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Wheelhop, who’s got it and what was the fix.

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11K views 33 replies 28 participants last post by  cheapbastard  
#1 ·
So I finally got my 67 coupe together and running after about 19 years. The car has a 331, T5 and a Detroit locker diff with 3:89 gears. The suspension is from Mustangs Plus. The rear suspension has the 5 leaf springs with the mid-eye front mount. The rear shackles have poly bushings and there’s also a 7/8 rear sway bar. The car has some serious wheelhop under wot in 1st and 2nd. It’s not a drag car, but I want it to do nice clean no-hop burnouts, or just hook. 1st gear is pretty much worthless as far as traction is concerned.

What have y’all done to fix wheelhop in our early Mustangs?
 
#12 ·
Old school slappers

They go around corners too
Yeah, lot of more elegant, modern solutions but they still work, are much quicker to install and cheaper than other solutions. I ran them on very warmed over Boss 351 and they made BIG difference.
 

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#3 ·
As mentioned, Traction bars would be the least expensive and most effective device. Summit Racing® Traction Bars SUM-770501

I installed Traction Master Under Ride bars, many do not like them stating binding issues. I have had no problems with them for the year that I have had them on the car. These are a little more expensive, require welding but as less visible.

I hope to give them a little workout at the 2020 PITS little Auto-X event.
741086
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#8 ·
I remember years ago I did a 2D computer simulation of the rear axle and leaf spring to simulate wheel hop on my Mustang. It was hilarious to watch the spring wrap up like spaghetti and the axle hop up and down like a basket ball... hilarious to watch on the computer screen, but oh so violent when you are in the car thinking the rear axle is gonna fly through the trunk!

I originally installed the shelby underride traction bars. Then proceeded to tear the front mount in two. I then switched to a damped telescoping type of my own design very similar to the slide-a-link type bars, and haven't had any issues since. The underride style traction bars need a soft bushing to allow the axle to move up and down without binding, but a stiff bushing to keep the axle from twisting under heavy acceleration... so you have to sacrifice one for the other with that type of bar. A slapper bar would work fine, but they can be unsightly. A half leaf would also work well, but may not be enough depending on how much power and traction you are dealing with. The telescoping type is adjustable (preload, over all shock load) but is pricey and might be way overkill depending on the planned usage of your Mustang. There are many ways to skin this cat, so your intended use, budget, and bling factor all come into play. Choose wisely ;)
 
#11 ·
^^^^that should be the first consideration. What are the #rates of these "MustangPlus" springs? 125# or maybe a bit more if lucky? Plus any rubber deflection. If MM considers 165# as "race" then I am very happy with my SD springs listed as 155#, Heco en Indio and under $200. Prol 50% less power than the OP but I felt like I could rip out the entire rear on the old OE leafs.
 
#14 ·
Divorce and life in general. Made a choice between it and the 65. 65 had the sentimental value, was less temperamental and over all more fun. That built motor sounded like a lot of fun in the beginning but the reality was it expensive to put hi dollar octane booster (the real stuff) in a car that got 12 MPG. It liked to blow header gaskets. Competition clutch and pressure plate that was a left leg workout. Sometimes I want to kick myself for letting it go but the guy that got it and restored it to factory was much more knowledgeable and had the tools to do it and the humbling harsh reality is that the 21 year old kid I was at the time wasn't ready for a project like that.
 
#16 ·
I have yet to drive the car, but I put in some CalTracs with the hopes of minimizing wheel hop. Have a 408 stroker in a convertible with AODE and 9" 3.5 rear end
741212
 
#18 ·
If you are cheap (and poor) you can also engineer a reasonable facsimile of them for much cheaper with help from the mighty Google.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the replies everybody, been down with the flu.

I’ve always liked the vintage look of slapper bars. Any time I see a guy roll up in a leaf spring car with a set of Caltrac bars it’s usually a sign the car is fast. I was hoping to keep the car as sleepy as possible, but like someone above said, ‘it feels like the diff is going to come through the floor”.

Second question: what’s everybody’s opinion on pinion angle? What’s an ideal range to be in?
 
#21 · (Edited)
The Bilstien shocks made the biggest difference for me on wheel hop. Started out with stock springs. SD 4.5 mid eyes with SD under-ride traction bars, better. SD 4.5 mid eyes with SD under-ride traction bars and Bilstien shocks, better yet. Global West reverse eye springs with Del-a-lum bushings without the traction bars seem to be even better, but not a cure, as I've only been able to test in 45º global warming temperatures in the formerly arctic North. Leaf springs are going to wheel hop by design. Thats what they do. I've never heard of anyone autocrossing with Caltracs?

The rubber bushings on my SD version of the Traction master bars were oval shaped after one season of autocross. Probably a solution for the weekend car.
 
#24 ·
When I bought my 67 coupe, 390, 4 speed car it had old school slapper bars on it. I personally don't like the look, so I removed them. I guess they really do work, because even with new 5 leaf springs, the wheel hop was now violent! Ponied up for the Caltracs and problem is solved. So, if you like the slapper bar look, there's your cheap & easy answer.
 
#25 ·
Nice set of rear shocks and 5-leaf 185lbs rear springs are decent for a small block. Since you're running a 331 that's moderately built, this may not be enough on its own and you may have to resort to traction bars.

Easy to fabricate from tubular steel; pretty expensive for what they are though to buy.
 
#27 ·
I also had violent wheel hop in my 1966 coupe with a 347, Top Loader 4 Speed and 3.55 posi rear. I installed Caltracs, adjusted them per their instructions and have been thrilled with the results. I have not had even the slightest hint of wheel hop since installing them.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Yes I did clamp an extra half leaf cut from an old set, to my five leafs. It finally eliminated my wheel hop completely. 5 leafs and Konis didn’t get the job done. John at Opentracker gave me the heads up. But what I really notice is that under hard braking, The car is much more controllable while cornering in autocross. I can go deep into the corners now and hit the brakes hard, and the car just squats on all four and turns in hard. All the way through the corner including coming out of the corner when my foot hits the floor, the car is really controllable. My rear spring rates are no longer changing as the rear end wraps the springs in either direction, brake or throttle. I actually did it as a test, thinking it would not be permanent, but It made such a huge difference they’re still on there and of course, it lights ‘em up now... :eek:)))))
 
#33 ·
before I switched motors to the 408 stroker, I replaced the rear leaf springs with a heavier duty pair that had an extra leaf. Between that and the slapper bars, I have not had any wheel hop. At the strip I run Hoosier 325/50 15" Drag Radials
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