Yes. Run the VR1.

 

Can we make starting oil threads a rule violation or less extreme just make a separate sub forum?

 

We need a poll on that!

 

The best oil is the one you change every 5,000 miles or at least once a year, whichever cones first.

Zt

 

Ever notice that 1998 f150 the landscapers are using, pulling a skidster with 3000lbs of sod in the bed, foot to the floor at all times? It has oil in it, any oil, doesn't matter. This hobby and it's fixation with oil is wild.

 

Curved Monte Carlo bar is the best.

 

I’ve been running Lucas 10w40 hot rod oil but wanted to try something with less PPM (2100). I was thinking of VR1 which is 10w30. I only drive the car during nice weather with temp ranges from 40-90 degrees.
VR1 10w30 a good choice for flat tappet engines? I’d rather stick to Dino oil.

Well, there is no place but up for an oil choice from Lucas Hot Rod oil, so any change is good.

There really is no compelling reason to stick with Dino oil. For years price was the differentiator for me. Now synthetics are so close to the same price why not use a product that holds up longer.

 

Some "synthetics" are dino oil that have been processed to the point where their quality qualifies them to be called and sold as synthetic. Stuff like that blurs the line between dino and synthetic enough that I no longer worry about it.
I'll second that just about anything is better than that Lucas Hot Rod oil. That they sell such stuff makes me suspicious of everything else they sell.

 

Woodsy , totally agree we seem to be OCD on everything with our classics . Baby only gets the best of the best

 

As I understand it, most synthetic oil is synthesized petroleum and very few synthetic oils are actually synthetic material.

You know, I always enjoy motor oil threads. They're lively, yet polite here on VMF.

Oh, and I expect most people use the term "dino" just for fun. But some people are under the impression petroleum really comes from dead dinosaurs which is not the case. I think that all started back in the 70s with Chevron commercials showing dinosaurs and, further back, the Sinclair oil dinosaur. "Fossil fuel" comes from ancient organisms, but not dinosaurs.

 

Oh, and I expect most people use the term "dino" just for fun. But some people are under the impression petroleum really comes from dead dinosaurs which is not the case. I think that all started back in the 70s with Chevron commercials showing dinosaurs and, further back, the Sinclair oil dinosaur. "Fossil fuel" comes from ancient organisms, but not dinosaurs.

Well, I once had a quart of oil that had a dinosaur toenail in it, but maybe that was an exception that confirms the rule.....

 

I’ve been running Lucas 10w40 hot rod oil but wanted to try something with less PPM (2100). I was thinking of VR1 which is 10w30. I only drive the car during nice weather with temp ranges from 40-90 degrees.
VR1 10w30 a good choice for flat tappet engines? I’d rather stick to Dino oil.

Are you using a Fram filter with that Hot Rod oil?

 

Some "synthetics" are dino oil that have been processed to the point where their quality qualifies them to be called and sold as synthetic. Stuff like that blurs the line between dino and synthetic enough that I no longer worry about it.
I'll second that just about anything is better than that Lucas Hot Rod oil. That they sell such stuff makes me suspicious of everything else they sell.

As I understand it, most synthetic oil is synthesized petroleum and very few synthetic oils are actually synthetic material.

You know, I always enjoy motor oil threads. They're lively, yet polite here on VMF.

Oh, and I expect most people use the term "dino" just for fun. But some people are under the impression petroleum really comes from dead dinosaurs which is not the case. I think that all started back in the 70s with Chevron commercials showing dinosaurs and, further back, the Sinclair oil dinosaur. "Fossil fuel" comes from ancient organisms, but not dinosaurs.

Correct. Most "synthetic" oils use "conventional" base stocks which are chemically synthesized to change their molecular structure (Group III oils). There are also Group IV (PAO) and Group V (Ester, Silicone, Polyglycol) oils. Group V Ester oils are very pure.

 

WHATS wrong with lucas oil?

 

It's basically cheap, low-quality oil with a lousy additives package and a very big marketing campaign.

 

Of all the discussions I’ve seen about oil, I rarely recall anyone adding something like ZDDPlus to whatever oil they are using.

 

There have been discussions about that and the consensus is: DON'T! From what I've seen is that manufacturers have additives in their oils that are formulated to play nice with each other. When someone adds something like ZDDP+ to the mix, it messes up the formulation with unknown results. The best thing to do is go with an oil that already has the correct amounts of ZDDP in it already. I live in AZ and run Mobil 1 15W-50 year round with no issues. If the OP wants to run just "dino" oil, then I've read only positive things about VR-1 and is now being carried by more retailers. Seeing Lucas Hot Rod with almost twice the amount of ZDDP than what has been recommended makes me wonder what's going on there. Just because there is more doesn't mean it is better.

 

Woodchuck just loves to hate on synthetic. Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic is a Group III base oil (aka conventional base stock). It is miles better (pun intended) than a Valvoline oil labeled "conventional."

 

Having been on here for 2+ decades, I don't recall Woodchuck hating on synthetic oil. Pointing out that most synthetic oils start with a conventional base stock is just stating a fact.

 

Not to dive off into the weeds, but for the last 4 oil changes in my F450, I've been sending samples to these guys. It's pretty informational, they look for trends (metals, contaminants, etc.), and they advise (a little) on oil types and change intervals.

Blackstone Laboratories Blackstone Laboratories

"Without data, you're just another person with an opinion." - W. Edwards Deming

 

I’m all for exploring, and exploring oil is no different. I will try something that purports to be “better”. But after a while I’d like to see some evidence that “better” actually exists.

using a good quality synthetic oil has provided me with that evidence.

Not a real scientific double blind test, but real world driving, driving hard as possible and still not lose the old drivers license.

Under rough driving conditions and 88,000 miles after an overhaul, I expected to see some wear on the cylinder walls, wear on the main and rod bearings. Certainly some significant piston scuffing.

All of those identifiers of wear have been normal occurrences when I used conventional oil. But things changed with the switch to Mobil 1 15w-50 and Mobil 1 0w-40.

No measurable wear anywhere in the engine, no scuffing on the pistons, the bearings looked brand new, and so did the lifters and camshaft.

What’s not to like ?

Z

 

At one point Mobil 1 was supposedly the only real 'synthetic' oil. They have always done a good job marketing it including to some OEMs that put in on their oil cap.
Not a scientific experiment, but in my 20+ years in the auto service business I never saw a sludged engine that had records showing synthetic oil changes. They always without fail showed 'bulk' or Pennzoil(sorry you guys from the NE). Realistically, it's more about the frequency of changing it and getting the engine oil to operating temp than it is what oil you're using. Yes there's the 'best' oil I guess, but whoever's willing to spend that coin is the same person who will change it religiously and drive the car like it should be driven.
Now onto my next marketing project: Verified T-Rex oil!

 

On 10/9 my 66' I got a month ago is going in the shop,wondering what oil they will recommend ?

 

Oil threads are definitely interesting and I really have nothing to add other than with all of the engines I and others around me built back in the day not to mention the 1000s of oil changes the dealership (I worked at) performed - running anything and everything oil wise from pre and post synthetic…. None of the engine/component failures I worked were related to a no kidding “oil quality” issue.

Being an older gent however, I’ll admit it’s taken me awhile to warm up to the 0w-20 weight oils. And yes, every family vehicle besides my Mustang has me using it. It’s not that I don’t think it’s good, it’s just seems so thin compared to what we grew up with (10w-40 then 10w-30 then 5w-30). I was actually surprised my Coyote required 5w-50 - well, that’s what Ford Performance recommends. Oil pressure wise I feel it could be something in the 30 or 40 weight however.

 

For the WIN!

I always thought that this oil was by far the best, then I found several reviews on the stuff. A lot of hype and $$ for oil that falls so far on the test charts.

 

For the WIN!

I always thought that this oil was by far the best, then I found several reviews on the stuff. A lot of hype and $$ for oil that falls so far on the test charts.

In that particular test it is obviously not the best, but the question is if a “four ball wear test” is representative for what’s happening in an engine.

It could be, I have no idea.

 

I’ve been running Lucas 10w40 hot rod oil but wanted to try something with less PPM (2100). I was thinking of VR1 which is 10w30. I only drive the car during nice weather with temp ranges from 40-90 degrees.
VR1 10w30 a good choice for flat tappet engines? I’d rather stick to Dino oil.

i run VR1 30w...california

 

PENN Oil in my 68 289 and has been working fine.

 

i've been using wal mart supertech in my dailys and the mustang for the last 20 or so years.

 

What's a four ball wear test?

 

Yea. And what about the rest of us that only have 2?

 

The ball bearing pressure / galling tests are very popular with the u tube oil gurus. And universally ridiculed by the educated scientists, all PhD’s, that I’ve spoken to at the Phillips 66 / Conoco / Chevron Petroleum Research Center located in my hometown, Bartlesville OK. former headquarters of
Phillips Petroleum Co.

There’s nothing happening inside any internal combustion engine that comes close at approximating these ridiculous home lab experiments. But they are dramatic and give a pecking order to the oils “tested”.

Apparently that’s all it takes to be loved by the internet. Give the masses a simplistic answer to complex problems and the conspiracy theorists will beat a path to your door.

The PhD’s are laughing when they tell me that they wish they’d known about the ball bearing pressure tests before they invested a decade in graduate school. Could’ve been a u tube hero and saved $100,000 in post graduate tuition at the same time.

Z