Hi I’m new here guys and girls thanks for having me ? I’m Australian and planning to buy a vintage car for my retirement fund. The government here allows you to do that. So there is a matching number 1966 K code Fastback and it’s recently arrived here from the US and I’m hoping you guys may know something about it? I’ve deciphered the Chassis number ( I think ) 6R09K224305 The color is now blue, is that Guardsman blue or Nightist blue? Otherwise it appears to be as it should, Pony deluxe interior, 4 speed manual, 3.5 diff, front discs with some Shelby options etc I will attach photos if I can. It’s apparently had a major resto in 2000. They claim the body is 10/10!? Thanks in advance for your time and comments ? Aaron
1966 K code Fastback
Powerhouse66
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Hi I’m new here guys and girls thanks for having me ? I’m Australian and planning to buy a vintage car for my retirement fund. The government here allows you to do that. So there is a matching number 1966 K code Fastback and it’s recently arrived here from the US and I’m hoping you guys may know something about it? I’ve deciphered the Chassis number ( I think ) 6R09K224305 The color is now blue, is that Guardsman blue or Nightist blue? Otherwise it appears to be as it should, Pony deluxe interior, 4 speed manual, 3.5 diff, front discs with some Shelby options etc I will attach photos if I can. It’s apparently had a major resto in 2000. They claim the body is 10/10!? Thanks in advance for your time and comments ? Aaron
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1,177 Posts
Arvo..!
This is an awesome car mate.! Congratulations.!!
The color code is W, and for what I could see, this is not a 66 available color but from 67 and up, with different names, there you go what I found..
W 67 Clearwater Aqua
68 Meadwlrk Yellow
69 Meadwlrk Yellow
Trim 66 states for black and white (luxury)
Date 01F June 1st
Guess you have deciphered all other codes..
Enjoy the car if you finally get it, looks amazing to me.!
Josep
This is an awesome car mate.! Congratulations.!!
The color code is W, and for what I could see, this is not a 66 available color but from 67 and up, with different names, there you go what I found..
W 67 Clearwater Aqua
68 Meadwlrk Yellow
69 Meadwlrk Yellow
Trim 66 states for black and white (luxury)
Date 01F June 1st
Guess you have deciphered all other codes..
Enjoy the car if you finally get it, looks amazing to me.!
Josep
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15,381 Posts
When you say matching numbers, what exactly do you mean? Are the block and trans stamped? Do the VINs on the inner fender aprons match?
That appears to be a new door data plate. Typically, a red flag.
That appears to be a new door data plate. Typically, a red flag.
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6,476 Posts
They could have used some better front seats, and the distributor appears to have a vacuum advance, not stock for a K code, although the photo is a bit fuzzy. The brake master cylinder appears to be not stock, again the photo is fuzzy and can't tell for sure. I think I would either walk away or ask for some clarification on these issues.
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Thanks I think it looks like a fabulous car too! But I definitely want the make sure it is an original K code GT. That plate is on the left front inner guard under the hood, what do you mean waste of extra parts? I thought the paint code was a V which means Emberglow ( brown ) maybe the resizing of the photo blurred it to a W. The interior I traced to black pony deluxe. I too am worried about the new looking plate.. I see the car in person I’m a few days. I’ve google checks to perform to confirm a real GT K code. And will look at all paperwork.
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Yes the Vins on inner aprons match with engine and ID plate in the photo. The seats the seller is telling me are Shelby? Along with the quarter windows. Thanks for the info re the vacuum advance I will look for that too. The engine has had some fairly major work and is a 331 CI Windsor built to rev to 8000rpm. Thank you for your assistance.
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1,340 Posts
make sure the two Vin stampings on the engine compartment sheet metal match each other and the door tag.
the K-Code cars have S/N stampings on the engines and transmissions that match the s/n of the car.
here is where the S/N should be on the top loader - this is the front of the trans where it butts up to the bell housing
![Image]()
the S/N on the block should be near where the negative cable attaches to the block
![Image]()
the K-Code cars have S/N stampings on the engines and transmissions that match the s/n of the car.
here is where the S/N should be on the top loader - this is the front of the trans where it butts up to the bell housing
the S/N on the block should be near where the negative cable attaches to the block
'66GT350H - '67 Ranchero 545ci 460 - '68.5 Mustang 428CJ '74 and 78 F350 "Oleynik" enclosed haulers
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2,033 Posts
The transmission stamp is not in the "typical" location. The typical location is the "pad" shown below where this one was stamped. The "typical" stamp used was a "gang stamp" where the numbers and letters were arranged in a holder , not individual stamps like were used on the block. I'm not suggesting the stamp is fake , just abnormal for the reasons I stated.
Randy
Randy
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1,340 Posts
Hey - sorry. i found the stamping when i rebuilt the toploader that came with the my Non-K car. Just ***-u-med that it was in the same location on others. FWIW - the unit pictured is a close ratio toploader - which is consistent with the stamping.
I note the build location is 'F' which is Dearborn. perhaps there were stamping variances around plants. I know my Metuchen cars have bolt on dataplates that cars built elsewhere did not carry.
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858 Posts
I'm always concerned when someone new pops in all excited
about buying such-and-such rare car and it's probably either
a fake or has some other serious issues.
Like others have mentioned, there are some red flags here.
Small blurry photos are the first big red flag. Hyperbole and
irrelevant "special parts" are another warning siren. If it
sounds too good to be true, then it probably is. You really
need to take a Mustang expert with you when/if you buy
a car. It's also a good idea to have an auto-restoration
expert with you who can spot bad paint and bondo. There's
way too much money involved with these old cars to roll
the dice if the seller is dishonest. Scammers LOVE overseas
buyers!
engine is missing. With a 331 stroker installed, this car is now
a resto-mod and should be priced accordingly. Even with a
"K" in the VIN stamp, I wouldn't pay more than $30K for
this car (in excellent shape, less for fair condition).
Perhaps they installed a road-race motor that can run
8K rpm... but I strongly doubt it. When I see needless and
outrageous claims like this, my scam-radar goes "Bing!". Who
puts an 8K rpm race motor in a car without a roll cage? Make
the seller back such claims with paperwork. Did Roush-Yates
build this engine? If not, then it better be another established
engine builder like John Kaase. Otherwise, it's just a common
crate engine.
Having a "K" in the VIN stamp means that you can begin the
search for a correct engine and other related parts, and
eventually turn this car into a concours K-code GT for the
best collector value. But that's a darn expensive process!
Finding all the parts and installing them may be significantly
more expensive than just finding a complete K-code fastback
in fair condition and restoring it yourself.
are valid and hopefully match the car's title. That's good. But
how can a replacement 331 stroker engine have a matching
VIN stamp? That's bad. It suggests the seller is a liar. If he
claims ignorance, then assume he's lying.
Finally, please ignore the silly warranty plate on the door.
Don't even look at it again. It's meaningless trivia. You can
get a new door plate made to order for any paint/interior/etc.
option you want. For the 65/66 cars, you can't tell if the door
plate was replaced because Maarti reports are not available
for the early cars. Ford factory records are not available
before 1967.
so any Shelby features are irrelevant. Second, 1966 Shelby
interiors are stock with a few minor changes like "comfort
weave" material in the seat inserts, a tachometer, and racing
seat belts. Maybe the seller means he used comfort weave
seat covers, but they add nothing to the car's value since
they weren't available as a option until 1968.
The bottom line is that this car is worth more to a collector
(and therefore as a long-term investment) when it's turned
into a factory correct K-code GT compared to a resto-mod
quasi-Shelby mish-mosh. A few real (or re-pop) Shelby
parts add zero value to this car.
about buying such-and-such rare car and it's probably either
a fake or has some other serious issues.
Like others have mentioned, there are some red flags here.
Small blurry photos are the first big red flag. Hyperbole and
irrelevant "special parts" are another warning siren. If it
sounds too good to be true, then it probably is. You really
need to take a Mustang expert with you when/if you buy
a car. It's also a good idea to have an auto-restoration
expert with you who can spot bad paint and bondo. There's
way too much money involved with these old cars to roll
the dice if the seller is dishonest. Scammers LOVE overseas
buyers!
The value of the car is MUCH lower if the correct Hi-Po 289
engine is missing. With a 331 stroker installed, this car is now
a resto-mod and should be priced accordingly. Even with a
"K" in the VIN stamp, I wouldn't pay more than $30K for
this car (in excellent shape, less for fair condition).
Perhaps they installed a road-race motor that can run
8K rpm... but I strongly doubt it. When I see needless and
outrageous claims like this, my scam-radar goes "Bing!". Who
puts an 8K rpm race motor in a car without a roll cage? Make
the seller back such claims with paperwork. Did Roush-Yates
build this engine? If not, then it better be another established
engine builder like John Kaase. Otherwise, it's just a common
crate engine.
Having a "K" in the VIN stamp means that you can begin the
search for a correct engine and other related parts, and
eventually turn this car into a concours K-code GT for the
best collector value. But that's a darn expensive process!
Finding all the parts and installing them may be significantly
more expensive than just finding a complete K-code fastback
in fair condition and restoring it yourself.
There is good and bad in that sentence. Fender VIN stamps
are valid and hopefully match the car's title. That's good. But
how can a replacement 331 stroker engine have a matching
VIN stamp? That's bad. It suggests the seller is a liar. If he
claims ignorance, then assume he's lying.
Finally, please ignore the silly warranty plate on the door.
Don't even look at it again. It's meaningless trivia. You can
get a new door plate made to order for any paint/interior/etc.
option you want. For the 65/66 cars, you can't tell if the door
plate was replaced because Maarti reports are not available
for the early cars. Ford factory records are not available
before 1967.
That's another red flag. Mostly because this car isn't a Shelby
so any Shelby features are irrelevant. Second, 1966 Shelby
interiors are stock with a few minor changes like "comfort
weave" material in the seat inserts, a tachometer, and racing
seat belts. Maybe the seller means he used comfort weave
seat covers, but they add nothing to the car's value since
they weren't available as a option until 1968.
The bottom line is that this car is worth more to a collector
(and therefore as a long-term investment) when it's turned
into a factory correct K-code GT compared to a resto-mod
quasi-Shelby mish-mosh. A few real (or re-pop) Shelby
parts add zero value to this car.
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1,013 Posts
Few too many "hmms" on that car to be a real K code IMO, and it's recent arrival from the states makes it seem a little too coincidental. I would do a whole lot of fact and part checking before parting with your hard earned cash. And if it doesn't pan out but you still think the car is what you are looking for, pay nice FB prices ignoring all "K Code" supposed adders ...
Isn't there a long time member here that does a bunch of importing/exporting of "real" cars? Might be worth tracking them down to assist in the process?
Isn't there a long time member here that does a bunch of importing/exporting of "real" cars? Might be worth tracking them down to assist in the process?
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6 Posts
Thanks very much for your all your comments guys it’s all very informative! I’m a mechanic but no experience in old Mustangs at all. So expert comments are very helpful to me.
The seller has told me ( and I still need to verify) that the engine is the original 289 matching number, but has had major work done internally forged everything etc and built to rev to 8k so we all know the extent of work needed to make that happen. I’m not planning to rev it to 8k! I’ve watched a video of the car and heard it idle, the cam is rather large. The pictures you see are grainy because of the Re size needed to post photos to this forum. I will find out the name of the place that did the Resto in the US and run it past you guys if possible please. I understand that the Shelby add ons don’t add value and are not original Shelby. It has got a roll cage. The seller is a car dealer, we have strict laws here in Australia that if something is claimed incorrectly refunds occur. But I am here talking to you guys just for this reason. Thank you to the guy posting photos of the top loader number positions etc I will take all into account. Yes it has a top loader and 9 inch rear. It also has torque rods front to back with a red oxide floor. Just so you all know the asking price of this car is $60K US. Thank you again for all your help! I’m looking at the car throughly in about 3 days. ?
The seller has told me ( and I still need to verify) that the engine is the original 289 matching number, but has had major work done internally forged everything etc and built to rev to 8k so we all know the extent of work needed to make that happen. I’m not planning to rev it to 8k! I’ve watched a video of the car and heard it idle, the cam is rather large. The pictures you see are grainy because of the Re size needed to post photos to this forum. I will find out the name of the place that did the Resto in the US and run it past you guys if possible please. I understand that the Shelby add ons don’t add value and are not original Shelby. It has got a roll cage. The seller is a car dealer, we have strict laws here in Australia that if something is claimed incorrectly refunds occur. But I am here talking to you guys just for this reason. Thank you to the guy posting photos of the top loader number positions etc I will take all into account. Yes it has a top loader and 9 inch rear. It also has torque rods front to back with a red oxide floor. Just so you all know the asking price of this car is $60K US. Thank you again for all your help! I’m looking at the car throughly in about 3 days. ?
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9,790 Posts
Unless your retirement plan is:
A) Die very young
B) Stale bread Crusts and Rancid Water
I would NOT NOT NOT buy this for my retirement fund.
K cars are very esoteric, little parts missing or with the wrong date code are EXTREMELY expensive to replace and often just don't exist. Many a K car "back in the day" became short track race cars, and the engine and trans were pulled for better drivetrains, and the original drivetrains were lost. Later the rear ends were pulled for something better for the track or street. So there was a body with a K stamp, and virtually nothing left that made it a K car, with the exception of some small welded parts. Later, somebody stumbled on the body shell hiding in a barn or in the back field, and $$$$$ in their heads start to restore it, and then totals up the cost to "restore" and quickly give up.
The car passes through a few hands, and someone turns it into a restomod, looks good, sounds evil, flashy paint, and then exports it to Australia where any legal issues on the Vehicle ID or other things magically goes away.
Sometimes, reading the horror stories of Mustangs that have been exported as jewels to Australia and New Zealand, and turned out to be total pretty heaps, I am surprised that you guys have not declared war on us.
A) Die very young
B) Stale bread Crusts and Rancid Water
I would NOT NOT NOT buy this for my retirement fund.
K cars are very esoteric, little parts missing or with the wrong date code are EXTREMELY expensive to replace and often just don't exist. Many a K car "back in the day" became short track race cars, and the engine and trans were pulled for better drivetrains, and the original drivetrains were lost. Later the rear ends were pulled for something better for the track or street. So there was a body with a K stamp, and virtually nothing left that made it a K car, with the exception of some small welded parts. Later, somebody stumbled on the body shell hiding in a barn or in the back field, and $$$$$ in their heads start to restore it, and then totals up the cost to "restore" and quickly give up.
The car passes through a few hands, and someone turns it into a restomod, looks good, sounds evil, flashy paint, and then exports it to Australia where any legal issues on the Vehicle ID or other things magically goes away.
Sometimes, reading the horror stories of Mustangs that have been exported as jewels to Australia and New Zealand, and turned out to be total pretty heaps, I am surprised that you guys have not declared war on us.
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8,734 Posts
Odds are low that it is an authentic K code car. There was only a bit over 5000 of those built in 66. The K optioned cars carry a higher value if the vehicle and its K code options are all restored to as new, original condition.
The VIN is not in the hipo registry either and anybody that has an authentic K code mustang would very most likely have it in the hipo registry.
The VIN is not in the hipo registry either and anybody that has an authentic K code mustang would very most likely have it in the hipo registry.
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8,307 Posts
Uh, no. Common aftermarket Procar "Rally", and not high in the pecking order of seats (if you ask me).
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1,233 Posts
I thought the part about buying this FOR your retirement fund was a joke (more like robbing the retirement fund to buy a toy). If it is not a joke then please reconsider. First, this car is WAY overpriced and 2nd there are not many cars that I would consider an "investment". They are out there, but this is not one of them. This is a restomod pure and simple. K code? maybe, but it would cost way more than it is worth to restore to K-code glory, and that is if you bought it for way less than it is currently worth.
Don't get me wrong, it is a very nice looking car, just not as advertised in my opinion
Don't get me wrong, it is a very nice looking car, just not as advertised in my opinion
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