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Clayed my Mustang today...What a difference!

3.1K views 24 replies 21 participants last post by  Meyer65  
#1 ·
I've always kept my Mustang very clean, never driven it in the rain in the two years since I have done most of the resto, and washed it fairly regularly.

I have done a clay treatment on other cars before, but those were in obvious need and had a lot of contaminants that needed to be removed. I never really thought about doing the Mustang because it has always been kept clean and the paint was farily smooth - but I had some clay and time to kill, so I went ahead and did it. Holy cow, I could not believe how much crud was pulled off what I thought was a very clean car. The shot below is just from doing half of the roof - and keep in mind this was a car I had just washed.

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8760/clay2kx8.jpg

I finished the treatment up with a polish and wax, and it's unbelievable how smooth the paint is now. If you have never clayed a car, I suggest giving it a shot. For those who have never heard of claying, Autopia has a good write up.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, the clay is pretty amazing stuff. When Scary came back from the paint shop, there was some black marks on the right quarter panel that I couldn't get off by just washing the car. I got a Mother's Clay Bar kit, and put it to use on that quarter. It took the black off and really made the paint even smoother than the rest of the car, and this was just a month or 2 after it had been painted, wet sanded and buffed.
 
#7 ·
I do both my coupe and my F-250. Haven't had to do the fastback yet. I clay bar the coupe every couple of years and the truck at least once a year, often more. Although you can use a diluted solution of dishwashing soap and water, I prefer to use the Mother's detailing spray. It just seems to work the best for me.

I'm working on detailing my coupe for the Las Vegas National right now and checked to see if it needed the claybar treatment--nope, not yet.

When you're using the clay, keep kneading it to get a clean surface. And, if you drop it on the ground, get rid of it. Because it is easy to drop when doing the sides of the car, I always put clean towels on the ground along the car. That way, if I do drop the claybar, it remains clean and doesn't pick up tiny dirt and stone particles that will destroy paint.
 
#9 ·
The clay bars are great stuff. We use Meguiars. Try to do all the cars once a year.

Who'd a thunk it, rubbing a hunck of clay on your paint would be a good thing. Then again somebody had to be the first person to try drinking cow's milk, and they had to be a good salesman to get the second person to try it. Especially after they asked where it came from.
 
#11 ·
I think it's a good idea to clay the car every time polish or wax is applied. It certainly is amazing what the clay picks up, even on a "clean" car. I've been claying my cars since I got my first Mustang at 16. It sure is easier to find nowadays, I had to have a detail shop buy it for me from a supplier in the past.
 
#16 ·
I know you can buy the clay separately through Zaino at www.zainostore.com. It should also be noted that the clay comes in different consistencies...remember not to use too harsh of a bar.

Clay can easily damage decals, including stripe kits. Be careful and work around them, for the clay will easily rough the edges of your stripes.
 
#17 ·
I buy most of my stuff from either Autopia or Autogeek. Both of them sell the clay alone, but by the time you had it shipped it would be about the price of a Mothers or Meguiars clay kit you can buy over the counter. Probably the most inexpensive clay kit I have seen is Clay Magic. Around here Autzone sells it for about $10, and that's including the lubricant.

I used the Sonus ultra fine clay from Autopia. It's probably one of the mildest clays out there, so if your car is in pretty good shape already (like your Californina Special), I would reccomend it. Right now they are having a special where you get two big bars of Ultra Fine and a bar of block clay (which is a little more aggressive)for under $20. That's a really good deal when you consider how much clay you get.

In all honesty, I don't really like the spray as a lubricant. After I wash it, I just use some clean car shampoo and a wash mit in one hand and the clay in the other. It goes quite a bit faster. Meguiars NXT car shampoo has a lot of lubricity and works great. Just make sure you keep the surface really wet.
 
#20 ·
I use the zaino's system on my PT cruiser.I never used the claybar until this spring and I wish i had.Even my wife noticed..hehehe.Zaino sells everything seperately but I recomend unisg the system,great stuff.It even cleaned up my 66 coupe a bit
 
#22 ·
Quick clay bar tips (for clay n00b's like me):

Wash the car with Dawn, and liberally. Twice. Then rinse well.

Then take the wash water/soap and rub on a lot onto a section of the car. Take the clay bar and rub it back and forth on the paint until the gritty feeling goes away. Don't press hard at all. Just go back and forth, and let the weight of the bar be all the pressure you have. Rinse the section and go on to the next section.

When you have clayed the car, wash afgain to remove any small pieces of clay remnants and rinse.

Apply at least one, preferrably 2 or more, coats of polish, then use your wax of choice. The paint will be as smooh as (fill in smooth preference here).

What takes so long in this process is the polishing. If you want a deep shine, you can't pass up this step. This is what puts moisture into the clear coat/paint, and adds depth. The wax/polymer you use seals it all in. I do this to the 2003 Mach, and the paint looks as good as delivery day 3 years ago. It is still as smooth as glass, too. I have yet to clay my 65 coupe, but from the looks of EJD68's clay bar, it is probably a good idea to!
 
#24 ·
Meyer65 said:
Don't feel too bad Craig, I had no idea until I mysteriously started getting the Griots catalog. Nobody is perfect, but some of us think we are (yes Midlife, I'm looking at you :))
Why Derek, I've never thought of you being perfect... :rofl: