I went with edelbrock's tbi. Love it, wouldn't go back, until the big emp goes off, and I have to use a carb again post apocalypse.

 

But even then, if you have a Pertronix in the dizzy, you're still screwed. :frown2:

 

I have the Holley Terminator kit....ZERO regrets! I'm 100% confident it would be the one decision on your car that you were most happy with.

I see no downsides at all in going that route. At this point, living 7 months with EFI installed in my car, I would never...EVER...build another classic without it.

 

I have the EZ-EFI 2.0 in my 66 and I have absolutely zero regrets at all. It has so far (2,000 miles) been very reliable. I really like how easy it is to tune/monitor from the handheld and how it compensates for environmental factors so that the engine always runs really consistently. At the end of the day it is really just a smart carburetor but I am really happy with the cars drive ability. Like you I am in LA and use the car to commute at least a few times a week, and it handles LA traffic without a hitch and gives me the performance I want on the weekends in the canyons.

 

I have regrets that I've spent over $2k on carbs over the last 5 years and could have put that toward an EFI unit. It's like every time I'm at that crossroads, I go for the carb to save a lot of money (and carbs do work great) but now looking back and forward, thinking I should stop buying carbs and bite the bullet. Maybe in another couple years, they'll be offering pkgs. that are better than todays for under a grand. Just like TVs, microwaves, etc (or maybe I'm dreamin).

 

Maybe in another couple years, they'll be offering pkgs. that are better than todays for under a grand. Just like TVs, microwaves, etc (or maybe I'm dreamin).

I think you're dreaming, not to sound rude about it just restating your thoughts.

There's a TON of classics out there with a TON of people making the switch, or at least contemplating it. It makes no sense for them to drop prices.

However, I did notice that Holley has it on sale for Christmas right now for under $1,800!

 

I installed the MSD Atomic and have no regrets.

From my reading it sounds like all of them are basically the same throttle body injection.

I really do enjoy being able to start my Mustang when cold and have a good idle immediately.

 

I installed the MSD Atomic and have no regrets.

From my reading it sounds like all of them are basically the same throttle body injection.

I really do enjoy being able to start my Mustang when cold and have a good idle immediately.

Indeed that's partly what I'm after, as well as a whole bunch of other tuning gremlins I've been putting up with for years. :surprise:

 

Taken Rorin's question one step further. . . .what was the final cost after ALL the mod's were done to support your EFI? that includes plumbing, wiring, gas tank for a return system, pump, reservoir for the non-return system, etc, etc.

 

I'm budgeting about $3,000 "all-in" for this project if I do it myself, and that's with an out-of-tank fuel pump.

 

While we are on this topic, and I hope this isn't "derailing" but who has taken the EFI system from a modern 5.0 motor and swapped it in? and what is the consensus there. Seems like it would be a lot cheaper. But I also imagine a lot more work. Do you get roughly the same results as you do from one of these kits?

 

I took a 1986 Mustang EFI harness (was free to me) and converted it from speed density to MAF. I cleaned up the harness a lot when I modified to fit my car. Considering all of the other time I put in restoring my car, the EFI wiring was not really all that much work and it was also nice to take a break from welding and other body related work. I had to do some custom tuning to support all my engine modifications, but it was not overly difficult. A lot of the aftermarket kits are throttle body injection type and they work great, where the factory Ford system is multipoint and uses one injector per cylinder. A lot of people don't like the look of the factory 5.0 intake manifold and prefer the classic look you get with a TBI style system, but you can get aftermarket 5.0 intake manifolds that look better. If you are running a basically stock 5.0, the factory Ford system is probably one of the cheapest ways to go.

 

Will-E both FITech and now the copycat from Holley are available for $1k. Supporting items you can do for another $450 (Command Center type) or about $700 for an in tank pump, all new fuel lines and fittings.

I don't have any experience with mine yet, but I am bound and determined to make the car run before the New Year (thanks unspent vacation and 40 hour carryover).

I can't really think of a negative if you set up the carb style FI in lieu of a carb ... especially the self learning types where you really don't have to go in and fine tune unless that is your thing. IMO it takes WAY LESS talent to have a top running car with these carb style FI units than it does with a carb and the float/idle/secondary/pump/power valve adjustment dance that you have to do to truly dial them in. If you have that "carb guru" skill set then I am not sure it would make much of a difference if you added an 02 sensor and a gauge /shrug.

I am pretty confident that I will love my FITech set up, and I expect it to eliminate some of the large cam upper RPM issues I have been chasing for the last few years on course.

 

Will-E both FITech and now the copycat from Holley are available for $1k. Supporting items you can do for another $450 (Command Center type) or about $700 for an in tank pump, all new fuel lines and fittings.

Good to know, thanks few.

 

Used EEC-iV. No regrets at all, except not finding out my idle issue earlier (stupid programming mistake), and wish I made a neater wiring harness, but having never assembled one of these, I had no idea where to run it. Probably not an issue with most people if the engine and interior is in the car already so you can tell where to run it. I will be redoing mine eventually.

 

Rorin, I'd budget the same $$ amount given all the extra items. The $$ is definitely the one aspect that's keeping me from taking the plunge. By the way, if anyone saw the BangShift video comparing carb and fuel inj, there was one item that stands out in the video, the inj system had problems idling using a dual plane intake. They had to switch to a single plane intake to resolve the fuel distribution problem. Kinda makes sense if you think about it, fuel delivery and inj pulse is calculated prior to the intake, but measured after the intake at the O2; the dual plane gives a different reading at the O2 verses the single plane. if you have idle problems, that might be your issue (if everything else checks)

 

I PM Frieburger about that with no response.

I Have ez2.0 on my 433ci FE I noticed some surging and mis colored plugs. A 1/2" open spacer cured it.

 

The biggest down side to EFI is under hood appearance in my mind, with zero wire carb style systems like FI Tech, I really do not see a down side.

 

I'm hoping to be done with my upgrade by the end of this week. Fingers crossed! I've made a few changes before and during the upgrade process and many mistakes which made my upgrade run longer and also costlier but not that much more costly. Learned a lot and hopefully will have time to write it up after everything is done so the next person will avoid my mistakes.

BTW, I'm going with the FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc tank, PTFE hoses. I've stopped counting but I'm around $2200-$2400.

 

I don't think I will ever use a carb again. Seriously.

I am right around $2700 with the FI Tech 8 injector, PTFE lines, Aeromotive Phantom Stealth in a '70 22gal tank.

 

I too have a 22 gallon tank that I just installed, so I figured I'd need an external pump since I didn't want to buy the special EFI tank. That Aeromotive Phantom Stealth pump is pricey and it sure it pretty cool. I may just have to consider that if I do go this route. Thanks for the pointer! :yoho:

 

I have a dual plane RPM Air gap and a fairly big roller cam and my FI Tech idles great, way better than I could get it with a carb.

 

The new FI kits are tempting , but I have a tri-power still sitting on my work bench .
I could probably sell the tri-power for the cost of a FI kit . Tempting , but......?

 

No regrets from me either! I put on a Powerjection III system - basically a smart carburetor that does nothing but meter A/F ratio. There are better and cheaper systems available now from what I've seen, but I have no complaints about mine!

That fuel injection system has seen every environment the United States has to offer (-30*F to 116*F, below sea level up to 11,000 ft., desert and snow and rain and everything in between) and has been trucking away for 22,000 miles or so. It always works and it doesn't get mad when the fuel is boiling (which has been pretty frequent due to my poor fuel line routing and materials... an issue which is being remedied this week).

If you are going to go EFI, put in an in-tank pump. Yeah, it'll cost more. But trying to mount the pump in line is a pain, you have to be a little concerned about fuel starvation depending on where you mount it, it doesn't get as much cooling, and it's louder (though apparently some of the new Holley pumps are very quiet, which is another thing that wasn't an option when I converted). If you can weld you can save yourself some money over the Tanks Inc. tank setup and make your own mount for a pump.

All in, I paid $1500 for the EFI, $400 for the tank/pump, and a couple hundred for the lines. Modified my intake to take another water temp sensor and modified a header for the O2 sensor and that's about the extent of it.

 

That fuel injection system has seen every environment the United States has to offer (-30*F to 116*F, below sea level up to 11,000 ft., desert and snow and rain and everything in between) and has been trucking away for 22,000 miles or so. it.

This is precisely why I like it over a carb. Just going into town is a 2,000 ft descent. I live at 6800 ft but in only a 20 minute drive from my house I can be at close to 11,500 ft.

 

Not trying to hi-jack this thread. But I am curious about how the throttle response is on the EFI systems. Is it as zippy and instant as a "carbed" engine?
I think that most production cars with EFI, I have been driving tend to stick in rpm - like it doesn't like to return from high rpm.

 

I'd say it's even more so! It's immediate, strong and continues pulling!

 

Rorin,

If you bought the Tanks Inc 22 gal set up should be about $490 at Summit with free ship
40' of Summit brand PTFE $150
Hose ends and filter $250
FITech 600hp $1050 (you could likely go pick it up in person)
Grommets, wiring bits, hose clamps etc $100

I still see it as about $2k plus your time. I am going to try and reuse my existing 3/8" hard line for the return. I am routing my wiring down and under the carb through the air gap intake, and mating it up with the rest of the wiring (controller cables and harness) for one single pass through in to the dash near the middle of the firewall. I could try and get crazy and hide it all, but I just don't care on that level myself. I am routing under the fender for the front harness, and will F6 all that I can on the AAW harness.

 

Awesome thread. Timely for me

I bought a 65 fastback with a 1990 stock 5.0 with FI. Sadly the wiring was done by a stoned monkey so I had immeasurable issues with it. After it was sorted however it made the car a dream. The car always started. Even after a three month slumber. It has
the RJM changeover harness which allowed the stock 5.0 wiring to run with the 65 cabin wiring which was nice I don't think RJM are still in operation. The only thing I really hate about stock fox FI is the hideous intake!

Anyway. I have now gotten a 67 350 replica to replace my 65 Shelby Clone. The car is running perfect with a carb but a FI system is on the cards. I Will look to purchase it when I am at Charlotte in April for the auto fair.

My 65 Runs the "tanks" submerged fuel pump and tank and it's great. I did struggle with sealing issues on the tank as the Teflon or ? Gaskets supplied fractured twice. They sent me cork ones which worked great.

 

I went Tanks inc with the hole drilling. Works great.

DON'T buy summit PTFE. I don't know who makes it, but the fittings just plain don't work.. Went with hosewarehouse.com and bought aeroquip.. Worked perfectly (and same price).

 

I also used Tanks Inc for my efi. I used the original steel fuel line as intended and used the included efi hose as the return line into the fuel sender.

I spent more than some because I went with the MSD system. To take full advantage of the Atomic I had to buy an MSD distributor. I already had an MSD 6AL ignition box. The Atomic EFI now controls my engines timing. I think that is a definite advantage.

 

For a 3k budget I would buy a 90-93 fox body and transfer everything over to your classic. Efi is the way to go.

 

I have the Mass Flo EFi system in my car and because of a motor change and supercharger, I've spent a few thousand getting it tuned (3 dyno sessions and chips burned). If I was to do it again, I'd go with a stroked out 351w and one of the current throttle body self tuning systems out there. But to answer your question, I would still go EFI, but put it on a naturally aspirated engine. Don't get too fancy with power adders etc...

 

If I was to do it again, I'd go with a stroked out 351w and one of the current throttle body self tuning systems out there.

That's the exact route I took 351W based 393 stroker with the Holley Terminator EFI. 570 HP and it runs flawlessly.

 

My research also said to not buy PTFE fittings from Summitt, I do have 20' of their -6 line though and I went with Fragola fittings. Haven't built any yet but hope to after Christmas. We will see.

 

I never figured out who manufactures the summit PTFE.. ALthough a summit spokesperson said "Fragola ends should work".. So after i returned the summit PTFE fittings (The ones I tried just snapped off when starting to tighten) I just went with INdustrial Aeroquip.

 

I only like to use hose and fittings from the same mfg. , so you know they will work together.