Arvo..!
This is an awesome car mate.! Congratulations.!!
The color code is W, and for what I could see, this is not a 66 available color but from 67 and up, with different names, there you go what I found..

W 67 Clearwater Aqua
68 Meadwlrk Yellow
69 Meadwlrk Yellow

Trim 66 states for black and white (luxury)
Date 01F June 1st

Guess you have deciphered all other codes..

Enjoy the car if you finally get it, looks amazing to me.!


Josep

 

When you say matching numbers, what exactly do you mean? Are the block and trans stamped? Do the VINs on the inner fender aprons match?

That appears to be a new door data plate. Typically, a red flag.

 

If this is really a K car, to me it seems a huge waste of all the wrong items installed. Generally I would say 'red flag' too, like the previous post.

 

They could have used some better front seats, and the distributor appears to have a vacuum advance, not stock for a K code, although the photo is a bit fuzzy. The brake master cylinder appears to be not stock, again the photo is fuzzy and can't tell for sure. I think I would either walk away or ask for some clarification on these issues.

 

Thanks I think it looks like a fabulous car too! But I definitely want the make sure it is an original K code GT. That plate is on the left front inner guard under the hood, what do you mean waste of extra parts? I thought the paint code was a V which means Emberglow ( brown ) maybe the resizing of the photo blurred it to a W. The interior I traced to black pony deluxe. I too am worried about the new looking plate.. I see the car in person I’m a few days. I’ve google checks to perform to confirm a real GT K code. And will look at all paperwork.

 

Yes the Vins on inner aprons match with engine and ID plate in the photo. The seats the seller is telling me are Shelby? Along with the quarter windows. Thanks for the info re the vacuum advance I will look for that too. The engine has had some fairly major work and is a 331 CI Windsor built to rev to 8000rpm. Thank you for your assistance.

 

I'm always concerned when someone new pops in all excited
about buying such-and-such rare car and it's probably either
a fake or has some other serious issues.

Like others have mentioned, there are some red flags here.
Small blurry photos are the first big red flag. Hyperbole and
irrelevant "special parts" are another warning siren. If it
sounds too good to be true, then it probably is. You really
need to take a Mustang expert with you when/if you buy
a car. It's also a good idea to have an auto-restoration
expert with you who can spot bad paint and bondo. There's
way too much money involved with these old cars to roll
the dice if the seller is dishonest. Scammers LOVE overseas
buyers!

The engine has had some fairly major work and is a 331 CI Windsor built to rev to 8000rpm.

The value of the car is MUCH lower if the correct Hi-Po 289
engine is missing. With a 331 stroker installed, this car is now
a resto-mod and should be priced accordingly. Even with a
"K" in the VIN stamp, I wouldn't pay more than $30K for
this car (in excellent shape, less for fair condition).

Perhaps they installed a road-race motor that can run
8K rpm... but I strongly doubt it. When I see needless and
outrageous claims like this, my scam-radar goes "Bing!". Who
puts an 8K rpm race motor in a car without a roll cage? Make
the seller back such claims with paperwork. Did Roush-Yates
build this engine? If not, then it better be another established
engine builder like John Kaase. Otherwise, it's just a common
crate engine.

Having a "K" in the VIN stamp means that you can begin the
search for a correct engine and other related parts, and
eventually turn this car into a concours K-code GT for the
best collector value. But that's a darn expensive process!
Finding all the parts and installing them may be significantly
more expensive than just finding a complete K-code fastback
in fair condition and restoring it yourself.

Yes the Vins on inner aprons match with engine and ID plate in the photo.

There is good and bad in that sentence. Fender VIN stamps
are valid and hopefully match the car's title. That's good. But
how can a replacement 331 stroker engine have a matching
VIN stamp? That's bad. It suggests the seller is a liar. If he
claims ignorance, then assume he's lying.

Finally, please ignore the silly warranty plate on the door.
Don't even look at it again. It's meaningless trivia. You can
get a new door plate made to order for any paint/interior/etc.
option you want. For the 65/66 cars, you can't tell if the door
plate was replaced because Maarti reports are not available
for the early cars. Ford factory records are not available
before 1967.

The seats the seller is telling me are Shelby?

That's another red flag. Mostly because this car isn't a Shelby
so any Shelby features are irrelevant. Second, 1966 Shelby
interiors are stock with a few minor changes like "comfort
weave" material in the seat inserts, a tachometer, and racing
seat belts. Maybe the seller means he used comfort weave
seat covers, but they add nothing to the car's value since
they weren't available as a option until 1968.

The bottom line is that this car is worth more to a collector
(and therefore as a long-term investment) when it's turned
into a factory correct K-code GT compared to a resto-mod
quasi-Shelby mish-mosh. A few real (or re-pop) Shelby
parts add zero value to this car.

 

make sure the two Vin stampings on the engine compartment sheet metal match each other and the door tag.
the K-Code cars have S/N stampings on the engines and transmissions that match the s/n of the car.

here is where the S/N should be on the top loader - this is the front of the trans where it butts up to the bell housing

the S/N on the block should be near where the negative cable attaches to the block

 

The transmission stamp is not in the "typical" location. The typical location is the "pad" shown below where this one was stamped. The "typical" stamp used was a "gang stamp" where the numbers and letters were arranged in a holder , not individual stamps like were used on the block. I'm not suggesting the stamp is fake , just abnormal for the reasons I stated.
Randy

 

Hey - sorry. i found the stamping when i rebuilt the toploader that came with the my Non-K car. Just ***-u-med that it was in the same location on others. FWIW - the unit pictured is a close ratio toploader - which is consistent with the stamping.

I note the build location is 'F' which is Dearborn. perhaps there were stamping variances around plants. I know my Metuchen cars have bolt on dataplates that cars built elsewhere did not carry.

 

With all the mods to that car (new 331 CI engine, seats, Shelby effects, roll cage, etc) I would be very skeptical that this is a real K code GT.

 

Few too many "hmms" on that car to be a real K code IMO, and it's recent arrival from the states makes it seem a little too coincidental. I would do a whole lot of fact and part checking before parting with your hard earned cash. And if it doesn't pan out but you still think the car is what you are looking for, pay nice FB prices ignoring all "K Code" supposed adders ...

Isn't there a long time member here that does a bunch of importing/exporting of "real" cars? Might be worth tracking them down to assist in the process?

 

beautiful!

 

Thanks very much for your all your comments guys it’s all very informative! I’m a mechanic but no experience in old Mustangs at all. So expert comments are very helpful to me.
The seller has told me ( and I still need to verify) that the engine is the original 289 matching number, but has had major work done internally forged everything etc and built to rev to 8k so we all know the extent of work needed to make that happen. I’m not planning to rev it to 8k! I’ve watched a video of the car and heard it idle, the cam is rather large. The pictures you see are grainy because of the Re size needed to post photos to this forum. I will find out the name of the place that did the Resto in the US and run it past you guys if possible please. I understand that the Shelby add ons don’t add value and are not original Shelby. It has got a roll cage. The seller is a car dealer, we have strict laws here in Australia that if something is claimed incorrectly refunds occur. But I am here talking to you guys just for this reason. Thank you to the guy posting photos of the top loader number positions etc I will take all into account. Yes it has a top loader and 9 inch rear. It also has torque rods front to back with a red oxide floor. Just so you all know the asking price of this car is $60K US. Thank you again for all your help! I’m looking at the car throughly in about 3 days. ?

 

Unless your retirement plan is:

A) Die very young

B) Stale bread Crusts and Rancid Water

I would NOT NOT NOT buy this for my retirement fund.

K cars are very esoteric, little parts missing or with the wrong date code are EXTREMELY expensive to replace and often just don't exist. Many a K car "back in the day" became short track race cars, and the engine and trans were pulled for better drivetrains, and the original drivetrains were lost. Later the rear ends were pulled for something better for the track or street. So there was a body with a K stamp, and virtually nothing left that made it a K car, with the exception of some small welded parts. Later, somebody stumbled on the body shell hiding in a barn or in the back field, and $$$$$ in their heads start to restore it, and then totals up the cost to "restore" and quickly give up.

The car passes through a few hands, and someone turns it into a restomod, looks good, sounds evil, flashy paint, and then exports it to Australia where any legal issues on the Vehicle ID or other things magically goes away.

Sometimes, reading the horror stories of Mustangs that have been exported as jewels to Australia and New Zealand, and turned out to be total pretty heaps, I am surprised that you guys have not declared war on us.

 

IMHO the Data Plate is a reproduction/restamped so I'd be very suspicious of the "provenance" of the original VIN stamps.

 

Odds are low that it is an authentic K code car. There was only a bit over 5000 of those built in 66. The K optioned cars carry a higher value if the vehicle and its K code options are all restored to as new, original condition.

The VIN is not in the hipo registry either and anybody that has an authentic K code mustang would very most likely have it in the hipo registry.

 

I thought the part about buying this FOR your retirement fund was a joke (more like robbing the retirement fund to buy a toy). If it is not a joke then please reconsider. First, this car is WAY overpriced and 2nd there are not many cars that I would consider an "investment". They are out there, but this is not one of them. This is a restomod pure and simple. K code? maybe, but it would cost way more than it is worth to restore to K-code glory, and that is if you bought it for way less than it is currently worth.

Don't get me wrong, it is a very nice looking car, just not as advertised in my opinion

 

A 331 with a VIN stamp...wait is this a Delorean? F code (Dearborn) didn’t have red oxide floors, they were black. Looks like a nice car but doubt it’s an original K and would only consider paying nice looking car price for it

 

I'm no expert, but my BS meter pegged and hit a really high pitch when I saw those pictures...

Allen

 

K FB

I too, saw a lot of major red flags. The data plate is a repro- period. There's not enough "patina" for it to be original. I've attached a copy of mine for comparison. If they made a K motor into a 331, then they've essentially destroyed the K original value. 1/4 windows, seats (like everyone has said), wrong distributor, etc. are reasons to RUN! Not sure about the VIN on the trans, but the engine VIN is essential. EVERY 66 was wired for fog lights, so that GT factor isn't determining like a 65. Someone did a great resto but it looks like a mis-representation of what it really is. For a really nice FB, buy it at a reasonable price, as a K GT, there's too much to question. If we can see problems in blurry pics, what would we see in person?? Even if you have to pay a small fee, I'd have a local mustang expert inspect it in person! I took another look- wrong radiator, valve covers look later model, headers? Not hi-po exhaust? questionable hi-po fuel pump, and that's with the blur---

 

the engine VIN is essential. EVERY 66 was wired for fog lights, so that GT factor isn't determining like a 65.

A VIN stamped block means nothing. We're talking about a newer 331 with a 66 VIN stamp which proves that point. The practice of stamping a VIN on block and trans varied by plant, Metuchen for example was not 100% in this practice. I'm one of those with day 1 documentation and no VIN stamp. I have also discussed this with Fred Ballard who has owned a few Metuchen cars without a stamp and at least 1 with a stamp. Fortunately Metuchen cars came with buck tags and many with build sheets that would also help to confirm authenticity of K and/or GT package.

I have never heard that all 66 cars came wired for fog lights. Do you have a source for that? I always thought they had a different under dash harness and other things. The determining factor (maybe) in 65 was a cutout in the dash to accommodate the 5 gauge cluster. This was done for Pony interiors also so it is not a guarantee

 

I have imported over 100 Mustangs in the past two years to the UK

The volume of dodgy VIN number K code (and others) cars I see here in the UK is frightening

I have seen at least 10 K code cars at shows and at least 8 had VIN numbers that were outright comical in appearance or had enough weirdness to know they were sketchy at best

I sold one of tge top K codes in the country about 8 months ago for a friend. K code registry and very well documented

I would get a very solid education before buying a K or other high performance factory model

This site is an excellent resource

Cheers Peter

 

Thanks again guys I’m getting some great information. The seller of this car is a mustang specialist importer here in Australia. He is saying in his description about this car about a fog light switch in the correct position and correct type also exhaust hanger mount in the right location etc
Basically it seems at best it’s a K code GT restomod. He talks about a 10/10 all sheet metal body and no expence build. This was done in the US in year 2000, so a long time ago and stored since. I guess all those years ago modification to a genuine K code GT was possibly acceptable but that’s much less so now ... I understand keeping one original is best.
I will find out who did the build in the US and run it past you guys again. I wont buy it until I find out it’s history in the US and verify it.
Yes I was buying a car in the hope it may increase in value that’s the purpose here ... otherwise I would just buy a C code Fastback highly modified resto mod as a toy and expect no real increase in value. But lots of fun for a cheaper price ( some of those are for sale here and they are more expensive )

 

The car is worth considerably less than $60K (US) - it would be worth $60K US if it were real and in perfect condition (meaning all the correct parts). Do not buy this car unless you want to lose about $25,000 the moment you sign the contract.

 

GT wiring

With the popularity of the fog lights in 65, there was a surge in dealer sales and demand for them. As a result, all 66's had the fog light wiring plugs so you could buy the kit from the dealer and install them yourself. The hole for the switch has always been there, as convertibles use it for the top motor switch and if it was a GT convert, they had 2 holes. Here's one of the articles that mentions there's a harness plug already in the harness. I know I've seen it in the past and worked on a number of them, but couldn't point to an old article off hand. The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Fog light wiring
The 65 harness was unique, as only the GT was wired for fog's.

 

The hole for the switch has always been there, as convertibles use it for the top motor switch and if it was a GT convert, they had 2 holes.

Hijack - So I've been looking for toploader for a 66 Hardtop that I have and was at my "local" Mustang supplier. They have a boneyard out back and told me they have a 65 convertible with a toploader in it. So I go check it out. Wide ratio and I'm looking for a close ratio. But while in the engine bay (the engine is gone), I notice the huge master cylinder, that would have came in a GT. Then I look at the 3 VINs on the fender aprons and all say it's a 66 "A" code. Disk brakes up front dual exhaust in the rear. I look for the fog switch (wiring harness is long gone) and there are 2 holes there. I thought to myself, why would someone put a hole beside the fog lamp switch? Thanks for clarifying that for me. Now I know Ford did it because they had to!!

Car is just too far gone to bring back in my opinion, just in case anyone is wondering...

Allen

 

Body: 76B Convertible, Pony Interior
Color: T Candyapple Red
Trim: 65 Red Crinkle Vinyl, Pony Interior
Date: 15L November 15, 1965
D.S.O: 53 Kansas City
Axle: 1 3.00:1, Conventional
Trans: 5 4-Speed Manual

The decoder on the car I mentioned above. Sweet ride at one point, it's painted white now and no GT stripes.

Allen

 

Thanks very much again to all who have advised me here. I’ve learnt that it’s way over priced even if a K code and the modifications while may look cool have reduced its value. It may have had a very expensive build 18 years ago when turning a genuine K code into a restomod may have been sort of ok!? I’m looking for something that’s going to increase in value. I do very much like the 66 fastbacks where online in the US do I look? I’ve just seen a genuine Shelby GT 350 on E Bay USA this is going up in price yes!? I’m currently Top bidder but reserve not met. What is this worth? Have a look yourself if pictures are grainy please. It’s under Mustang 1966 fastback E Bay. Thanks again in advance!