[Capt Kent]

I can feel your pain @kblagron breaking in a flat tapped cam is nerve racking.
I am no expert at all in this field, since i broke in only two flat tapped cams so far. But I listened closely to my engine guy how did hundreds of break ins over the years. Most of the tips and hints above are identical to what I did based on my friends recommendations. I used Maxima Break in oil, drained it, run VR-1 for 150 miles, drained and continue to run VR-1 since then.
The only thing to add is, if you run into an e.g. temperature problem. Shot the engine down and let it cool off completely and continue the next day. You don't need to have the 20 minutes in one run.

Fingers crossed!

That's absolutely not true. You don't heat cycle a cam. You run it 20 minutes. Reinstall the inner springs and run it 20 more. You don't break up the cam break in. You're also better to run the break-in oil for 300 miles. You do NOT keep the same oil and filter on the car after the break-in run. You change both. I also cut my filters open and look for metal particles after the break-in.

 

[Woodchuck]

I also cut my filters open and look for metal particles after the break-in.

If you don't find "metal particles" then something is amiss.... break-in will typically remove material from bearing babbit layers, cylinder wall "peaks" and any remaining machining residues so don't be alarmed at the presence of some metal. Of course, if you have a camshaft lobe failure on break-in you'll have some substantial debris present. Where you REALLY want to examine the filter contents is the SECOND oil change.... there should be considerably less metal and very little should be magnetic.

 

[Mustang4SF]

That's absolutely not true. You don't heat cycle a cam. You run it 20 minutes. Reinstall the inner springs and run it 20 more. You don't break up the cam break in. You're also better to run the break-in oil for 300 miles. You do NOT keep the same oil and filter on the car after the break-in run. You change both. I also cut my filters open and look for metal particles after the break-in.

As I said, I have limited experience. Of course, changing the oil filter everytime you change oil.So what would you do if the car heavily overheats during the initial 20min break-in? Or develops a bad leak? I am not arguing with you, I just want to know what you would do.

 

[Woodchuck]

As I said, I have limited experience. Of course, changing the oil filter everytime you change oil.So what would you do if the car heavily overheats during the initial 20min break-in? Or develops a bad leak? I am not arguing with you, I just want to know what you would do.

There's a few things you do. First, fill the cooling system with straight water and, using a pressure tester, put pressure in the system before firing the engine. Most auto parts stores have the pressure testers in their "loan-a-tool" program. Second, set your initial timing before firing the engine. Depending on what you have for an ignition trigger you can use a test light, voltmeter or ohmmeter. I'd set a stock build at 12-14 degrees and a "performance" build at 16-20 degrees BTDC for initial start-up and leave the distributor "loose". Pre-lube the oiling system while verifying the operation of the oil pressure gauge. Monitor engine temperature during break-in. I'd also start with the curb idle screw in 2 turns and have a screwdriver in my hands ready to increase or decrease, as needed. Lastly, I'd have my fire extinguisher in place and a box fan blowing straight in at the radiator. Those things should minimize the chances that you'll need to halt the break-in process.

 

[zray]

A Blackstone Lab oil analysis is always a good idea periodically. The cost is reasonable and you’ll have definitive answers regarding metal(s) in the oil and also be able to quantify how well your oil is performing, ie how much of the additive package is still working.

Oil Analysis | Blackstone Laboratories

Learn what's going on in your engine with oil analysis. Our free kits are easy to use and we explain the results in plain English! Since 1985.

www.blackstone-labs.com

Z

 

[66coupe289]

The main criticism 540 Rat gets is entirely due to his) and others) use of testing procedures, primarily the pressure / galling test, that have no resemblance or correlation to any conditions inside an engine. Not accounting for a moving film of oil under pressure is his primary fallacy when attempting to rate oils.

Entertaining ? Maybe. Science ? No.

Z

ASTM has several test standards for lubricants utilizing a "4 ball" test machine which is nothing like anything one finds in an engine. Here is an example of one such test:

Here is what I think you are referring to as a galling test:

That at least could be said to resemble a lifter riding on a camshaft (with zero lift )

While the second test is not an "ASTM" test, it does not mean it is not done with scientific methods. If a test is done under controlled conditions so that results can be repeatable the relative results have meaning.

It would be nice if oils had to publish wear test results done via ASTM, or some other, standards, but has anyone ever seen them? I haven't. We are left to view Youtubers or read bloggers manifestos to try and find actual comparisons.

 

[Capt Kent]

As I said, I have limited experience. Of course, changing the oil filter everytime you change oil.So what would you do if the car heavily overheats during the initial 20min break-in? Or develops a bad leak? I am not arguing with you, I just want to know what you would do.

My 427 made the headers glow red during the break in. It goes with the territory on a tight new engine, as does heat. It didn't over-heat and you really can't set precise timing being it can't be left to idle. It's about keeping it running and the splash on the cam during the process. I never run coolant, as Bart stated. Just distilled water. The reason I mentioned changing the filter and oil is you're doing it right after the cam break in process. Oil and filter both and with break in oil. Not what you're going to run after the engine is broke in. Cutting the filter open and inspecting the pleats of the filter material after the cam break in also yields much about the health. Of course if you develop a heavy leak or a noise that is of great concern you'll have to shut it down.

 

[Jeff351w]

Just for the record guys...

Once while doing a break in on a flat tappet Xtreme Energy cam I had a battery cable catch fire after shorting out. I ran as fast as I could to grab a fire extinguisher from the kitchen and put it out (man, that really created a mess). I don't remember if I shut it off or it shut itself off, but the break in was halted about 10 minutes in. Days later after replacing the cable and making sure everything else was OK I restarted it and finished the break in. No other problems arose and the cam and lifters broke in just fine. Drove it for about 10,000 miles over the years. When I pulled it out years later for an upgrade, it was in perfectly good condition. Still a crown on the face of the lifters and everything was fine with the cam's lobes..

Not ideal, but stopping in the middle in and of itself will not fubar the break in.

 

[Capt Kent]

Just for the record guys...

Once while doing a break in on a flat tappet Xtreme Energy cam I had a battery cable catch fire after shorting out. I ran as fast as I could to grab a fire extinguisher from the kitchen and put it out (man, that really created a mess). I don't remember if I shut it off or it shut itself off, but the break in was halted about 10 minutes in. Days later after replacing the cable and making sure everything else was OK I restarted it and finished the break in. No other problems arose and the cam and lifters broke in just fine. Drove it for about 10,000 miles over the years. When I pulled it out years later for an upgrade, it was in perfectly good condition. Still a crown on the face of the lifters and everything was fine with the cam's lobes..

Not ideal, but stopping in the middle in and of itself will not fubar the break in.

Yes, it does often. The cam lubricant is wiped quickly from the lobes. It's also why it's important to have the timing dead on so it starts up immediately. We know we have to allow a couple hours to cool before putting the inner springs back on performance builds. Again, as Bart noted: Very fine metal "glitter" is common with start up and in the pleats, but obvious signs of cam failure aren't fine particles. I wouldn't run anything from Comp cams with their track record the last three years. Roller cams are simply the way to go but almost triple the cost of a flat-tappet.