Tough call as it looks to be in overall very good condition. I reused mine and it was almost the exact same condition, and 3 years later it was leaking around the water pump passages area against the block.

I bought a new repro, and it was incredibly spot on, even had the correct ford logo and P/N.

 

I guess the real question is, "what's it worth to you to not have to change it in the future"?


To me, if it's not too pricey or real difficult to get, replace it now while things are all apart.

 

I'll keep that in mind. Thank you.

 

This is the one I used, but this one is for the "early" 65's with the aluminum W/P with no back cover, I'm not sure if this is the one for you or not.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c4az-6019-a

 

The cover is from a 74 block with a WP outlet on the driver side with backing plate. It was a cast iron WP that I won't be reusing. This cover is with a bolt-on timing pointer. I saw that SD product and it has a cast in timing pointer. Would that matter? Plus I installed an Edelbrock double roller timing chain. I'm worried about timing chain rubbing the inside of the cover. I need to buy a WP pump anyway. So I guess my options are open to any type of timing cover based on the type of WP I'll buy correct?

 

Yup- I'd use it. you could mix up some epoxy or all-metal and paste the pits, then sand smooth, or like I'd probably do- add a bit more silicone to the gasket and slap it together. I've had some in worse condition that were just fine and didn't leak. Like Crall said- your call as you'll be the one redoing it if it leaks. I say practice makes perfect, right?

 

The machine shop told me about that idea. I've never done it before.

 

Local Napa has a Dorman brand timing cover for $90. It looks exactly the same as the one pictured. I might go with it and call it a day.

 

I'd use it.Maybe have it glass beaded or not, add a new seal and Permatex ultra gray or ultra black around some quality gaskets

 

Where would you apply the silicone?

 

I would use it. Clean the pitted surfaces with soap and hot water, dry completely then clean the pitted area with acetone, especially the pits get all the oil out. Now use JB weld to fill the Pitts, lightly sand w 600 wet or dry...

 

basically trace both side of the gasket before you install it, and be a little heavy around the coolant passages. Best to let it set up overnight before filling and firing...

 

I have gotten to where I would like to enjoy the car and not just the part where I work on it over and over.

 

:lol:

I'm currently redoing the front cover for the 2nd time, first was for a new timing set, this time is for a leak, and the oil pan has been off 4 times now for various reasons (one was because I dropped the damn oil pump drive shaft down into it!). My T5 has been leak free for 2 years and the rear end rebuild from last year is completely dry... I hope my current fixes get me a couple more years of "nothing!"

 

Thank you. Between JB weld and All-Metal, is it basically a toss up? I think I can pick either of the two in NAPA.

 

Thats why i like using/dressing up old school Ford parts instead of chinese knockoffs...;o)

 

+++1

 

I have found there are cars that no matter how well you put it together only stop leaking when they run out of liquids.


Then there is a scroungy guy with a bucket for a tool box that cobbles together a bunch of questionable parts used seals, broken gaskets, cracked hose, bent oil pans, twisted valve covers and cracks in the transmission housings and they don't leak a drop.

 

6 of 1 or a half dozen of another on reusing or buying a new cover. The old one can be cleaned up and use some JB Weld on the pitting if you want. You can use the cast on pointer if the lower hose is on the passenger side. The later bolt on pointer is more of a running change, universal to accommodate the lower hose on either side as their timing marks are different.

The only reason why you would have a rubbing issue with the timing chain is because you have the wrong fuel pump eccentric for the style of timing chain. The 1 piece fuel pump eccentric is about 1/8" thicker then the 2 piece eccentric. The 1 piece fuel pump eccentric cam sprocket is 1/8" thinner then the cam sprocket for the 2 piece eccentric. So if you put a 1 piece eccentric on a 2 piece eccentric cam sprocket you just made the set up 1/4" thicker causing rubbing.

 

Sure, I'd use it. First, I'd grab a piece of plate glass and glue some emery paper to it, lay the cover face up on the paper and gently work it in a circular pattern, checking occasionally until a nice, even pattern shows all the way around. You can do this to the face if you put your glass close to the edge of a table so the bulging bottom of the cover can hang off. Just make sure you keep the water pump mounting area flat to the paper. If you paint the cover, mask off the sealing areas or paint it after installation. Don't use stainless hardware..use chrome plated or coated stainless. Seal around the water passages on both sides of the gasket with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket and you'll be good to go for another 100,000 miles.

 

I'm going to be different then the others. I'm not recommending this to you but I just use antisieze on the gaskets. Never had a leak and the gasket pulls off cleanly next time.

 

I have a 74 Torino casting number based timing cover (which I think is what you have there). I personally wish I would have gone for something earlier. I had issues with the alternator bracket not fitting. I also have a driver side water pump now, which is mostly fine, just another part that's not standard, along with the radiator. Also, bolt on timing marker. I have yet to find the right one. The one I found for mustangs doesn't work.

 

Honestly, I'd replace it, only because it's replaceable.

The timing cover on my 64.5 has the fill tube (with a breather for a cap) on it, which I cannot seem to find a replacement for. Wanting to keep as much originality as I can (valve covers have NO breather or fill holes), I reused mine in similar or worse condition than that. Put some RTV on the timing cover in the problem areas, then put a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the paper gasket. Sealed up with no issues.

If you don't want to spend the money, I honestly think that one will give you no problem. But for the price, you might as well just get a new one.

 

X2 on the ultra grey or ultra black. Never, ever had a leak on anything where I've used that stuff with a light coat that's smoothed out evenly on each side of gasket. I wouldn't use the blue rtv that costs a dollar or 2 less on anything automotive related. I like to apply the high temp thread sealant to the bolts that will enter water passages and ARP assembly lube or anti-seize on those that don't. Tighten evenly, then let setup for 15 minutes or so and come back and tighten again is the approach I've used for things like this.

I've used the bolt kits that ARP and NPD sell and neither had the ideal length bolts for each and every hole (geeze there are a lot on a SB Ford water pump) so used what I could and got the few remaining bolts at a local hardware store that stocks good quality fasteners. The ARP black oxide bolt kit is good starting place if I had to pick one or the other. Also, I'd get a thread chaser kit from Summit to clean up all the threads. I got one for less than $20 that had the various sizes to do vast majority of threads throughout the engine. I wouldn't reassemble w/o first doing that.

 

My time and sanity is worth the price of a new one.