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Install Roof Rail Weatherstrip - Am I an idiot or what?

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14K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  flashback52  
#1 ·
Don't ask my wife.

Trying to complete what's going on a 20 year project, the proverbial back-burner, a '68 coupe. Retirement is looming, so I like to surprise all my friends who swear it'll never get done by driving it out to my retirement party (no alcohol that night, but priorities have to be set). So the push is on.

Two part question:
1) Installing roof rail weatherstrip (WS) (Repops). However, installing dry to check fit shows it's a little short - 3" or so. Seems like a lot. If I screw the front in and place the rear where it needs to go, there's too much tension to get it into the channel - just pulls out when I try to stretch it. I would expect it to be taut but I expected a more relaxed fit. So question 1 - is it supposed to be that short and fit that tight? I realize some adhesive is required, which brings me to question #2....

2a) I see from the build manual I'm supposed to use adhesive at 4 places - the first and last 3", and 6" at each curve (A pillar and C pillar). The adhesives called out in the manual (ESB-M2G104-A or ESB-M2G150-A) don't seem to exist any more, and I didn't get any hits on them here at VMF or even through Google (and I thought they knew everything), so I bought 3M WS adhesive. I could cement the front first, since the screw leaves little doubt about positioning, cement the rear next, since positioning here is also pretty straightforward, and then try to get the pillar locations one at a time. Since they'll be taking up all the tension positioning will be critical to make sure the tension is evenly distributed, and the adhesive will have to grab pretty quick.

2b) However, the 3M is a contact cement (seems all the WS adhesives are), which means as soon as it touches itself I'm DONE - my positioning window is over (and as much as I rely on the online tutorials, watching a guy glue WS onto aluminum blocks doesn't help here). So, the Big Question - how do you get the WS into the channel and correctly positioned before the contact cement locks it down? I have seen some other adhesives suggestions (Indian Head gasket, for example), but given the WS tension I think they'd pull away before they set. Guess I could stand there and maintain pressure....

Another thought I had was to place just a thin strip of adhesive in the center of the channel and WS, try to get the WS positioned in the channel (car side), roll it onto the adhesive, then futz with the outside channel.

Been beating my head on this one fro a while. Anyone have any wisdom to impart here?

Thanks, folks.
 

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#3 ·
I wonder if your weatherstrip is actually for 65-66? I don't really know, just guessing. I seriously doubt the install requires stretching it to make it fit. As far as adhesives, I would have figured just using 3M weather strip adhesive, available at just about any local jobber. Usually comes in black or yellow, personally I've always liked the black stuff.

On another note I hear ya on family and friends giving you a hard time on never getting it finished. I hear it every now and again as well. I usually hear, "You finish that car yet? I'll be dead before you finish that!" As to which now I reply, "I'll gladly add your name to the list!" I actually thought about making the list on a piece of cardboard and hanging it on my garage wall. >:)

I wish you all the best on finishing your car and also on your retirement. Cheers
 
#5 ·
69GT350 and Caper50 - Yeah, it does look short and that might be why (65-66). The Repops box says 67-68, but I guess mistakes can happen. Would've though that light bulb might've gone off in my head... I'll see if I can run down the 65/66 and 67/68 WS lengths online, check against my set. You're right, Turnall, It's the little issues, the things I think should be easy, that drive me nuts. As I saw on someone's avatar, 'What's a bolt-on?' Now that's funny.

Thanks for the positive comments, y'all, and thanks Caper50, for the laugh. Even my wife liked it, she's suggesting a plaque with everyone's name on it as a memento.

Lastly, anyone have any install tips?

Thanks for the input, folks.
 
#10 ·
I have a drip rail that I haven't installed yet, but don't (didn't) think it affects WS install. Here's what I've been working to from the Osborn Body manual, all it shows is the stainless channel (part 1 in the drawing, in yellow) and the WS itself (part 2). And I don't have anything left in the trim pile that looks like it would have to be installed as part of the WS. Am I missing something?
 

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#9 ·
Just rechecked the Repops package, and it is identified as a 68 coupe, both by Repops and NPD. The WS measures about 68" (rubber only), about 68-3/4" if I measure to the hole in the front mounting tab. The channel measures about 72" (front screw hole to where the rubber should end), so there's at least a 3" difference in length. Haven't been able to find WS lengths online yet, guess I'll just have to order another set and see what I get.

If anyone out there is doing a 65/66 or 67/68 coupe build and has uninstalled roof rail WS handy, would appreciate it if you would measure the length and post it here. Be a good reference.

Thanks.
 
#11 ·
I would go ahead and install the chrome channel trim. I used a continuous piece of black 3m double sided mlding tape for the material "c" in that illustration,under the trim, then you can dry fit the weatherstrip for a better idea of how its going to turn out. You can stretch it a little during installation. The car is going to be fantastic when you get it done. Mine was off the road for 30 years and I heard all the friends and family comments about never finishing it. Even after the painting was done it took 3 more years to put it back together and get it on the road..maybe 2017? Time flys and none of us are getting any younger!
 
#12 ·
When I installed mine in my 67 coupe, I originally thought I would get away without using adhesive. It sits in the channel pretty well. You can go back later and pull parts out and apply adhesive without pulling the whole thing at once and moving it around. Check out my blog if interested. https://bapony.com/2017/03/19/installing-roofrail-weatherstriping/ I also agree that you look like you have too short of a WS.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, that's what I was thinking as well, until the WS came up short in the middle of the C pillar. And I will take a look at the blog, not only for this, but for the road still ahead.

And Caper50, appreciate it.

For those of you offering + vibes, here's where we are. Thanks for the supportive comments. I'm also rebuilding a basement bathroom for my sister-in-law, and plan to retire by the end of the year.
 

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#18 ·
Are they now. And that's for a 66, almost exactly my 68 roofrail measurement, so maybe I do have fastback WS. Guess it's time to add WS to the shopping list.

And have to laugh, Knapper, I'm in SC, and it's July, and I know what the inside of my garage feels like, and if they ain't stretched out to their limit yet they ain't never gonna be. :grin2: Thanks for the suggestion, though, maybe I'll plop them in the sun on the driveway and see what happens.

Still haven't gotten an answer to my original question though - how do I get the WS properly positioned before the WS adhesive locks it down? This is the real problem.....
 
#17 ·
I am not sure if this had already been suggested, but you might try setting them out in the sun for a couple hours prior to installing. 3” may be too much, but you might be able to gain it...just a thought if all other avenues fail.
 
#21 ·
Yeah, seen that, Caper50. I like the way they gloss over applying the adhesive - 'Put the new seal in by pushing it into the inside edge of the track and tucking the outside edge into the track. Apply 3M weatherstrip adhesive as you go.' I dunno, I've seen several references to contact cement and the 0 second working time, how once it grabs that's where it stays. But there's not much concern in a post like this. Put the WS in place before the adhesive tacks up? Am I overthinking this?
 
#24 ·
I use 3m adhesive and do a zig zag squirt along the metal channel for 10 to 12 inches. Then run a bead of 3m on the back of the seal and smooth it out with the side of tube tip then install the rubber trim, I put the flange on the thicker side in first then tuck in the thinner edges. Then I use my fingers to work it into place. I never have had trouble repositioning it. It's not as sticky as contact adhesive so can be pulled apart. I dont wait for it to dry before installing though so that may be the reason

As I get about 2/3rds around I start checking length against the channel to make sure I have not inadvertently stretched or compressed it along its length

Cheers Peter