If you’re talking about a simple pointless system, pertronics is popular. I have run the first series for years without issue. I’ve heard of problems either the ll series, maybe they fixed it. Haven’t really heard anything yet on the lll series.
I know nothing about the MDS performance systems. Others will chime in if that’s what you’re asking about.

 

Pertronics is probably the easiest or a ford duraspark distributor and hei box.

 

Why do you want to change to electronic? You may get a slightly better idle, but it won't run better than what Henry put in it originally, and the old stuff is less likely to leave you sitting beside the road. I have nothing against electronic, but points and condenser are just simpler than electronics, so less can go wrong.

 

What Mach1 Driver said. I had pertronix 2 for a little over 9 months. First module lasted 9 months, second lasted 10 days. Went back to points and condenser. I do not see any change in performance. Yes, I have to check points gap and dwell so I include that step in my yearly maintainance.

 

Depending on where you live, you may be able to go to a salvage yard and get a Ford Duraspark II distributor and box for $20. They work great.

 

No matter what you do it sounds like sending the distributor off for a rebuild and recurve is money well spent.

 

I have a 75 351w ford van. It has an extremely simple electronic dist setup. I would start your search in the 1975 302 range, check out ebay etc. I would bet you could get a whole setup for around $60 (just guessing).

 

A properly set up points system runs just fine. Parts are cheap, setup is easy and if you have a little knowledge, won't leave you on the side of the road.

Pertronix is a very popular swap that's about $100 at the low end. The Pertronix 1 is a drop in system that replaces the points & condenser in the distributor. Lots of people have had good success with them, many have their points and condenser in the glovebox - just in case.

Duraspark is Ford's electronic ignition system from the 70s. It's a robust system that's fairly easy to wire, but will require more work. You'd need to swap the distributor, then mount and wire the control box. If you bought all new parts, figure about $200 here.

 

Another vote for the Duraspark. I’m slowing replacing all my Pertronix conversions to Duraspark. The cars fire quicker and idle better with the Duraspark, in my experience.

If you want to keep it essentially looking all stock, Pertronix is the way to go, but the performance is better with the Duraspark.

 

Dura probably has built in advance for startups. Good info to know, thanks for the inside scoop!

 

I use the MOPAR box because it's more compact and, IMHO, "durable" than the factory DurasparkII ECU. After our last installation, I recommend placing a piece of aluminum plate with a dedicated chassis ground wire, between the ECU and its mounting location. The ECU must also have a bare metal surface on the back side where mounted.

 

There is also a duraspark II I believe, which is what I think I have. It has a control box about the size of a slice of bread. Probably has updated electronics too. After all the dust settled, I wonder which is better for a standard electronic unit? Hmmmm.........

 

Many choices.
I replaced the old electronic after-market system that was in my car with a DuraSpark. I like it for two main reasons. One, it's OEM and you can get replacement parts at any auto store. Two, the timing retards automatically at start which makes it easier to crank and start, especially when the engine is hot.
I agree that you should consider having the distributor refurbished if it's older, or get a new rebuilt distributor with proper internals. Either way, have someone check the advance curves. I sent mine to Dan at the Mustang Barn (in PA).

 

Just to throw fuel into the fire, has anyone seen the Ford distributors with built in Chevy HEI cap/spark module/rotor fo $50 on ebay? Im tempted to try one of those for grins and giggles.

Now that I am thinking about it on circuit board level, not sure if the duraspark II has a built in timing map for the 302 through the RPM range, and, or just a retard for startups, as opposed to the frankenstein Ebay distributor module??????

 

The DurasparkII distributor is a simple magnetic trigger with 8 spokes on a reluctor wheel replacing the 8 lobes on a breaker point cam, and a proximity sensor that ripples a voltage signal each time a spoke passes it. The spark advance mechanism is exactly the same as used in a breaker point distributor and only the "red plug" DS ECU offers timing retard on start. The common misconception is that HEI, multiple sparks, more coil supply voltage, etc., will make the engine more powerful when the only thing it will make faster is money leaving your wallet.

 

Been 30 years since I played with one, but will take your word for it as it makes sense to have the spark on the downwrd swing, instead of fighting the upward swing of the piston. Dyslexia got the best of me.

 

I do not believe the Red grommet Durapark 1 has the ignition retard function on startup,
as there is no ballast resistor used in that setup.
Duraspark 1 was used on California cars 1977, California 302 V8 only, 1978-1979.
D7AZ-12A199-A is the module part number.
It has a higher spark output and once upon a time was regarded as the module to use back
in the late '70s and '80s. Red doesn't use a ballast resistor. It senses current flow through
the coil and dynamically mods the dwell for maximum spark.
Red will fire both lean and fat fuel mixtures that the Durospark II won't.
The wiring for Red is different, the module itself is pricier and the coil has different electrical
values.

 

I have the factory Duraspark system. It works great. What I like the Duraspark, it’s a factory designed system that’s well developed to rigorous durability requirements and performance. A lot of time and money was spent on the design.