Has anyone used this? I'm getting things in order for my winter project of painting my '65 and this seems like a good system, just wondering if anyone has had any problems with it. I've done my other two cars the old way with separate measuring cups and filters. Is 3M PPS 2.0 worth the extra dough? Should I get the 125-micron filter or is the 200 good enough? Does it save a lot of time on cleanup? I'll only be spraying epoxy primer, base, and clear with this. I have a different gun for high build primer.
C-Woods-70
I don’t have the 3m version, but use a similar setup called DeKups From Devilbiss. Saves a s*** ton of time on cleanup IMO. And allows the gun the spray in any position…..was well worth the investment to me.
I have the Devilbiss system too, you can't go wrong with either one. You can literally turn the gun upside down to spray tight areas. When I bought mine the Devilbiss system was cheaper, that's my only reason for choosing it over 3M.
I use the 3M PPS 2.0 almost daily and it generally works very well. For epoxy, base and clear, a 125 micron strainer is perfect for both solvent and water based paints. The 200 would be good for things like heavy surfacers and hi-builds. Clean-up is very easy and uses little solvent when you get your routine down.
Unfortunately, there are a few quirks I don't like in the 2.0 design over the 1.0. The worst is the increased fluid volume between the filter screen and the gun (3m touts this as a good thing BTW). Basically, if you leave the cap screens in place, there will always be about 2 oz of paint in the cup & gun you simply cant get to feed because the liner pastes itself against the screen and causes the gun (ANY gun) to sputter like you've run out of paint. My work around for that is to rip every screen out of the caps and strain everything going into the cups the old fashioned way. This way, when the gun quits feeding, you absolutely KNOW you're out of paint.
Secondly, and more minor, is the 2.0 cups are larger diameter than most of the old 1.0 cups. This isn't a big deal but it gets a little tricky when you're using a mini gun to get into tricky, tight places like engine bay corners, etc without bumping the cup into wet surfaces. Finally, they cost too damned much IMO. Always have. All that into consideration, I'm kinda "married" to the system and couldn't imagine doing without it. SO much better than a standard gravity cup or siphon gun.
Unfortunately, there are a few quirks I don't like in the 2.0 design over the 1.0. The worst is the increased fluid volume between the filter screen and the gun (3m touts this as a good thing BTW). Basically, if you leave the cap screens in place, there will always be about 2 oz of paint in the cup & gun you simply cant get to feed because the liner pastes itself against the screen and causes the gun (ANY gun) to sputter like you've run out of paint. My work around for that is to rip every screen out of the caps and strain everything going into the cups the old fashioned way. This way, when the gun quits feeding, you absolutely KNOW you're out of paint.
Secondly, and more minor, is the 2.0 cups are larger diameter than most of the old 1.0 cups. This isn't a big deal but it gets a little tricky when you're using a mini gun to get into tricky, tight places like engine bay corners, etc without bumping the cup into wet surfaces. Finally, they cost too damned much IMO. Always have. All that into consideration, I'm kinda "married" to the system and couldn't imagine doing without it. SO much better than a standard gravity cup or siphon gun.
I'm just learning to paint myself and have been using that system. It has worked well, but my main complaint is that when the container gets low, the paint stops flowing. Kind of important right? Especially when paint costs what it does. I think it needs some sort of pressure release valve or hole or something.
I started using the 1.0 system when I painted my car earlier this year. Was very happy with it. One thing to note, the 1.0 system is 100% compatible with the MUCH cheaper PPS setup at HF, so cups/liners/lids are much easier on the wallet. I used that on a pair of SATA 5000 series guns (1 HVLP, 1 HTE). My favorite part of using them was that I was able to mix up paint in multiple cups at once, so when one ran out, I just popped it off, grabbed the next one and kept shooting.
I used the Devilbiss Dekups setup.
Man do they save you clean up time! They also make it very easy to see the quantity of paint left in the cup.
But, they're not cheap. So you have to determine whether it's worth the cost to use them.
Right now, I'm shooting a lot of self-etch primer on my plane, and am not using the Dekups.
Clean up is taking longer, but I'm shooting so many small batches that the extra cost involved isn't worth it.
Man do they save you clean up time! They also make it very easy to see the quantity of paint left in the cup.
But, they're not cheap. So you have to determine whether it's worth the cost to use them.
Right now, I'm shooting a lot of self-etch primer on my plane, and am not using the Dekups.
Clean up is taking longer, but I'm shooting so many small batches that the extra cost involved isn't worth it.
As an alternative, I am using the MPS cup system from TCP Global. Cheaper than the 3M products and works well. This system uses a similar but not interchangeable adapter. You can not use MPS cups and a 3M adapter, or PPS cups and a MPS adapter. If you are looking for functionality and saving a few bucks, consider the MPS system as an option.
tcpglobal.com
MPS Disposable Spray Gun Cups & Liners
Huge supplier of Automotive Paint, Auto Body Supplies, Airbrush Equipment, Car Detailing Supplies, Pinstripe Paint, Spray Guns & Safety Respirators at Wholesale Prices. Our items are factory direct and we carry a wide variety of Top Quality Brands.
tcpglobal.com
Thanks for all the good info. It looks like there are some cheaper versions, and even the HF version has a high percentage of good reviews. I will definitely get one of the brands, Now I'll just have to make a decision. Again, all the info is appreciated.
I went with DeKups too. It is working really good. These systems are great if you are priming and/or painting a significant number of parts separately from the basic body of the car.
Just to follow up, we have a Harbor Freight in town so as cheap as their Spectrum system is, I bought a starter kit and a 10 pack of refills and figured I would try it on the primers. It worked great, so I went ahead and used it on the base and clear. No problems at all, it worked flawlessly.
Three things to keep in mind. The cups you are replacing are thin and sometimes two can be stuck together which makes it almost impossible to seat down in the measuring cup, not to mention wasting a cup. Separating them with a cup full of paint is possible, although tricky. Second, the reusable measuring cup has a hole in the bottom of it, so don’t forget to put the disposable cup in before you start pouring paint in, or you will leak paint all over your work bench. Yes I did that. Third, after doing some research on line I was “burping“ the gun after every refill by turning it upside down and spraying until paint came out. I found that this causes the cup to fully collapse and trap paint as someone above had described. I quit burping the gun and this problem all but went away. If I was getting low on paint I would disconnect air, turn gun upside down and pull trigger and the partially collapsed cup would un-collapse and I was able to use every bit of paint.
Cleanup was much quicker and easier.
Anyway, thought I would pass along my experience.
I have bought a few things from HF that were junk, but not this system. I was a winner.
Three things to keep in mind. The cups you are replacing are thin and sometimes two can be stuck together which makes it almost impossible to seat down in the measuring cup, not to mention wasting a cup. Separating them with a cup full of paint is possible, although tricky. Second, the reusable measuring cup has a hole in the bottom of it, so don’t forget to put the disposable cup in before you start pouring paint in, or you will leak paint all over your work bench. Yes I did that. Third, after doing some research on line I was “burping“ the gun after every refill by turning it upside down and spraying until paint came out. I found that this causes the cup to fully collapse and trap paint as someone above had described. I quit burping the gun and this problem all but went away. If I was getting low on paint I would disconnect air, turn gun upside down and pull trigger and the partially collapsed cup would un-collapse and I was able to use every bit of paint.
Cleanup was much quicker and easier.
Anyway, thought I would pass along my experience.
I have bought a few things from HF that were junk, but not this system. I was a winner.
I have used the 3M PPS 1.0 pressurized cup and sprayed Second Skin Spectrum sound deadener and used the 1.0 & 2.0 for epoxy primer, urethane, polyester, base and clear coat and am very pleased with the results. Cleanup is super easy and quick using a spray can cleaner or squeeze bottle with a nozzle which especially works great between coats, seal the paint cup with one of the 3M caps. My other guns I dont intend using ever again, too much messing about. Highly recommend.
The last shop I worked at, we used the pps 1.0, then changed to the 2.0 when they came out. To be honest, I preferred the 1.0 system. The biggest mistake is just making sure the lids seal well and don't push the liners down when you install them. You don't need to burp the air out unless you have to spray upside down. Usually I'd stop at halfway or so, and take the air line off, turn it over and pull the trigger to reinflate the liner, never had any trouble getting the last out.
The shop I'm at now uses the Sata cups, not as good a system for the upside down painting, and the cups tend to pressurize, so when you shake up an old cup and pop the cap off the lid, it tends to belch paint all over. I'm in the habit of only doing so over a trash can, pointed away from my shirt (I'll bet you can guess why).
Kind of intrigued to see the HF setup. Will have to look into it for my next project.
The shop I'm at now uses the Sata cups, not as good a system for the upside down painting, and the cups tend to pressurize, so when you shake up an old cup and pop the cap off the lid, it tends to belch paint all over. I'm in the habit of only doing so over a trash can, pointed away from my shirt (I'll bet you can guess why).
Kind of intrigued to see the HF setup. Will have to look into it for my next project.
Hadn’t seen the HF cup setup. I’ve been using DeKups for quite a while now. The investment is in the adapters to the gun.
I am using the MPS cup system and adapter from TCP Global. I am happy so far. I have used it for 2K epoxy and top coat so far with good results. A bit cheaper than the 3M PPS system.
A note, they systems are not compatible, so no interchangeability.
A note, they systems are not compatible, so no interchangeability.
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