual or Auto Transmission (1965 1966) Mustang – Opentracker Racing

opentrackerracing.com

If you still fill the need to stop better add a 11” x 2 1/4” rear drum kit.

11 X 2.25″ Drum Brakes for Small Bearing 8″ or 9″ Ford Rear – Opentracker Racing

opentrackerracing.com

 

Nice, that drum brake kit might be just what I’m looking for.

 

Street or Track, the owner ( Shaun ) posts here frequently. Great quality on all his parts. Brakes

 

I personally would not go for the most often used brake system, but for the one which fits YOUR needs best.

To get answers you should provide more information. How is your driving style and what is your goal? Do you have a budget?

 

I used Mustang Steve 2008 GT adapter plates on my car. I autocross my car and wanted non commie parts as much as possible to do so. With research was able to get it done using factory caliper cores and EBC rotors and pads. The most favored nation reproductions of the original Kelsey Hayes front disks will get it done for the street. The factory rear drums are more than adequate for anything but high MPH track days.

 

FWIW, The brakes I posted held up just fine all last year at the track. I did have front brake cooling ducts and R4 pads. However, you always need more brakes regardless of what you do.

 

Looking to get rid of PO front disc installation and replace with something better.

What did the PO install- a Scarebird kit using Govt. Motors calipers and Mazda rotors?

 

PO or POS brakes? Either way almost anything should be able to stop your car safely and without drama. If you can't make that happen or figure out why they won't then a name brand ain't gonna really be "better" or help much.

 

You shouldn’t Cheap out on brakes,.....,,

 

Like what has already been mentioned..... what kind of driving are YOU going to do with the car?
What'on the car up front right now?

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

The plan is to have a nice weekend driver, maybe a couple cruise-ins and/or local shows. The car will have a little more zip than normal but nothing outrageous. Could be some extended road trips with the wife and pooch. It will have completely new suspension and steering linkages. It currently has disc on the front now (PO executed) but I have no idea what brand or reliability. It stopped ok before I began the tear down but man was it ugly looking (see photo). When I get it back on the road I want it to have great stopping power and look good as well.

 

I just put the wilwood 13" 6 caliper discs on my 65 FB. I also installed a Wilwood master cylinder. I did not use a 1" MC although everyone and their brother recommends the 1". I used a 15/16" Wilwood MC and I could have used a 7/8". The brake pedal travel is not that much even with the 15/16 MC and the pedal stops way above the floorboard. I've had experience with 1" MCs without power assist and they require more leg force than I like. The 6 piston Wilwood calipers have just about the same piston area as the Kelsey Hayes I took off so they really don't warrant a 1" MC. The 6 piston calipers have one large piston and two smaller trailing pistons. I might have considered a 1" if I were putting 4 piston discs on the back also which would have had more area than the Granada drum pistons have, but I still may have used a smaller MC. I have the Kelsey Hayes 11" setup complete if want to buy it for $300 plus shipping.

 

Another vote here for OEM type KH brakes with high quality semi-metallic non-ceramic pads.

 

You have all you need. If the caliper bores are good you can rebuild them. I would just buy new from NPD. Easy. Get new rotors bearings and seals. Replace the rubber lines with stainless braided flex lines. Get a dual bowl MC and some Porterfield R4S pads. You will be good to go...or stop.

 

it also looks like an aftermarket adjustable valve as well. grab one from a 67-70 mustang and plumb that in. NPD has everything you need

calipers and rotors, and brake lines

1965-1973 Mustang Restoration Original Style Disc Brake Parts - National Parts Depot

Shop Original Style Disc Brake for your classic 1965-1973 Mustang at NPDLink.com! Free shipping over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing!

www.npdlink.com

proportioning valve

Combo Valve, Brake Distribution Block and Proportioning Valve - #2B091-20AA - National Parts Depot

Buy part #2B091-20AA Combo Valve, Brake Distribution Block and Proportioning Valve for your classic vehicle from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

 

it also looks like an aftermarket adjustable valve as well.

Looks like a factory "adjustable" KH proportioning valve, used on early Mustangs and on '65-'68 Corvette ordered with a heavy duty brake option.

 

If you need to also put $ into your MC or hard lines, using Granada calipers might save you some $ over name brand calipers.

But I don’t know if Granada calipers can just bolt up to Mustang spindles? (I’m sure someone will chime in...)

Case in point, my car came with Granada spindles and Granada calipers plus a 2nd pair of new in box Bendix made Granada calipers. Also it had a Wilwood proportioning valve and a leaky OEM Ford 15/16” master cylinder (and likely sludge in the hard lines).

I’m replacing most of the brake system with all new NPD stainless pre-bent hard lines (~$100), a Wilwood 15/16” master cylinder ($180), Bendix Granada calipers ($0 free for me), Porterfield pads ($80), Street or Track braided steel Granada lines ($75), and Raybestos R Line vented Granada rotors ($75).

For ~$500, I feel like I’m getting a lot of decent performing brake components for the money,

 

Well...now for a different dilemma...I believe I have two different rotors. It looks like I have a "one piece rotor" on pass side (the one that's off) and a "two-piece rotor" on the driver side.
Are my eyes deceiving me or am I correct?

 

You are correct.
Odds are good that the 1-piece design is the updated unit. (replacing the OE 2-piece)

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

Yes. You have a new style rotor with an integral hub on the passenger side and an old style rotor with removable hub on the driver side. As long as both rotors and hubs are in good working condition your car will drive and brake normally.

 

Both rotors are shot, grooved, and beyond tolerances so I'm getting new ones.

 

You can get a pair of new rotors for about $80 including shipping and tax from several websites.