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66 T Code - T is for Transformation / R Model Wanna’ B

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#41 · (Edited)
Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage).

Read every club's rules before you start spending money!

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe.
Stich weld every metal joint.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through.
Roller perches
Adj strut rods
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting!
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon.
Ask lots of questions.
Lose the coil spring covers.
Use hood pins.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC/firewall that goes to the shock tower.
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid.
Switch to braided brake lines.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me :)
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
silverblueBP said:
Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage). Thank you for the advice!!

Read every club's rules before you start spending money! Will do.

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.Roger.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later. Looking at forged from RPM.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe. May need a bit of guidance here.
Stich weld every metal joint. Wow...Ok.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through. Roger that.
Roller perches Will do.
Adj strut rods Will do.
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount. Will do.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement. Agreed, will go Bilstein.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting! Never thought about it, thanks.
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences. Never thought about it, thanks.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon. Understood.
Ask lots of questions. Get ready. :grin2:
Lose the coil spring covers. ?
Use hood pins.Will do.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee. Will have to research.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader. Will have to research.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac. Will have to research.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods. Will have to research.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC that goes to the ?
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid. Roger. Will have to research.
Switch to braided brake lines. Will do.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me :) Did you see the heads I bought? Not sure if they are shaft rockers or not but will find out.
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track. Dammit man.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell. Already done...lol.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires. Never thought about it.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die. Pretty picture, thanks!! Will do.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive. Roger.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop. Roger.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better. Roger.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable. Never thought about it, thanks.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!
Click to expand...
Ahhh, the goal!!

Thanks Mark, not only for the help so far, but the advice to come.

Allen
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
#46 ·
patrickstapler said:
This is the firewall brace Mark is talking about...Hane Performance, LLC

Based on the pics you showed me of the heads, they are not shaft mount. A good set will cost you about $1200. An excellent set (like Mark runs) will be twice that.
Click to expand...
Noooooo, an excellent set will cost $1,200-1,400.
 
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#48 ·
Cool build! See there is a place for coupes. I have to chuckle a little bit. My race track experience consist of a charity event and 1 autocross event and I seem to be getting the notoriety of having more track time. But the little bit I’ve tasted, I love it.

I’m on a low budget so a street car it is but it’s a fun street car!
 
#49 ·
patrickstapler said:
Sweeet! Buy the excellent set....
Click to expand...
But all of these trick, cool, expensive parts won't be worth it unless you make those heads BREATH. Meaning lots of time and $$. Anyone can buy/build the bottom end with good parts. It's the work that goes into the heads that differentiates the fast cars.
 
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Discussion starter · #55 ·
#58 ·
If you plan on using those heads (not sure why though), that is a good starting point to work from. You need to decide what is to be done to them to make them breathe better. You'll need those flow numbers to give to a competent cam builder. How many CC's will the combuster chambers end up at. Will they need to be milled down? What type and ratio of rockers to use. Although, a good cam maker will help you answer those questions.

A road race motor is not your average amount of work. Unless you don't care how long it lasts.
 
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