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Thinking of making an offer on this 65.

4.8K views 64 replies 35 participants last post by  65Fastback65  
#1 ·
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I would need someone to look at the car for me. It’s a 5 hour drive from me. Would you ship it or drive it home if I were to purchase. I need your guys expertise to help me. They are asking 28k for the car.
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#3 ·
No way I buy a car sight unseen. You need to crawl all over it, under it, hear it run, drive it, etc.. If you know someone you trust that much, good for you. I’ve driven 5 hours to pick up some interior trim, so that far to drop $28k doesn’t seem like that big of a deal.
 
#7 ·
IMO if an early coupe is commanding around $30k, it better be able to make a 5 hour drive home. No one can make a truly accurate assessment until seeing the car, but it certainly looks better than the last one. That price seems top of the base coupe market, though, so it should be near perfect.
 
#8 ·
That price seems top of the base coupe market, though, so it should be near perfect.
Agreed- it definitely doesn't look like a $28K car to me from the pics. Missing MC bar, no vacuum line to the 'new disc brakes', fresh paint, but didn't bother with the engine bay at all?? I see Wilbur with lipstick.... scrutinize every inch
 
#11 ·
IMO if an early coupe is commanding around $30k, it better be able to make a 5 hour drive home.
Bingo!

Agreed- it definitely doesn't look like a $28K car to me from the pics.
Same here.

Note that many people who add power boosters to 65-65 cars with disk brakes have problems with the conversion. It has to do with the geometry of the pedal itself - the distance from the pedal pivot to the pushrod, and from the pushrod to the pedal pad. It can be done right - in theory - but from reading at least 30 threads on this forum over the last few years, it seems that nobody ever succeeds.
 
#13 ·
I would really encourage you to watch the auction site Bring a Trailer. They regularly have early mustangs for sale. Not sure I would buy one off the site, but it gives you a very good feel for pricing. The pictures are usually excellent and there is a lot of commentary. As others have said, $28k is the very top of the market. While this seems to be a good looking early model, it would not fetch that price on BAT. My guess we’ll under $20k.
 
#14 ·
I'm going to bring out my "old guy wisdom" here.

The condition of the car is much more important than the price if you're going to keep it. Even though I agree that the car is likely overpriced (which is why it's been on the market for 2 months)....that would be less of a concern to me than the condition of the car.

I paid 5K for my vert 30 years ago. That number is just a number at this point. I have more in the engine than that now. I have that much in paint.

If I could go back in time I would tell "young HoosierBuddy", "don't look for a bargain. Look for a car that is in great shape....especially relative to rust and pay up to get that car".

Oh...I'd also advise young me to invest $350,000 into Nvidia at the IPO in 1999. That would be worth right at One Billion Dollars today....which has a nice ring to it.
 
#16 ·
Better to buy a round trip airline ticket and rent a car to look at this Mustang than drop over $25,000 on something that turns out to be a polished turd.

I hauled a trailer 5 hours to look at a 1970 Mach 1 which the owner insisted was, "Good to go!" with only some minor rust in the floor pans. Of course, it turned out to be a complete rust bucket. And he was firm on a $10,000 asking price. It was a bummer to haul an empty trailer another 5 hours home, but it was sure better than paying $10,000 for a collection of parts loosely held together by rusted steel.
 
#17 ·
IMHO not a $28k car like others said alot of stuff not done that should have been done . missing monte carlo bar , missing Trumpet exhaust tips (or even just chrome tips) that trans pan seal looks like its over tightened and probably leaks (cleaned for photo) ,engine compartment wasn't painted ?
If you do buy it drive home just 5 hours .
 
#19 ·
The Monte Carlo bar isn't missing. They didn't come with them from Ford. That's a very highly recommended aftermarket device. And no way I'd pay that much for a basic hardtop. Maybe 20K, if everything works, including a/c and brake booster.
 
#25 ·
The car is over priced. Its a nice example, but would not get over 20k on any of the auction sites.
Here's a nice example that just sold for 17.5K so you have an idea. There are many other sub 20K V8 coupes on BaT:
 
#30 ·
The car is over priced. Its a nice example, but would not get over 20k on any of the auction sites.
Here's a nice example that just sold for 17.5K so you have an idea. There are many other sub 20K V8 coupes on BaT:
Well, yeah, that car has the Monte Carlo bar still in place. Although, it is a curved example. Likely it would have sold for $30,000 with a straight Monte Carlo bar.
 
#31 ·
Regarding "should I drive it 5 hrs home?", I think you should plan for the worst and hope for the best. Bring a tool box, some coolant, belts, maybe a couple of hoses (things that you'd probably be replacing anyway), a good cell phone charger and an up-to-date contact list of who you're going to call if you have problems.

The selling price is between you and the seller. I have no comment on that.
 
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#41 ·
Anyone willing to post almost anything on the Internet should be prepared to have a thick skin when reading responses. Hopefully the OP already has a thick skin and is able to appreciate that these responses really only speak about the person typing and what that person's position is. :)

If the OP really wants an automatic, then the search should be limited to automatic mustangs if the price of the car is already important. Changing transmissions is not cheap.
 
#47 ·
Anyone willing to post almost anything on the Internet should be prepared to have a thick skin when reading responses. Hopefully the OP already has a thick skin and is able to appreciate that these responses really only speak about the person typing and what that person's position is. :)

If the OP really wants an automatic, then the search should be limited to automatic mustangs if the price of the car is already important. Changing transmissions is not cheap.
I can drive a manual. Loved my Hurst 4 speed GTO in high school. Now I’m 64. My left knee is painful. I want to hold a latte in my right hand while steering with my left. So I have an automatic. Because I want to. Not because I can’t drive a stick.
 
#42 ·
I understand not being able to drive a manual trans, but if you come across a really nice car at a great price, but a manual trans. Don't let the manual stop you.

As a 19-20 year old kid when I purchased my 3spd '66. I had very little three pedal experience, less than two hours total in a dump truck, some more time on tractors and equipment, but that's an entirely different operation and feel.

My dad drove my '66 home as I was not at all confident to drive it the 45min-1hr drive home. I worked on the car making it my own for over a year before I decided, yup. Now's the time to take this thing out tonight and learn.

Around 10pm, I climbed in, rev'd and dumped the clutch at three stop signs until I got to a large parking lot at a local church. (Closest open space to my parents house at the time)
I proceeded to start and stop around the lot until I felt comfortable enough to take it to the streets. I killed it at the second stop sign and returned to the lot. A couple more attempts and back out to the street. From then on, I could confidently get in anything with a standard transmission, and as long as I knew the shift pattern and could get a feel for the clutch slipping point. I can drive it.