is the engine in the car with trans and drive train installed or on a stand?

 

The car is on the stand. Thank you.

 

How and where can I safely get a leverage when tightening the harmonic balancer bolt?

I put 2 bolts in the damper and used a square shank prybar to hold it while I tightened the bolt.

I am using an ARP bolt so I need to tighten it at 120 ft/lbs per ARP's instructions.

My car is a 66 and the shop manual states 90 ft/lbs, not quite understanding why ARP lists it at 120 if Ford engineers calculated it needed 90 ft/lbs. I'm aware of the difference in bolt material, just not understanding why their bolt has to be 30 ft/lbs more. :shrug:

 

How and where can I safely get a leverage when tightening the harmonic balancer bolt?

I put 2 bolts in the damper and used a square shank prybar to hold it while I tightened the bolt.

I am using an ARP bolt so I need to tighten it at 120 ft/lbs per ARP's instructions.

My car is a 66 and the shop manual states 90 ft/lbs, not quite understanding why ARP lists it at 120 if Ford engineers calculated it needed 90 ft/lbs. I'm aware of the difference in bolt material, just not understanding why their bolt has to be 30 ft/lbs more.

I did compare that number with the manual. I'm ok following the ford manual. Using a pry bar is the only way to do it? I don't want to mess up the balancer. Thank you.

 

Forget the spec's. Use an impact wrench. Brian

 

That's what I do. Ugga dugga it until it stops tightening.

 

I use a flywheel holding tool similar tom the one in the link.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80510-Flywheel-Turner/dp/B000FW4N5G

 

Install it according to ARP instructions. Use the ARP thread lube that came with it and torque it to ARP specs. Use a factory Ford balancer bolt If you want to do according to the ford manual. Do not use an impact to tighten it. I have seen a lot of butchered up engine parts and fasteners that broke or came out because the instructions were not followed. If the bolt doesnt have enough clamping force on the balancer it can back out and cause the balancer and the keyway in the cast crank can break out, I have seen that happen and you get to replace the crank.

 

I will try to wrestle with it again today and see what happens.

 

The factory bolt is grade 8 and will do everything the ARP will. You would all be smart to use the thicker ( nearly double) thickness washer from the 289HP/Boss 302 engines unless engine stays under 5,500 rpm. They don't deform like the thin ones do at increased torque value needed for higher rpm operation. Do NOT use locktite either! There many things done to racing engines that do not need to be done to normal rebuilt/mild upgrade engines. "I" use 125-150 on high rpm Fords. Remember this is a vibration dampner and the bolt diameter is 5/8ths, THE largest diameter bolt on the engine! Those torque vales will not hurt a thing.

 

I run some bolts into the back of the engine where the flywheel bolts on. Then put a long pry bar in between them. As you rotate the crank the pry bar will get jammed against one of the arms on the engine stand and keep the crank from rotating.


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I will try your method. Thank you.

 

Put #1 piston at bottom dead center at the end of the intake stroke. Thread a bunch of clothesline rope into the cylinder, leaving at least 6 inches out of the hole, then slowly rotate the engine until the piston compresses the rope between the top of the piston and head. Tighten away.

 

If the engine is on a stand can't you just pull the oil pan and block the crank? That's what I did to get mine off and now that I'm reassembling that's what I'll do to reinstall it.

 

You can ,but the method as described by lizer is probably safer

 

I use a 6" long 1.5" wide piece of steel stock with 2 holes on either end. I bolt to the back of the block (bell housing mount hole), and then to a flywheel hole, such as for the clutch. This holds it from moving. I also use this piece for the final torque on flywheel bolts.

 

Good idea. Thank you.

 

zhlange,
You can't harm the balancer by torquing the bolt more. You will do more damage if the bolt is too loose!

 

This is my first build so I'm always skeptical.

 

My first build was over 50 years ago and I didn't have the internet to go to. LOL That is one of the reasons I like to give back the stuff I had to learn the hard way.

 

I always appreciate passed on knowledge. I like to think that I learn something new everyday.

 

zhlange,
I am STILL a student!!! As much as I know and have done I still learn something new "almost" everyday. NO ONE knows it all. For example I couldn't help you do paint and body work but I will chime in on drivetrain stuff. I know my limits. LOL

 

What is important to understand is that orque is a function of the lube. IF you us arp lube use arp torque otherwise fo stock. I got a long lecture on this by a my machinist. Most torques are specified with 30 wt. SS is right follow arp recomendations...