The Z bar pivots on 2 "ball studs". One is bolted to the top of the frame rail under the steering box and the other one screws into a hole in the side of the engine block. Very simple.

 

If you modify your car to include exhaust headers or some aftermarket rack and pinion steering, the Z-bar might require some modification to work in that crowded space. Otherwise, you should be fine.

 

I have a new Ron Morris cable set up that I am removing from my car as it interferes with my tri- y headers too much. Let me know if your interested.

 

 

I'm going to be doing the zbar as well in my auto to Toploader conversion, and have been collecting pics and content for months. Here are some thread and websites (with pics) that I've bookmarked. Hope it helps.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...4585-throwout-bearings-1968-mustang-t5-swap-diaphragm-clutch-z-bar-linkage.html

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...orum/1073442-new-product-modified-z-bar-67-70-borgeson-power-steering-swap.html

https://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang...com/mustang-clutch-equalizer-bar-kit-1967-1968-installation-instructions/a/483/

 

I'm going to be doing the zbar as well in my auto to Toploader conversion, and have been collecting pics and content for months. Here are some thread and websites (with pics) that I've bookmarked. Hope it helps.

Throwout Bearings; 1968 Mustang T5 Swap + Diaphragm...

New Product - Modified Z-bar for 67-70 Borgeson power...

https://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang...com/mustang-clutch-equalizer-bar-kit-1967-1968-installation-instructions/a/483/

Thanks for the information how do I save this thread so I can come back to it easily. I booked it the way the site is and I can't figure it out I got to be missing something.

 

Happy to see this thread as i ll be doing an automatic to toploader swap also.

 

In Woody's diagram above parts A8, A9, A10 and A14 are the frame rail ball stud and parts A8, A9, A14, A16 and A17 are the engine ball stud.

 

In my opinion all solutions have pros and cons. The Z bar is very simple and reliable, but can interfere with exhaust headers or steering components as stated by Jeff before. You also need a different Zbar dependent if you have stock manifold or HiPo. Cables can also get burned at the exhaust because of the loop from the firewall to the clutch. You are more flexible with the hydraulic line, but there is a risk of leaking at one point and the price.


What is your current setup (exhaust and steering) and what are your future plans?

 

I'm pulling my 289 and keeping the block. Going to add aftermarket heads ( probably an Edelbrock performer top end kit since its an all in one package). Probably keeping the stock manifolds or maybe HiPo with an Arvinode exhaust. Currently have a Borgeson so I know I need the correct Z bar. Also need to swap out he auto brake pedal and add clutch pedal. Will probably talk to the people at Open Tracker.


Thanks for everyone input and more questions to follow!

 

I'm also doing C4 to TL conversion using stock designed components from Opentracker. I have the transmission and engine installed but haven't gotten a chance to install the linkage yet. I did the roller bearing mod to my clutch pedal and will be using rod ends on my clutch linkage and perhaps my shifter linkage as well.

 

Make sure you do your homework on this conversion. There are MANY threads on this forum and others that talk in detail about the parts needed. For example, if you're running the Borgeson unit, you need a different Zbar. OpenTracker sells it and it's referenced in the link I shared above. Another gotcha is if you're running a new roller block (1987 5.0) like I am. Those newer blocks don't have a boss for the zbar unit to mount into... so I found this part from California Pony Cars which attaches to the bellhousing and provides a mounting point for the zbar. The point is, do a lot of homework on this!

 

I'm running a Toploader 4 speed so that means mechanical Z bar. I made my own linkage. Super easy and cheap. It's been 100% problem free is the 8-10 years it's been in the car. The only time I had to adjust anything was when I put my GT40P on along with a new flywheel and clutch. The best part you can say I made this instead of I bought this.

 

I went with the z because I did not want to make any additions holes in the firewall and on the recommendation of several on this forum stating the z bar with the roller bearings in the pedal hanger is as good if not better than cable or hydraulic. I had to buy the jba z bar to get around the jba shorty headers. It’s very tight but clearance is clearance . I deleted the clutch return spring and that was a high improvement

 

Ditto on the roller bearings for the pedal hanger

<a href='https://postimg.cc/34MJKZP5' target='_blank'><img src='https://i.postimg.cc/k4GVv1s4/dscn0306.jpg' border='0' alt='dscn0306'/></a>

 

Continued from above. I bought the complete kit from modern driveline. Buying the kit was better for me than trying to save a few bucks and piece it together. If you order from modern drive line speak to Bruce as I had issues with my order. If you decide to go with the z bar have modern driveline install the fulcrum to the bellhousing before they ship it to you. Yes it is expensive time is money especially if you are having someone install it for you

 

Did you do a c4 to T5 swap or did you have a manual to start?

 

Here are some z-bar pics related to my header install, with a T10.
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...g-forum/1165994-header-success-3rd-time-s-brand-charm-doug-thorley-headers.html

 

I did a T5 swap, with a T5 bell, on my 65 coupe. I installed tri Ys and a Ron Morris cable on the 302. The headers interfered with the cable and I was afraid I would cook the cable. After giving up I pulled the headers and replaced them with Hipo manifolds, problem solved. The cable is smooth and the clutch works great.

 

I did a c-4 to t5

 

No matter which of the three options you chose, go with the roller bearings for the clutch pedal.
As others have said, each option has pluses and minuses. The Z-bar (actually a bell crank) will never fail if you update to a full hemi-joint system (mine is from OpenTracker), but does limit your header and steering upgrade options. The cable is simple but can fail due to heat and requires a change in the clutch release arm (it pulls rather than pushes). The hydraulic setups take the least engine bay room allowing infinite header and steering options, but can leak and there are numerous issues with the master cylinder installation (especially if you have power brakes).
I’ve done the roller bearing pedal and hemi-joint z-bar with my big block, with a diaphragm clutch pressure plate, and removed the “assist” spring under the dash, and it is smooth and easy. Perfect.

 

I already did the T5z swap on my 66 coupe. I bought my swap kit from bruce at modern driveline. One of my biggest regrets is keeping the original zbar linkage rather then upgrade to the hydraulic setup. I'm currently in the process of ordering the hydraulic kit from Bruce. From my knowledge, the slave cyinders tend to leak if they are the external ones. So for my upgrade, im opting for a Tilton internal hydraulic throwout bearing. For the master cylinder im going with the wilwood one.

 

was your regret due to z bar clearance issues, heavy pedal or some other issues.

 

65 goldcoupe, I just did a T5 swap in my 65 6 cylinder and the clutch pedal pressure is quite light. Something seems very wrong in your set-up. I had to tweek my z-bar so the upper rod would clear the firewall penetration without rubbing. But now it's all good.
Personally I can't imagine driving any manual tranny around San Fransisco as a daily driver. Kudos to you.

 

When talking about the z-bar. A lot of people have probably wundered why the stock lower rod have that oversized D-shaped hole. I believe that it's a cheap low-tech solution on getting low friction in that joint, a simple way of making a "roller". Basically it's looks to be clever engineering. ?

 

I assume that when I clean this area off, I'll see a dimple to show me where to drill for the clutch rod. Also, how big is the hole? I'm hoping that I won't have to move/bend that brake line to the front PS brake.

 

I assume that when I clean this area off, I'll see a dimple ....

Search 1½" right below the bolt seen in you pic that mounts the MC to the firewall.

 

You won't have to drill. It's a knock-out.

 

Here's a picture I took of my car when I did my swap from C4 to Toploader that @oldpaint mentioned

 

Thanks everyone. Pulling the engine this weekend then I will get going on the swap. I post pics of the "stuff" I find. Already found a kick down cable that was zip-tied in an "s" shape to make it shorter instead of just adjusting it?!?!?

@Huskinhano form the looks of your brake lines, mine aren't correct........one more thing to fix if the Zbar interferes.

 

I tend to copy the address of the page and email it to myself. That allows me to access it on multiple devices. The email digital host curses as it doesn't like to do that, but the link is still available inside the digital warning email.

 

Okay thanks I figured that out now

 

Okay thanks I figured that out now

Also if you see a particular reply in a thread, just click Save in the bottom right corner of the post and you can also add a label making it very easy to find in your Bookmarks.