Morning All, currently I have a T-5 with a RMP cable system. It works but it isnt great. I have broken 3 cables in the past and just waiting for this one to go. I would like to go back to lever and spring clutch linkage. My real question is, has anyone done this or running like this and what do you like and hate? Also my headers are in bad shape and I want to go back to long tri y. With the RMP kit i can only run like two or three brand of headers. Just need feedback on what you other folk have seen and dealt with and what should i look into and try. Thanks
T-5 and Headers
DGRisley67
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Morning All, currently I have a T-5 with a RMP cable system. It works but it isnt great. I have broken 3 cables in the past and just waiting for this one to go. I would like to go back to lever and spring clutch linkage. My real question is, has anyone done this or running like this and what do you like and hate? Also my headers are in bad shape and I want to go back to long tri y. With the RMP kit i can only run like two or three brand of headers. Just need feedback on what you other folk have seen and dealt with and what should i look into and try. Thanks
clutch linkage
i used a 1994 5.0 T5 bellhousing. i installed a 1966 Mustang clutch release arm and fulcrum and used the stock clutch pedal and z bar and links. I cut off the aluminum bracket for the clutch cable on the bellhousing, and positioned the 6 cyl fulcrum. then i drilled 2 3/8" holes and mounted the fulcrum to the 1994 bellhousing. works fine, and cost little.
i used a 1994 5.0 T5 bellhousing. i installed a 1966 Mustang clutch release arm and fulcrum and used the stock clutch pedal and z bar and links. I cut off the aluminum bracket for the clutch cable on the bellhousing, and positioned the 6 cyl fulcrum. then i drilled 2 3/8" holes and mounted the fulcrum to the 1994 bellhousing. works fine, and cost little.
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455 Posts
I have a 1970 Mustang with a 302, stock bellhousing, and T-5 on an adapter plate. I have a pair of longtube headers I got used from Craigslist, along with the stock Z-bar. I don't know what brand the headers are but they fit great. Getting them in was slightly annoying but, once installed, they're nowhere near hitting anything.
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Well seems like I just need to dive into it. GypsyR, with the hydro system have you noticed any firewall deform? Also Gypsy what steering do you have?
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807 Posts
I have a fox body T5, JBA 1650 mid length headers, and Mustang Steve cable set-up. Everything fits perfectly and clutch action is very smooth. Can't comment on cable life but fitment made me happy. Not the cheapest way to go (headers were $388 via ebay, no tax, free ship) but they are beautifully made and will outlive me. 
Where is your cable breaking? At the quadrant under the dash?
-- Mike
Where is your cable breaking? At the quadrant under the dash?
-- Mike
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12,336 Posts
FWIW I'm using these https://www.ebay.com/itm/170747829291?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2648 with a slightly modded Z bar
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7,991 Posts
Same thing here except Hedman mid lengths. 10 years and counting on the same cable. I’m very happy with this system.
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8,793 Posts
Same, but Ron Morris cable- no issues whatsoever and still smooth as glass...I have a fox body T5, JBA 1650 mid length headers, and Mustang Steve cable set-up. Everything fits perfectly and clutch action is very smooth. Can't comment on cable life but fitment made me happy. Not the cheapest way to go (headers were $388 via ebay, no tax, free ship) but they are beautifully made and will outlive me.
Where is your cable breaking? At the quadrant under the dash?
-- Mike
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24,335 Posts
I’m using MAC long tubes. Other then a dimple in one tube to clear the Z bar shaft, they fit great with the Z bar and linkage. #5 tube slips in after the header is in which made it very easy to install. If you have PS, you do not need a drop bracket and they tuck up to the floor for good ground clearance. While not designed for P heads they’ll work with P heads, I have a GT40P.
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4,048 Posts
Not exactly what you are asking for but.......after not being able to get a cable clutch to release properly (a T5Z swap from MDL), I went to a hyd. clutch and love it--no issue with header clearance at all.
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11,093 Posts
What mods did you have to make to the Z bar?
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12,336 Posts
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/860121-ebay-stainless-tri-y-review.html
I cut the bottom off and rewelded it to the right side. actually seamed to help the motion ratio as well decreasing pedal effort
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11,093 Posts
How much did yo7 ave to move it? Can’t really see anything from the prices
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12,336 Posts
Agreed the pics could have been better, where the bottom part makes it's 1st bend under the tube I cut it there and just moved it over to the right the thickness of the metal and rewelded it.
mine
random NOS pic
But DON"T cut anything till you have the headers in
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