Vintage Mustang Forums banner

351 cam on a 302 block?

21K views 36 replies 15 participants last post by  2nd 66  
#1 ·
So i got a 1969 302 2V engine and want to beef it up a bit. I think ill add headers and a 4 barrel carb but i was wondering if it was possible to put in a 351 cam.

I know the Boss 302 has a 351

Does anyone know if my engine will work well with the bigger cams and is there anything special id need to do to accommodate for it?
 
#4 ·
the boss 302 has its own cam with the early windsor firing order. it uses a modified 351c head though.

the only difference between cams for a 302 and a 351w is the firing order. some 302/5.0s came with cams that used the 351w firing order though, so keep that in mind.

what cam you choose isnt based on displacement though, but rather what rpm range you are planning to run the engine in 80% of the time.
 
#5 ·
I would say you don't want a "351" cam, you want a mild performance cam. You can use a 351W cam in a 302 but often as not when stock, they are essentially the same thing. THe are lots and lots of choices in the aftermarket. Some cam companies (and many people here) can advise you on what sort of cam would likely work best for you if you nail down exactly what your engine will be like and what you want most from it. Cams tend to great at one thing and so-so on other things. The trick to getting the right one is balancing the compromises and being realistic.
 
#6 ·
The early 351 cam was used in the 1982-1984 5.0 Litre H.O. It has more lift and duration than the 289/302 cam shafts of the period, especially on the exhaust side. I've put that cam in more than few 289/302 engines and was quite pleased at the improvement. It's no racing cam, but works better than the stocker.

Since the Boss 302 heads got mentioned, here's a fun fact for you. Those "modified" Cleveland heads were cast in Windsor, Ontario, Canada. So, does that make it a Cleveland Windsor, or a Windsor Cleveland?
 
#7 ·
Since the Boss 302 heads got mentioned, here's a fun fact for you. Those "modified" Cleveland heads were cast in Windsor, Ontario, Canada. So, does that make it a Cleveland Windsor, or a Windsor Cleveland?
the cleveland designation was for the block being cast in cleveland ohio, as well as the heads when cleveland engine production began. it wasalso used to differentiate between the windsor engines, and the 335 series engines.
 
#17 ·
No, the motor is completely disassembled. I'm asking because if im going to do any changes nows the best time to do it.

Stock is the best way to go?
first thing you need to do is to decide what rpm range the engine is going to spend 80% of its time in. or decide what you are going to use the engine for. if you want a nice street motor, then you select parts that compliment each other in the 1000-5000 rpm range. that includes cam, intake, carb, headers, heads.

a recipe for building a nice street motor with decent power,

cam in the 1000-5000 rpm range, i like the comp cams he268h high energy grind. an older design, but still does the job nicely.

heads, most heads with an intake runner between 170-185cc works real nice for the street.

intake, the weiand stealth or the performer rpm work nice in that range.

for a carb, a 600cfm carb will feed the engine nicely

headers, for the street a nice set of tri-y headers with 1 1/2-1 5/8" primary tube, and dual exhaust with 2 1/4- 2 1/2" exhaust pipe work nicely as well.

this combination should make about 320hp at the flywheel, and have a nice flat torque curve that will make this a nice responsive engine on the street.
 
#9 ·
What I'm gathering is that a good 302 cam is better than a 351 cam and won't give any more power?
I want a bit more out of the engine than the stock will provide, whats the best way to do this?
Has the motor been rebuilt?

Seems like a silly question, but you’ll get the biggest Bang starting with a freshly rebuilt stock motor, vs carbing and camming a smoker.
 
#18 ·
It's the factory axle. If I were to replace this on a 69 fastback what would i go for?
Merging these two threads together so we’ll have the big picture on what you want to do.

Motor and rear end questions.
 
#12 ·
More info please. What are you trying to accomplish? Is the axle bad and you want something modern, are you looking for different gears for better off the line performance (any engine mods or future engine mods?) are you wanting to swap what I'm guessing is an 8 inch axle for a 9 inch axle?
 
#14 ·
like gregb said- what else are you doing? If the engine is remaining mostly stock with a few goodies, swap out the rear pumpkin for a 3:50 gear with posi. If you're adding considerable power to the engine, upgrade to a 9" housing with the same gearing (assuming yours is an 8" now). You could also score an 8.8 that already has disc brakes, 3:73 gears and a posi from an Explorer and install it- you'll need to convert to front discs as well if not already equipped. More info is really needed on what you're doing, what you want to do with it when done, and what your budget is before any direct recommendations can be made. Otherwise it's all preference choices, right? Sounds like a good time to be making changes though.
 
#16 ·
If it were me I’d have a shop inspect and clean up the block then I’d rebuild it myself.

If not, get a few quotes on rebuilding the short block. Then bring it in to the local shop that you picked for inspection. You can assembly it yourself from the short block on with time and basic tools; very easy.

If the crank is bad, think about stroking it. Otherwise look into a planned and proven assembly that will get you to the hp / tq range that you want to spend. You can buy a Kit that will have an established / proven dyno pull.


Don’t just take recommendations on speed part compatibility. You can’t just blindly throw money and pieces together. Think about what you’re building the motor for, realistically, then move ahead accordingly.
 
#19 ·
So for the entire car, what are your intentions and how much are you budgeting?

Street
Track
Both
Daily driver
Weekend toy

Most importantly,......what’s the budget?? This will dictate all of the others. :wink:
 
#24 ·
Street/daily driver. I spent $10,000 on the car in what i think was a good deal as its rust free and comes with "95% of the parts" (as the guy says...). I think the remaining budget for the car will be 20,000 +- $5,000. I want to keep it for a bit and enjoy it but eventually I'll sell it so I don't want to lose too much, although i might have to just bite the bullet. thanks for all the help
 
#20 · (Edited)
Before you do or buy anything, you may want to pick up a copy of "HOW TO REBUILD SMALL-BLOCK FORD ENGINES" and read it cover to cover. You may also want to watch the following video series posted by "Pete's Garage" on YouTube. Lots of good information there. Go to YouTube and watch his entire series. He covers the entire build of a Ford 351W and explains along the way. Also keep in mind that when choosing components, they are chosen based on the entire setup including: block, heads, exhaust, transmission, rear gear, etc.... To get the most out of your build, research first and come up with a complete game plan for the entire car. It's like building a house, you don't just start building and then say, "This looks like a good place for a room here". You do the entire design first, and then build it to spec. The same is true for a successful car build.

Engine Building Series
 
#21 ·
I've been talking to a few folks . . . from what I was told 355 gears are a nice step up from stock. If you plan on
a scoot around town, 355 gears with the common go fast parts, headers, cam, converter, intake, duel exhaust, H-pipe, again the usual run of the mill aftermarket parts. You should be happy with the results, but beyond the above stock result would be a much larger task.
I'm shooting for a scoot not a racer, I just want to be able to drive it around town and perhaps small trips with the wife.

Just a Thought, Enjoy.
 
#36 ·
Who else here has worked on old British cars and motorcycles ? When I started out in the late '60's at Triumph of OKC, Triumph was transitioning from British Standard, or Whitworth threads to American. Half of the motorcycle was Whitworth and half was American threads. Of course the older bikes in for repairs were all Whitworth. I had moved on to Japanese bikes before long (more $$$), so I don't know how long it took Triumph to move on to metric where they are today.


Z