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Yet another what carb should I run thread.

2.4K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  LS3to302  
#1 ·
I'm slowly working out the bugs in my new set up. It currently has a borrowed demon 650 double pumper. I know it has too much carb on it now as it stumbles and smells rich even leaned almost all the way out. I was thinking I would run a Holley 600 but I've been researching and using cfm calculators, it seems a Holley 500 may be a better match? Currently set up:

306 roller
E303 cam
E7 heads
Weiand stealth intake
2.8 rear C4

Future plans:
AFR 165 or similar
T5 trans
3.25 rear


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#6 ·
The demon 650 is borrowed. The screws are 1 turn out from closed. I won't be using this carb anyhow. I'm just curious as to which carb out of the box will be a better fit. I'm thinking the Holley 500 may run better than the 600. I don't plan to spin it much over 5500 rpm.


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#7 · (Edited)
Why spend money when you may not have to?

As Buckeye said, If you close the 4 mixture screws the carb should die. If it does not your 2, yes 2 idle screws are set too high allowing the carb to work off more than the idle circuit.
The first idle screw is obvious however there is a second screw (actually a hex key) in the choke area. Both idle screws musts be adjusted at the same time. A Demon is really not much different than a Holley.
Don't get caught up in the entire CFM debate. Any carb over 500cfm can be made to work with a 289/302.

I run my mixtures only 3/4 out
 
#8 ·
This carburetor is not mine guys. I borrowed it from a friend to set timing and make some adjustments. It is a reference point.

I'll look for the second mix screw referenced above to see if I can get it closer.



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#9 ·
It depends on what you like. The Autolite 4100 is a great carb. People claim you can find them on ebay. If so, that would be a good option. You might try to find a big block example. I think those are around 500 CFM.

The Edelbrock carbs are great for the street. You can change the jets and metering rods without removing it from the intake. I ran one on the street for many years and really liked it.

A Holley probably has better top end performance. I've never run one. My brother used to run Holleys and he was always messing with them because they were honked. This may no longer be the case. I'm sure if you get a new one or properly recondition an old example, it would be fine. The trick is to get the right Holley for your setup. All too many people bolt a 750 mechanical double pumper onto a 302 with an automatic trans and wonder why it's not running so well.

If it's in your budget, take a look a the Quick Fuel carbs. I've been talking to those guys about a carb for my Cleveland. Not cheap, but they'll build you whatever you want. Everyone I've talked to who has run a Quick Fuel is extremely happy with it.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
demon 650 double pumper.

I know it has too much carb on it now as it stumbles and smells rich even leaned almost all the way out. I was thinking I would run a Holley 600 but I've been researching and using cfm calculators, it seems a Holley 500 may be a better match? Currently set up:

306 roller
E303 cam
E7 heads
Weiand stealth intake
2.8 rear C4

Future plans:
AFR 165 or similar
T5 trans
3.25 rear
That's a a little too big for the cam and E7 heads, but not fatally. What is killing you is the double-pumper feature on an auto trans, coupled with your 2.8 rear. Tuning the carb can't fix that. A smaller carb, even a 1.08 Autolite 4100, would run much better. Later, when you upgrade the heads and rear, you might consider moving up to a 600 carb. Consider the Summit 600. I like them. They have the good features of the 4100, and use Holley 4160 tuning parts. It won't break the bank, either. Alternately, you could use a 600 Autolite, but that would involve custom work, as you'd have to alter a big-block carb to work on your smallbock. Doable, but expensive, having a BB retumed to work on a SB.
 
#15 ·
What is nice about the Autolite 4100 and Edelbrock carb is that they use annular boosters which atomize the air/fuel mixture much better then the straight or down leg boosters. The car runs smoother and more efficient. Summits own carb as well as the Motor craft 4180 used on 83-85 5.0 Mustangs have this type of booster as well.

With the jet and metering rod that Edelbrock uses allows you to mix and match so you can fine tune the fuel curve. Similar to altering the air by pass jets.
 
#16 ·
I also recommend the Autolite 4100, but I'd go with the 1.12" venturi version...it give you a little room to grow. eBay is loaded with them from used ones $75 and up and freshly rebuilt ones in the $275-289 range. A good Autolite carb tuner can set one up nicely and once done you'll most likely NEVER have to mess with it again.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Yeah, some guys like to go with aftermarket everything; especially Chevy guys. It seems to me Ford guys better appreciate original equipment.

Although, a high school friend of mine drove a 1956 Chevy 2 door hardtop; very nice car. He was an unusual Chevy guy in that he liked factory parts, like a Ford guy. He installed a 350 with a Corvette solid lifter cam, Q-Jet carb, cast iron intake, 4-speed and a 4.11 Posi-traction rear end. That car was a street terror! Other Chevy guys couldn't believe the power my friend had in that car without a single aftermarket part. Many a Camaro guy knew what it was to be spanked a big, heavy Chevy I can tell you. Even as a Ford nut, I was very impressed with that '56 Chevy. And it made me appreciate US factory parts all the more.

So, yeah. If you know what to use, the factory stuff can serve you quite well. Sure, there's some impressive modern, aftermarket stuff. But those engineers knew what they were doing back then. Because you can't click and buy it at Summit.com, most people don't consider it. The Autolite carb is a great carb.
 
#21 · (Edited)
^ don't be so sensitive. It's the internet, and as I stated I was being polite since you were only trying to help me. Thank you for the information.


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