Personally, I would say go with the a la carte. Use the kit as a reference for what parts are needed.

I did the kit for the front and rear. I have since had to replace the rear leaf springs because of poor quality. I have also replaced various other parts because I did not do enough research before hand. For example, the kit came with an idler arm, but later I wanted the roller idler arm. Double charge for buying parts twice.

Just my $0.02 worth. If not fully satisfied with my advice, feel free to request a full refund.

 

My 2¢ is agreement with your 2¢. Examine the whole front end. The car may only actually need half of that kit.

The 1" bar and "drop" will transform the car. The money saved on parts can be put toward the premium quality export brace. Do it all at once.

The Arning/Shelby upper control arm "drop"

 

That kit looks good to go. BUT - I would say if you are happy with your ride height, skip the springs. It does not say if the sway bar is oversize or not. If it is just a 6 cyl. sway bar, yours is just as good, skip that too.

With the money you just saved, get a bigger than stock sway bar and the best shocks you can afford...you are now the winner!

 

I was going round and round with this several months ago. I ended up buying my parts from Shaun at Street or Track. I have yet to assemble the front suspension, but most of the parts are Scott Drake and are very good quality. I also went with roller perches which came from Open Tracker.

Why not do the Shelby Drop? Unless your car is concours, and you don't want the extra holes in your shock towers, I would say definitely do the Arning/Shelp drop. Just be sure to get the proper alignment when you're done with the suspension rebuild. (The Shelby drop requires a unique alignment spec.)

As long as you don't drop the upper control arms more than 1", you don't have to worry about getting wedges for the ball joints, or anything like that. The factory style components will work fine with a 1" drop. And for a street car, there's no reason to go more than 1" with the drop.

 

I re-did my front end last year. I would not buy that kit nor would I buy anything from CJ's. Too many bad dealings with them. As for the kit? Who's parts are they? If I'm going to rip apart my front suspension, I don't want to do it twice because of poor quality parts. SoT sells nothing but top quality parts either stock replacement or performance. If this car is a driver, absolutely do the Arning drop. If you have a welder and some air tools, at $100 the camber kit may be worth thinking about but not absolutely needed but nice. Ditto for adjustable struts. The struts make it a little easier to dial in a little more caster. With the two it gives a lot more latitude on alignment. Again, not needed but nice. With the adjustable struts my car stops dead straight no matter what even with my front drums.

Bottom line, buy top quality parts and only what you need.

 

Milo, I'm in the same boat as you. That is my next big project that I plan to do sometime this year. I'm learning as I go and will follow this thread to see other people's experiences and advice are. My front suspension is pretty worn! Also would like to know if there are any specialty tools that one doesn't normally keep in the tool box needed to do this job other than the spring compressor? Since the only thing that is not being changed is the spindle, do we need a joint puller?

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the responses... regarding skipping the springs... I thought I'd replace them just because I don't know how old they are, but I'm assuming they're at least from 1985 because that's when the PO went through the car. I've already replaced the rears because they were shot. But if it won't change anything, there's no reason to do it. Is there a test or anything else I could do to judge whether they're indeed the same as a new pair would be?

I do want to get a bigger-than-stock sway bar and if the Shelby drop will actually make a difference, I'm fine with the extra holes. I guess my question was whether the drop makes a difference in the 200 since the weight of the car in general is so much lighter than the 289s. My overall goal is to compensate if possible for the difference in handling and feel on these 14-inch tires vs what I'd get if I were able to go to 15s or 16s, which I don't really plan to do.

 

The drop is absolutely worth it. The size of the engine doesn't matter... it changes the steering geometry for the better.

 

Shelby drop is a go.....the springs are up to you. Does the front end sit where you like it? The way springs go bad is by dropping down or breaking. If it sits where you want it - keep your springs.

That brings up the problems of getting new springs:

1. Where is the ride height going to be?
2. How stiff or soft is the ride going to be?
3. Are they going to sag too far and leave you wanting/needing to replace them?

Many folks have bought many sets of springs trying to get it right. For your daily driver - the job of the springs is to support the car. Are they doing that? If not replace them.

 

+1 on reconsider the springs and height. The ones you have may be old and stock and settled to a nice height and newer copies may raise it to where you dont like it for years. Bouncy or to stiff? thats in the shocks, a good place to spend a little more, also in the spring perches. Im thrifty so id get the tie rods from a local auto parts, lifetime warranty and easier to exchange.

Ill ask this for you because ive been wondering myself. When it comes to the Upper and lower control arms what can really go wrong with them unless the bushings were worn out then over driven hard afterwards or in a wreck. Im wondering if the originals are given new bushings if they may be better/as good than any stock repops available.

 

Another thing to at least consider, if not toss out. Is it ever going to be converted to a V-8. If there is such a possibility, you might want to think about those "V-8" things that might be installed while it's apart. Jus say'n.

 

I'm not an expert on coil springs. But in my experience, which involves two Mustangs and a Cougar as daily drivers for many years on end, coil springs lose their effectiveness as they age. The front end starts to sit lower, which some people like. But the car also doesn't ride or corner as well.

I would suggest some new, street performance springs. Use the standard insulators at first. If the car sits where you want it, leave it. If the car is too low, you can just buy some 1" or 2" insulators. No big deal as long you've got a good spring compressor, which you should have anyway for the rebuild.

Polyurethane 1" Coil Spring Insulators for 1964-73 Mustangs

 

I had no luck with "1" or 2" insulators". gave it an honest try - just not structurally sound in my opinion.

all new parts, Shelby drop, progressive springs, bump steer kit, a max caster adjustment made mine handle dramatically better as a daily driver in ripped up roads. my endless research is to continue to improve the first inch of travel (pure smoothness/comfort) as actual steering control/ride is really good. next step in chasing first inch is roller perches.

 

I tried "gt" springs only to find out after installing them that there a lower stiffer spring- the stiffness I didn't mind but the car sat to low (with the arning drop). I ended up buying springs from eaton detroit spring- I bought the springs for the hipo and the car sits perfect now. When I change engines later this year (much lighter 347) if the car sits to high I'll cut a bit off the coils. Anyway, I'd change the front springs and at least rebuild or replace the upper control arms (probably whats squeeking away on your car). Replace the strut rod bushings (make sure you use rubber ones) and the heavier sway bar, heavier export brace, spring perches, and some good shocks. John

 

The thing I'd worry about with a kit like that is the quality of the upper A-arms. Many Mustang suppliers offer a couple of grades of A-arms and the low grade ones are not recommended. Chances are in a kit like that, they wouldn't be the best quality.

If you can research how to rebuild the original A-arms it's the best way to end up with the strongest unit.

 

Just in a brief look around the web (including this forum) about rebuilding UCAs, it sounds like it's somewhat difficult and easy to do it wrong. Would I be better off replacing, provided I go with a quality part like MOOG rather than whatever's cheapest?

 

When I looked at the UCA rebuild kits, they were priced only slightly lower than new, complete UCAs. As I said earlier, I went with the Scott Drake UCAs and they are very nice.

When I was looking around for parts, I read a few tales of people expressing disappointment with some of the less expensive front end components. They are stamped from metal thinner than the factory parts and, apparently, they don't last very long.

 

If you aren't going to rebuild, then sure, find full assemblies with the best reputation you can and you'll be good.

I didn't find rebuilding the UCA's tough. I made spacers from angle iron the correct length to keep the arms spaced out and the rest was just using an air torque gun to drive the big nuts back on. They cut their own threads into the arms.

 

Brian,

Try Rockauto.com.

It lists all the manufacturers they have for each particular part so you can see what you're getting, but you have to shop a la carte. Personally I would pick MOOG everything I can! They even have the original coil springs.

If nothing else it will give you a decent comparison between the kit price vs. individual components.

As far as the uppers go, I rebuilt mine with no issues. NPD (and I'm certain others as well) sells an improved shaft kit - Mustang SHAFT KIT UPPER CONTROL ARM IMPROVED | 3047-1A | NPD . I don't think MOOG makes the uppers anymore. I think they are made by Dorman.

The 1" sway bar I would stick with CJ's or NPD or Mustangs Plus or whomever.

I originally bought one of those kits and ended up sending it back. Much of what was included was less than top of the line. It wasn't bought from CJ's but the point is you don't really know what you are getting until you receive it.

 

Thanks everyone. Frank... I actually did do that the other day and seemed to be coming up with a better overall kit than the CJ one. Where I got nervous was when it wasn't clear if I was buying the right part or if Rock didn't have some of the parts described in the kit.

I think what I'll probably end up doing is getting everything I can from there and then the rest from CJ or NPD or something.

 

On springs, if you like the way your car rides, leave 'em. If they are banging on the stops, get rid of them (assuming your shocks are good). The Arning drop will raise your car at least 1/2 inch so if you are replacing springs because of sagging springs, keep that in mind. If you cut the springs to get the ride height lower, it will stiffen them a little. Lots of things to play with without buying springs yet. You can always go there later...


As for tools, it is always good to have a Mustang correct spring compressor. Simple enough to make if you have the skills (over size the threads, I went 3/4") otherwise they are not very expensive.

I have the ability to rebuild UCAs but Scott Drakes can be purchased very inexpensively, the difference is peanuts and worth the peace of mind. I found them surprisingly cheap at Dallas Mustang even taking into account CJ free shipping. Too many things get old, threads get worn, crossed etc, I would also look at Opentrackers as they weld a piece of metal to keep the caps from backing off on SD (I think) UCAs, a mod all the do-it-yourselfers and racers do.

IMHO, take apart, assess what needs to be replaced and what doesn't, buy what you need. Lots of articles out there on this job, probably a youtube or two also.

Good Luck,

M

 

The Arning drop will raise your car at least 1/2 inch so if you are replacing springs because of sagging springs, keep that in mind.

Really, the 1" Arning drop will raise the car by 1/2"? Good to know. Maybe I'll order the 1" shorter springs when it comes time for me to do my front suspension.

Thanks!

 

+1 on the Scott Drake UCA and LCA's

 

He meant lower it by about 5/8 of an inch.

 

OK, makes more sense.
Thanks

 

Replacing sagging springs will almost certainly RAISE the car once installed, but that would just be back to the original height(minus 5/8 if you do the Arning). They will sit higher until they settle, too.

 

This place has some very reasonable pricing on their stuff, I think
1965-73 Suspension Kit 4 - Missouri Mustang

 

Looking at this kit but for a 69 myself when I'm ready. They are Scott Drake. You can buy the other items separately if needed and not force into a bunch of other items you don't intend to replace. Pretty good price. I'm just not ready to do mine yet. Other gremlins I'm still dealing with.

1964 1965 1966 Mustang Suspension Kit Upper Lower Control Arms with Saddles 6pc | eBay