Just call CSRP and let them know what you are experiencing. They are great and will help you with any question. If you are missing a part, they will know what to do.

 

68 had a single piston caliper as stock when ordered with disk brakes.
no that spindle won't take a four piston caliper.
it's possible to put the calipers on wrong so the bleeder is at the wrong angle.

Geo Metro Brake Booster Issues - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum+

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/894050-granada-brakes-wont-bleed.html

 

Anyone have problems getting a hold of Dennis? I can only email him because of my work schedule, but it's been almost a week and haven't heard a reply from him.

 

Did you email me?

I have been completely in the weeds lately completing our home and warehouse move to Marble Falls. Moving 150 pallets of inventory and 25 years of household accumulation, and preparing a home for sale are task that I will NEVER undertake again.

 

Kid I guess we tried. Even my friend called CSRP. he was real short with him. Told him to cut his losses and go to the repairs himself. Even the shop tried contacting the owner of CSRP. Said he was not very helpful. He Had drums before the new kit with new spindle assemblies
so your saying the new mounting bracket for the single piston wont work for the Kelsey hayes style fixxed? I just want to make sure your stating that.

 

That is a strange response from CSRP. I've talked with them several times to get parts to fix up what the previous owner had on my latest project and got good service. I can understand that he may have seemed a bit short, he's a busy guy, and it is Texas. Things go at a little slower pace in Texas and may be perceived as being short.

'2nd 66' will be better at answering about the spindle, he'll be back at you in no time.

 

64.5 to 67 v8 spindle was designed for 4 piston calipers,same spindle for drum and disk just different hardware. 68 and later was designed for a single piston caliper .
Make certain you have the caliper bleeder screw clocked correctly before you blame the whole system.
It is also possible the master cylinder is leaking past the seals internal and not pushing fluid

 

Conversion is on a '68 Mustang..... is that correct?
If that is true and the car originally had drum brakes from the factory, the 4 piston
calipers will bolt up to those spindles with regular Kelsey Hayes brackets. I can't
guarantee the 4 piston calipers are any lighter than the '68 style 1 piston caliper.
The "dead weight" you mention of the calipers is a moot point anyway because its
unsprung weight.... 4 or 5 extra pounds means relatively little in the mathematics
from a handling standpoint.

To my knowledge, all aftermarket dial-adjustable valves can reduce pressure to
57%. (The lever style does offer a different amount by a percentage point or two)
The factory Kelsey Hayes (Mustang & Corvette) cast iron unit can be set for
various knee-points but I serious doubt they'll do 50/50. And I've never set one
at 50/50 in my 40 years....

As far as your pedal to the floor, it could be the single piston caliper clocking as
someone indicated or a bad master cylinder. I've seen many remanufactured
units that were bad right out of the box and I've seen more than a few brand
new ones that were just as bad.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

Great info guys. As for clicked you mean making sure
The bleeders are upright on each side. Will do I will be checking
It out this weekend. I have the CSRP 4 Pistons on my
65 Car is apart brakes are separated so I will try and
Bolt up my calipers to his set up. Hopefully the mounting will work
But he changed his oem spindles when they did the Single
Piston caliper conversion. Let's see how this plays out.
Guido��

 

Why wouldn't CSRP advise him to install a fix 4 piston caliper.

Because the 68 car came with the single piston brake.

Great info guys. As for clicked you mean making sure
The bleeders are upright on each side. Will do I will be checking
It out this weekend.

Well, if the bleeders are upright then you have your answer, the calipers are on the wrong sides.

It sucks we tried
everything pedal goes to the floor,bled it 15 times it stops but too much pedal
travel.

That's a classic symptom of calipers on the wrong sides.

 

Well sometimes the seller gets involved in a situation where the buyer-Buys, the installer "Tries" to install.

The dealers gets a lots of questions from the buyer, BECAUSE the installer is having problems, can't get this or that to fit/work Won't work-Wrong, on and on.

Then there are times the dealer will make contact with the installer to find out he is the type of "Mechanic" that can't screw in a light bulb.

The buyer which may have not qiute understood the specifics for the application.

SO, sometimes the buying, installing can sometimes be made much easier by a knowledgeable consumer, and installer.

Really not up to the dealer to "Teach/School" the public.

 

The CSRP Kelsey-Hayes type 4 piston disc brake set up is compatible with 67-69 Mustangs.

At any rate, the issues being experienced are installer fault, not manufacturer fault.

 

Sounds like your "indie" shop doesn't know what they are doing.
CSRP, has a good rep for their product.
Regarding vac, there are two types, I know of?
One, that stores engine supplied vac and the other that has is stand alone with it's own powered pump. You don't offer any details as to what vac your engine ("built engine,cam") is making, so, offering a solution that may work is a guess.
Pony up the more details and help will come.....
Happy Trails.........

 

I ALWAYS advise a buyer of all of their options. In the case of a 68, I would advise that our SWAP.1 KH type 4 piston kit is the most convenient and arguably best option for that application. I would then offer the 68-73 OE type SWAP.3 as an original choice. Then the SWAP.4 kit is offered as a performance option.

This buyer may well have purchased the kit from our internet site without our advise.

In any case, I spoke to the buyer yesterday about the situation. He explained that he had a shop install the kit and that the result was not good. I asked him what was wrong and tried to run through a diagnostic routine, but he was unable to communicate the problem. His narrative concerning the installer led me to believe that he was not being well served. I suggested that he "cut his losses" and take the car back from the installer, then research the install, and fix it himself. The buyer was clearly unable to embrace this idea and continued to imply that his purchase of the kit should have resulted in better results. My reminder that the kit performance is predicated on it being properly installed, did not impress him.

I offered to advise him with the install.

I have nothing to say to the OP. He is not involved in this issue.

 

His narrative concerning the installer led me to believe that he was not being well served. I suggested that he "cut his losses" and take the car back from the installer, then research the install, and fix it himself. The buyer was clearly unable to embrace this idea and continued to imply that his purchase of the kit should have resulted in better results. My reminder that the kit performance is predicated on it being properly installed, did not impress him.

I agree. Strange that the guy came here to gripe without any attempt to diagnose the situation.
Also strange that he's so quick to criticize the manufacturer rather than the clueless installer (bled it 15 times). After about twice, I would think that it wasn't going to solve the problem, but his installer thought otherwise. Shop is also recommending a 50/50 proportioning valve, which means I guess they want him to die.

Instead of trashing the manufacturer, they should dump the incompetent shop and find someplace better, I'm guessing any randomly selected repair chain like Midas or Pep Boys would be better.

 

Going back to bleeding.... Why not use a vacuum bleeder to do it yourself? It pulls the air out easily.
If you're looking for a vac reservoir, I use a basic crane can from summit. It's just a can with a check valve, but it works well. You can add a gauge to it also.

 

I've had my own business and I'm in a service related business. Some time no fault of the customer things go wrong. The harder you try to make it right the worse it gets. That could be the case here.

From experience in trouble shooting problems I can see it start right off the bat. Your friend should be telling us first hand. Details get lost as it passes from one person to the next. Does your friend have mechanical abilities? Since he has a shop doing the work I'm thinking he doesn't. What about the "Indy" shop? What are their qualifications? We've all read enough wheel alignment posts where guys have taken their car to a shop with the latest laser rack and the mechanic either scratching his A## because he doesn't have a clue on how to set up anything other than a strut suspension. Or they can't do it because their machine doesn't have the specs in the data bank. And oh, what about the guys who have had the shims fall out on the way home?

So when your friend ordered the kit from CSRP, what dis he ask for? What did he tell Dennis? I can guarantee you that there is another 68 owner out there looking to put discs on their car and if you sold them the 4 piston kit that would be on would be angry that they weren't sold the correct single piston version. CSPR for the most part is selling reproduction parts. If your friend wanted light weight parts, why didn't he do more research and ask questions before pulling the trigger? The big problem here is everything is getting passed off down the chain. We're hearing problems second and third hand. You can't solve anything that way.

On my 66 I had converted from a single piston to dual piston master cylinder with 4 wheel drums before converting to 72 single piston discs. Once done, I had the exact same problem. Pedal went to the floor and felt spongy like there was air in the system after bleeding the brakes. I already knew what the problem was, the pushed was the wrong one. It was too short. Maybe the "Indy" shop thought they could reuse the old push rod?

 

I'm pretty confident that the OPs story will finish falling apart on this one.

 

I agree with Huskinhano on this one. When I installed front discs on my '66 and used the correct proportioning valve, no matter how many times I bled the brakes the pedal would go to the floor with spongy brakes. I finally figured it was the wrong length mastercylinder pushrod that was the problem. Fixed that and the brakes work great with very little pedal travel and stops on a dime.

 

If you tell me about your "reputable shop" that "knows their stuff" and then you're having problems with a kit/parts a million people have installed/used successfully from a vendor I have personally had good experience with then you're... an idiot. And I'm not sorry to say that.

There's too many clowns with too much money in this hobby making terrible choices. Please stop messing around with classic cars. Buy a Civic or 240SX for your "reputable mechanic" to screw up, then complain to those dip****s over on their forums.