They are a work of art and functional to boot!

John

 

Thanks ! It's great to have a small part in your projects. Remember to send me a couple of photos when the cars are on the road.


Z

 

What’s a Z cross member?

 

Where's the 'dislike' button to click...:wink:

 

I was being serious.
I have no clue what these crossmembers are.
Although I’m assuming that Zray makes them.

 

Here's a nice description (not my website)

Engine crossmember upgrade

 

Title of the thread said "Z day". Fixed that little typo.

 

Thanks. Now I understand. I’ve seen it on opentracker.

 

Yes, that's the same crossmember as the one listed here in the VMF ads . John @ Opentracker was very kind to include my crossmember(s) in his website, Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products. His "stamp of approval" is about the best endorsement one can get in the vintage Mustang world, imho.

note: the photos of the crossmember on Opentracker are not up to date, and show the crossmember I first was producing. The VMF ads show the current, and dare I say, improved style, which has more clearance around the oil pan as well as more ground clearance.

Again, many thanks to everyone for the kind remarks. And also to GypsyR, thanks for fixing the typo. I was about to go to city hall and change my name to "Z Day"

. .

Z

 

Another thumbs up for Zray's crossmember. Quality made, bolted right in, love the jack pad. Awesome!

 

Has anyone broken the inner bolt loose before? I wondering how its made like is it a failure point to be mindful off when bolting zbars in? Would the bolt break first?

 

The original crossmember frame bolt occasionally takes some effort to remove if it's been in there for a number of years, and the car has some rust issues. It's a difficult spot to get thread penetrating liquid to be effective. If the bolt doesn't come out easily, I use a can of CRC Freeze-Off on it then whack the bolt head squarely a few times with a little mini 4 lb. sledge hammer. That usually is enough to get the threads loosened and removal is straightforward from then on.

During assembly the frame bolt is torqued 45 to 60 ft. lbs. not extreme given the bolt is a 1/2"-13 and has a grade 8 rating. I've never had one break when the torque spec. is followed, and the threads clean and lightly oiled.

Note: the crossmember frame bolt is a unique bolt and a regular bolt cannot be used. It has a conical shaped shaft that makes contact with the crossmember and locks the crossmember in place, allowing no movement.. they are available thru AMK or NPD. I machine my crossmember to have a beveled frame bolt hole that matches the angle of the bolt shaft where it makes contact. This in another improvement over the stock crossmember and ensures the crossmember is exerting the maximum possible holding power when bolted in.

Z

 

Well who would have thought that if you waited there would be an improved version! It fit like a glove around the cobra pan, and I use the jack pad with a low profile floor jack...very safe/easy to jack it up now!!!. I will be getting another for the 20 thousand dollar 65 coup I am slowly remanufactureing....

 

Another positive review for the Zray crossmember, much more stout unit, and allowed a little bit of rearward movement with my RMP motor mounts down a 1/2" around my Canton RR pan. I think I have about 3/16" clearance between the pan and the jack pad. These old cars need stiffening, and Z's unit helps. One of these days when I motivate to do a build thread I will add pics

 

I love the jack pad. I also added camber plates and Z's bar fit perfectly for each set of camber plates. I've had it on and off in a breeze while trying different camber settings.


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I have a ZRay crossmember, I just put the camber kit in! What size spacer did you use if any to install cross member?

 

Yet another very satisfied customer. It was mind blowing when you take a 50+ year old car if iffy build quality, road abuse, owner abuse and mods such as a camber kit and this part simple fit. In his instructions Zray said to expect to oen the 2 frame bolt holes for the conical bolts. I barely and I do men barely had to slightly file each hole with a rat tail. I could have installed it without filing though, the bolts were barely touching. I was blown away. My canton pan was hitting on the stock cross member in a couple spots. Tons of room with his. I also got the jack pad

 

If the frame bolt holes don't line up in the center of the crossmember holes, how do the conical bolts seat properly?
I am imagining it like a stock wheel and having all the studs touching the outside of the wheel bolt holes.
I am not trying to be an a$$, but I am not seeing this clearly. :smile2:
I have not seen a Zray crossmember in person, but have heard nothing but praise for the product.
I think I will get one eventually.

 

The measurements of these cars are not consistent by today’s standards. One thing I can tell You from working with him he will provide the support you need to ensure it fits. If you are considering one imo the first thing to do is get under the car and get the exact Center to Center mounting bolt measurements. Let Z know what numbers you come up with then he can use that info to check his.


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If anything Z’s part will put things back to where they’re suppose to be. It’s a beefy part, stronger then The unibody at that point.

 

The stock crossmember reminds me of a piece of exhaust pipe someone bent up in their garage.
Functional, but just enough. Not Ford's fault, it's what you get with mass-produced parts.

Ray's crossmember is stout, well engineered, and well-manufactured.
Mine fits perfectly, probably the only part on the entire car that has.

 

i can fully agree , mine was also a perfect fit and could notice a good improvement on the car's handling

arthur

 

Is there a version for a 1967 convertible? Not quite sure where to buy, thanks for any help

 

You can email or PM me for any details.

zray289@gmail.com

Details are in the posts over in the For Sale section.
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...sale/1132369-z-s-1967-70-low-profile-street-competition-engine-crossmember.html

Though this might help too: Paging @zray . @zray please pick up the white courtesy phone.

Thanks !!!


Z

 

Details are in the posts over in the For Sale section.
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...sale/1132369-z-s-1967-70-low-profile-street-competition-engine-crossmember.html

Though this might help too: Paging @zray . @zray please pick up the white courtesy phone.

 

Got my cross member in today from Zray.
This thing is NICE!
Almost too nice to put under a car.
Very sturdy, very strong.
Installed effortlessly.
Line up perfectly.

And..... not to be left out. His customer service and response times are unmatched in my experience on this journey I started a couple months ago.
Answered a handful of questions without delay. Even late in evening.
And for the record, I don’t know him, never met him. Just thought he deserved it in a world where parts half the time don’t fit.


Highly recommended.




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Great guy, great product for sure.

 

I'm another happy ZRay customer. My car was missing the crossmember, he patiently worked with me while I had to grind out the long-broken remnants of the original bolt. When things didn't look quite right a photo did the trick and the next day I had new bolts for the control arm part.

 

On my wish list

 

And yet another satisfied customer. No issues at all. Went in easy and fit great. Considering I replaced everything around it, it was easy. 4 thumbs up.

 

Installed ZRay's low profile crossmember on our 66 convertible this weekend, along with a complete Global West suspension. A nice addition, I especially like the jacking pad. Fit was great, only requiring a slight tweak on one hole. Haven't driven the car yet, as I have to align it first. ZRay is a great communicator who really seems to care. Recommended.

 

ZRay is a best in class supplier and hobbyist!
As good as it gets in my opinion...
My support bracket on my last car fit like a glove.




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