Mid or reverse eye leaf springs.

 

Given that my rear tires are 235/60/15 with 4.5 backspacing would I have to alter or change the size of tire and or backspacing ? I have had someone tell me that I can’t lower the rear because of my tire size set up. If that does not hold to be true, Any advantage of going with mid vs rear ? Also would you go 4, 41/2 or 5 leaf ? Lastly , since I have someone coming to roll the front fender , should I ask to do the rear in anticipation of the drop and just to be sure ?

 

Well.... did you do the Arning drop on the upper control arms? A problem with the Mustang suspension is on compression the suspension goes into positive camber which is pushing the top of the tire out into the fender lip. By relocating the upper arms down 1" greatly reduced the amount of positive camber gain which will greatly reduce rubbing. Not only will this reduce rubbing but it will raise the roll center making the car corner flatter and handle much better. While lowering the upper arms is to make the car handle better, it has the side benefit of lowering the front by about 5/8"

 

Until you answer this question, we cannot sensibly suggest how to proceed.

Given that my rear tires are 235/60/15 with 4.5 backspacing would I have to alter or change the size of tire and or backspacing ? I have had someone tell me that I can’t lower the rear because of my tire size set up. If that does not hold to be true, Any advantage of going with mid vs rear ? Also would you go 4, 41/2 or 5 leaf ? Lastly , since I have someone coming to roll the front fender , should I ask to do the rear in anticipation of the drop and just to be sure ?

First, before rolling the fenders, perform the Arning drop if you have not already.

Oh, and the 428 Super Cobra Jet had 4-leaf springs. You really want to go stiffer than that? Never use stiff springs, front or rear, to prevent tires hitting fenders. Proper tire size and wheel backspace is how you prevent that.

 

Depends on how much space between the top of the tire and fender lip and how stiff you want the rear suspension.

 

Makes sense. So do you think I can install them without messing with my tire size or backspacing setup ?

 

Hard to tell from where I'm at..... you make the call.

 

I have 235 15 60 with 4.5 backspacing tires in the back...

What wheel spec and tire size do you have up front? Also post a sideview pic of your car as it sits now, that would be helpful. You just received some sterling knowledge and advice from both @Huskinhano and @22GT. If all you did to lower the front was just cut coils, that would not be optimum. The upper "A" arm modification (Arning/Shelby "Drop") is very, very strongly recommended on these cars to improve handling, and just as Huski said as a by product the front will lower 5/8" just from that alone. Note also that the chart 22GT posted is based on factory stock ride heights. If a car is lowered significantly front or back and you attempt max recommended tire/wheel sizes all bets are off regarding clearance. Again, it would be really helpful to see a side view pic of your car. We can talk front end alignment specifications later.

 

1. 
   I installed a 1 inch lower coil springs, the idler arm, inner/outer tie rods (left and right) and a sway bar. The front wheels are 15x6 with 4.5 backspacing with 195 65 15 tires. i did not do the Shelby drop.

 

How much did you cut off of the front coils?

How did you decide on this amount?

 

I like the old school Cragar look.

That front end is Waaaay low.

 

I know. I have a guy coming to roll out the inner fender. Hopefully this will resolve the rubbing issue. Now I don’t know what to do with the back. The guy don’t have a full lift and I don’t trust any mechanic around that they know what to replace in the rear so that the car looks even. I am hoping that you guys can tell me what parts do I need for the rear.

 

What you can try to lower the rear. Loosen the front bolts on the leaf springs with the weight of the car on the tires. Bounce the back of the car. This may help. Chances are everything was tightened up with the axle hanging. This is a common issue on front suspensions. Last year I put new mid eye 4.5 leaf springs in my 66. It sat a little too high for my liking. I remembered I tightened everything with the axle hanging. I loosened the front bolts and bounced the back a few times. I heard the springs slip in the pockets and the back sat a good half inch lower after that.

Arning drop, .620" coils with half loop cut off.

 

What you can try to lower the rear. Loosen the front bolts on the leaf springs with the weight of the car on the tires. Bounce the back of the car. This may help. Chances are everything was tightened up with the axle hanging. This is a common issue on front suspensions. Last year I put new mid eye 4.5 leaf springs in my 66. It sat a little too high for my liking. I remembered I tightened everything with the axle hanging. I loosened the front bolts and bounced the back a few times. I heard the springs slip in the pockets and the back sat a good half inch lower after that.

Arning drop, .620" coils with half loop cut off and Arning drop

Nice @Huskinhano !
Can you share your tire and rim sizes?

 

Several people suggestion GT coil springs. I did that and my car was way high in the front.

Went with 620 lowering springs and the stance is perfect. I did do the Shelby /Arning drop. Couldn’t be happier.

 

I just replaced the front one and I really don’t want to change it. I like how the car sit in the front I just need to roll out the fender. I was just curious about how to lower the rear. I will order the mid leaf spring and new shocks. Hopefully it will clear the rear wheel offset and it will even out the look

 

It appears the tire size and backspace in the front is proper. Tire height is about right too IMO. I see by the pic of the front tire there appears to be some damage to the lip of the fender at about 1 o'clock or so. Maybe caused by the rubbing. I would say this would have to be repaired first. I'm not sure changing to different lowering springs would help, but maybe higher spring rate would help keep the tire of the fender. I'm guessing alignment is the answer in the front...Or raising ride height a little. Now the rear is another story. To me it appears the wheel sticks out enough that if you lowered it much it will hit the fender in a bigger bump, whether the fender is rolled or not. Not sure how much more backspace it would take to get it to clear. You might be in for a pair of wheels and tires on that one.


Glen

 

It appears the tire size and backspace in the front is proper.

Not really, it's only the smallish tire size he's got that gets it even close to working. The optimum back space for a 15x6 wheel is 4.00", and his are most likely 3.25". A big difference, and a larger/wider tire could fit better with a 4" back space.

 

There’s always 1” lowering blocks for the rear, unless the leafs are shot. If it’s too low/rubs, just take them back out.

 

On the flip side the car looks so awkward. Now that the front has been lowered, the rear sits way higher. I have 235 15 60 Kodi nox with 4.5 backspacing tires in the back and I am wondering if I could drop it about an inch so the car looks more symmetrical and if so what are my options?

 

Rather than replace your front springs you could move your spring perch out 1" which will change your motion ratio and it will raise your front 1/2". Easy to do and you can put it back anytime.

 

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Delete

 

Tire tucking is all about getting the right backspacing regardless of wheel size

 

. The coils are for your front because it is TOO low.

 

Rather than replace your front springs you could move your spring perch out 1" which will change your motion ratio and it will raise your front 1/2". Easy to do and you can put it back anytime.

 

whats with all the recent post from new members and getting banned and rejoining ? @patrickstapler ?
Also why not just use the proper wheel backspacing and tire sizes

 

I have no idea. I haven’t banned any current user. I have prevented hundreds of spammers from joining.

 

The upper control arm which is one of the two spring mount locations. When you lower the upper arm 1" you have effectively increased the distance between the two mounts. The length of the spring is fix. I don't see how this not lowering the front.