I'm confused- Why don't you just get the right studs?

 

I have the right studs now but they aren't getting enough 'bite' in the hub to not spin when I tighten the lug nuts. So now I have new hub new/right studs but they spin. Can I tack weld the back or do I have to get a new hub and start over?

 

I would say yes to your last question.

I most definitely would not do that.

 

I would get a new hub. If you weld those studs, the heat from the welding can actually weaken the metal. Worst case, the studs break and your wheel parts ways with the car.

 

Do it right:thumbsup:

 

Coming from an engineering background, welding high strength bolts makes them brittle and more easily snapped off. you wouldnt want to be driving when that happens...

 

Even just a little tack to keep it from spinning? Ugh... This is becoming an expensive mistake...

 

At your funeral from a horrific car wreck do you want the priest to say "at least he saved 50 bucks on wheel studs?"

I've seen a wheel part ways from a mustang at speed. Not pretty.

Peter

 

Is it possible to find studs with oversized splines?

 

I'm going to look. But I need to make sure it has the right shoulder to hold the drum in place... The wrong studs originally pressed in had a short shoulder and more thread which gave the drum too much play so I had to replace them.

To get the studs out though, I have no choice but to tack them so they don't spin now that the wheel is on.

I know this isn't a Mustang hub (don't ask) but something like this would work perfectly if physics, engineering, and metallurgy cooperated...

 

OK, he's talking about 1 of the studs, right? And he's going to die a horrific death from one stud busting to pieces and turning into powder as he's driving?

So, has anyone here ever seen a car with a missing lug nut? Same difference. lets put the fear of death into someone over one stud.

And honestly, if the heat from the weld was mostly applied to the hub and touched the back edge of the stud, enough to keep it from spinning, nothing will come of this.
Except when he starts cussing him self one day when he decided to do it right.

But really, don't cheap out. Just get the correct stud.
On a side note, Tire Kingdom stripped one of my '95's studs with their idiot and his new Snap-On impact gun that he was so proud of, he didn't know how to use it.
I drove to 5 or 6 different parts places, everyone basically kept handing me the same Dorman stud telling me it was the correct part for my car. Even though it would not fit the hole. It was about $2.50
Went to the dealership, got the correct stud for .99 cents!

 

Well, ScottGT, therein lies the problem. It is all 4 studs (its a 6cyl). The original studs I had gotten were the wrong studs. When I pressed the right studs in, they grab but not enough to tighten the nuts down. I'm hesitant to do the weld more so because I don't want the weld to crack while changing a flat in the middle of the night on the side of the road.

My ideal situation would be to get the 'next size up' knurl with the same shoulder length (that holds the drum in place.) No idea if this stud that I need exists though.

 

I believe it was all the studs?

 

When I do something the wrong way (and it happens all the time), I try to follow up with the right way. I would be procuring a new hub (and probably a new set of lug studs to go with it)

 

If the hub and studs aren't working together, then something is wrong. Could the wrong studs have damaged the hub when they were pressed in? Figure out which part is not working in this equation and fix it correctly the first time. Otherwise, you'll never stop worrying about those tack welds. That won't make your cruising fun.

 

Get a different undamaged hub with the correct studs. Yes, yours is now damaged as it is not accepting the correct studs.

It can't get any simpler then that and it will save you head aches later.
Lynn

 

You're all right. Even though it may hold I'll always know its there and know that I should just fix it the right way...

If I ever sell this car I am definitely pointing the owner to this forum. There will be no "Previous Owner" posts about this car.

Thanks for the kick in the ***!

-j

 

All you need to do is get the wrong studs out and buy a set of new studs which fit tight. As long as they have the correct size threads and are tight it doesn't matter what they were originally designed to fit.

Your problem is getting the old ones out since they spin. Since you are going to get rid of the studs anyway it doesn't matter if you bang them up getting them out. Just weld a metal rod to the thread end (the front top, not the back) which is smaller than the thread size. Clamp a pair of vise grips on the rod really really really tight and then just undo the lug nuts with a wrench instead of a socket. you can reuse your hub (the expensive new part you've already bought). Take the hub to a parts store and just try a few different size studs until you find the correct size. Total cost some time and $25 for new studs all the way around.

 

I had a hub where a couple of the lug holes were slightly enlarged and the studs would spin. I used a copper sleeve, pressed the stud in and never had a problem for the several more years I owned the car.

 

I have a set of 4-lug spindles/hubs/brakes and everything from my '68 that I took off to swap to disc brakes - if they'll work for you then you can have a piece or all of it for the cost of shipping just shoot me a PM if you want it.

That said - back when I was running circle track and we had to run oversize 5/8" studs on our street stock car we didn't have a proper drill press and vice so we drilled them with a handheld drill - they worked for a while but after a while they started spinning in the rotor so we took some skinny strap metal and welded from stud to stud creating a pentagon on the back with the metal between the studs - worked like a charm and raced that way for 3 seasons and took some good hits on that side - one that bent the wheels up to the point they probably got pushed over 4"+

 

Aren't those studs supposed to be swedged to hold the drum to the hub? I didn't see that mentioned. And for those that don't know what I mean, when the assembly is together the shoulder part of the stud that sticks past the drum when it's together gets "smashed" or peened over so it expands, thus making the hub and drum one assembly. Which also makes the stud tighter.

 

Aren't those studs supposed to be swedged to hold the drum to the hub? I didn't see that mentioned. And for those that don't know what I mean, when the assembly is together the shoulder part of the stud that sticks past the drum when it's together gets "smashed" or peened over so it expands, thus making the hub and drum one assembly. Which also makes the stud tighter.

Finally someone points out what is really happening.... I have found that the Dorman listing for studs is not correct... as stated above ... they do not reach in far enought to hold the drum tight to the hub... needs the knurling to be long enough to reach the drum and the peened... after that I always do a very light cut to make sure the assembly is true... I have the Dorman number for the stud that works at the shop if needed.

 

Did you try a wheel spacer? Had a similar issue (if I understand you correctly) with a race car. We put a wheel spacer on then tightened the wheel and the studs bit.

 

Besides buying new hubs, studs which is the correct solution. Maybe put the hubs on the bench and beat the crap out of holes to make them a tad smaller, then bang in new studs and save those as spares. Thats assuming you cant find new studs with a slightly larger shoulder. First thing i would do is look for some other studs at a parts store. Take a caliper with you to mesure, just find somthing with a little more meat.

Jack

 

You're mean to tell me Dorman has been getting it wrong on Mustangs all the way back to the early years too! LOL!!

Personal note: Avoid Dorman products.

 

You're mean to tell me Dorman has been getting it wrong on Mustangs all the way back to the early years too! LOL!!

Personal note: Avoid Dorman products.

what's up with avoid Dorman? I do not have any interest in them... and don't use much of what the sell ... just wondering what made you dislike them...

On the question of the studs ... yes... the application listing for studs is not right.. their replacement window motors for my Escape is wrong as well... but the size info they give helps get on that is correct.. I wrote the number down and that was the end of that..

 

JB Weld! Duh!



HAHA JK Man! You are not that far in the hole so may as well start fresh and do it right.

 

I welded the wheel studs to my atv hub with a stick welder and it's never broke on me I'd advise to use a low temp mig welder something hot enough to bond the metal but not to hot where it weakens the metal hope this helps ik my fourwheeler isint a car but I alwais drive crazy rough on it and like I said wheel hubs are in very good condition

 

I welded ...

You are replying to person who hasn't been an active forum participant in almost two years but welcome to the forum.

 

Another one back from the dead. No way in the world I'd weld on a critical fastener and trust my life to it. I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new hub.

 

The bottom line is this. If the stud is loose in the hub the holes will egg out and the lug nuts will loosen. I have seen this happen before. Do not take a chance. Good luck

 

Agreed, thread closed.