Your going to hate it, At least I did. I still have the Slow:1 box but I installed a Shelby Quick steer kit to make up the difference and now it's pretty good

 

I already dropped the coin on the roller idler arm to replace the original on the 66 mustang. This blows.

 

Buy a new flaming river box.

1965-66 Mustang Long Shaft Steering Box: 1

1965-66 Mustang Long Shaft Steering Box: 1

www.flamingriver.com

 

I'm guessing you agree that I'll hate the 19:1.
Ohhhhh, the car hobby strikes again! LOL

 

I mean if your used to slow steering or aren’t looking for a desired output for a minimal input, hate my be a strong word. However, if you have driven the car with a properly adjusted 16:1 box then hate might be the appropriate word.

 

I drove it to the body shop and back. That was it. So, I have nothing to compare it to. But, I'm not wanting to build a boat here.
I can go FR box for about $600 or a 19:1 box for $300.

I just dont want to spend the money on the 19:1 box and then spend the money on a quick steer to get it closer. I'll be doing more highway driving than parking lot shenanigans.

 

Wait until you can find a 16:1 box or buy the Flaming River. You'll be disappointed with a 19:1 box.
FWIW: A short shaft 16:1 box from a late '67-'70 will physically bolt into your '66 but you'll need to do some other mods to make it work. That would be a good time to swap your steering column for an '87-'91 F series tilt wheel column. I posted a thread on how to do that in the past.

 

Wait until you can find a 16:1 box or buy the Flaming River. You'll be disappointed with a 19:1 box.
FWIW: A short shaft 16:1 box from a late '67-'70 will physically bolt into your '66 but you'll need to do some other mods to make it work. That would be a good time to swap your steering column for an '87-'91 F series tilt wheel column. I posted a thread on how to do that in the past.

Link?

I’d like to read.

 

Or get a rebuild-able 16:1 box from a good donor car. I got a box labled as a "core, for parts" off ebay for 50 bucks, it was super tight and cleaned up, I bolted it in and WOW. That was years ago. The ones from power steering cars tend to be in better shape.

 

Is the power steering box and the manual box the same thing? Is it just plugged off on the power steering?

 

^^^ right. I have one manual car that came with slow but easy 19:1, swapped to a externally identical 16:1 power box (there are no lines to hook up to the box - all the hoses are pump to cylinder and back), and another car with factory power steering still installed. So, both cars are @ 4 turns lock-to-lock.

 

The power steering cars and the GT manual steering cars came with the 16:1 boxes. They have different ID letters on the tag but the only difference between them is the bearing preload value.
As stated, there is nothing in the steering box that is related to power steering fluid until 1971.

 

Weird. Didn't know that you could interchange the manual and power steering boxes.
I guess at this juncture it's just time to bite the bullet and pickup the Flaming River box.

 

Weird. Didn't know that you could interchange the manual and power steering boxes.
I guess at this juncture it's just time to bite the bullet and pickup the Flaming River box.

Read some reviews before you throw down cash. I've heard complaints of them being just shy of dangerous. But that's the internet.

 

I added the Shelby quick steer kit to my 19:1 manual steering. It made a huge difference. It might be a cheaper option for you, and you get to stick with an OEM box. I’m upgrading to a 16:1 box because I stumbled into one, but my 19:1 with the kit was fine for highway driving.

 

Itll work out to be the same price roughly between the flaming river and the quick steer and a rebuilt 19:1.

I just picked up a 16:1 from a local mustang salvage shop and sent it to Chock. They are out there.

But, do I really want to go digging? Or do I want to move forward? LOL, sounds like you agree that 16:1 is a better route over 19:1.
Chock said they're getting harder to find.

Link?

I’d like to read.

Agreed, I tried searching but got sidetracked.

 

You might actually be disappointed with the 16:1 compared to modern stuff. If you're willing to get the roller arms you might get even more upgrades while at it. Like a rag joint, collapsible shaft and an even closer ratio if one is out there.

 

I just picked up a 16:1 from a local mustang salvage shop and sent it to Chock. They are out there.

 

And that box is a Excellent rebuilder.

Poster box has to be one of the most worn out ones I've see.

 

Flaming River..... I wouldn't use their stuff for a paperweight. With internal pieces made in Argentina, the casing and forging capital of the world,
there's just no way. I can't remember the Rockwell numbers on the 40's Ford sector/worms that are manufactured there, but they were not good.
(somewhere around a hardness 8 points lower than factory on the Rockwell scale)

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

I'd use a PS box from a rusty wreck before I'd use the FR. Worth doing some digging.

 

The new argentina boxes are JUNK. I can't say brand here but the brand has been stated several times on the post.
Try to adjust on of those after the 10 thousand mile needed adjustment--NO way in hell to get the slop out, set it up to specs.
Take out, or drive 10 to 2.

 

1965 1966 1967 Mustang Fastback ORIG GT M/S P/S STEERING GEAR BOX 16:1 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1965 1966 1967 Mustang Fastback ORIG GT M/S P/S STEERING GEAR BOX 16:1 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

Someone said above that GT boxes were all 4 turn boxes. For 65-66 that was true, for 1967, all GT equipped cars came with standard 5 turn boxes if you stayed with manual steering. Mine came with the 5 turn manual box, and for corroboration sake Road and Track magazine's 4 speed GT 289 manual steering hardtop they tested in spring of '67 had it too (R&T complained about the slow steering manual box but also remarked how faster steering was an option, but they did not like anticipating the turning effort of the faster manual box; I still have that original issue). It was still hard enough to turn with the V8 and wider GT option tires. I still remember in the early '70's, my mother, who is petite in size, would holler "left turn" and three or four sets of hands would reach around from the other seats to help her crank it around. However Dad swears it was fairly easy when new. So I dunno.
The 16:1 manual box WAS an option for '67, it came only with the Competition Handling package (expensive option and rarely seen), along with adjustable shocks, firmer springs, 15 inch wheels, etc and the C H Package also required the GT option as well as the K or S code engine as a pre-requisite. The idea of a heavy FE 390 with fast ratio manual steering and large tires gives me pause when considering parallel parking!

 

According to this link, the 67 16:1 steering boxes yielded a 3-3/4 turns lock to lock. Is that inaccurate?
http://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/DanJonesSteeringBoxRatios.html

Also, my 67 fastback happens to be one of those rare Competition Handling Package GT's, with a 390 (only 93 were built as a fastback, 390, with 4 speed - according to my deluxe marti report) The car had power steering on it when my parents bought it back in '94. The marti report doesn't list the power steering as an option, so I assume it was installed by a PO. I'm actually taking it back to manual steering. It has the original 16:1 box and I just received it back from Roger Rode, whom rebuilt it last month. Anyways, I'm very curious what the steering is going to be like since I've actually never driven the car. The front end will be lighter since I'll not be re-installing the AC for a while, not re-installing the PS, and have aluminum intake, heads, and water pump on the engine. Also will have FPA headers. Hopefully that makes it all a bit more nimble and easier to steer with manual steering! As a side note, I'm trying to keep as much of the Compitition Handling Package as I can, by keeping the shock towers and original type front suspension, original 15/16" sway bar, and the rear shelby leaf springs, quick ratio manual steering, and 3.25 limited slip rear. I have the original front springs but decided to go coilover so I could better set ride height.

 

Man you guys are rough. I wonder how many of you bashing the FR box actually have used one for 10K mikes versus what you have read on the internet. I’m sure the likes of Dan and David have seen their share, but you other band wagoners??? I happen to know several FR users that have raced, yes raced the FR boxes for years with no problems.

 

I've heard some of the same. I simply can't make a personal recommendation though. If I'm reading correctly @CHOCK can't convert a 19 to a 16 at this point in time? That WAS my plan.

Allen

 

I know a guy with a FR box has a a good bit of track/AC time on the car last time I was under it it was a little loose

 

@cturboaddict - I have a 16:1 in my converted T code non-power steering. If you can find one and can afford it, by all means. Otherwise, save the cash and enjoy.

 

Great news!!!! Chock was able to work his Mustang Magic and got it rebuilt with some additional work and part sourcing!!!
Put a huge smile on my face today when I got the call!

 

What do you guys think of this?

1967 Ford Mustang Manual Steering Gear Box Manual Steering - 6-3/16in short input shaft - 16-1 Ratio and 1in Output Shaft Diameter or WITH TAG SMB-E 82-70137 R

1967 Ford Mustang Manual Steering Gear Box Manual Steering - 6-3/16in short input shaft - 16-1 Ratio and 1in Output Shaft Diameter or WITH TAG SMB-E 82-70137 R Manual Steering Gear Box 16 Pounds

www.buyautoparts.com

I've always wanted to get rid of my long shaft box to open future options like EPAS.

EDIT:

I don't know why the link doesn't work. Not sure if it's the new forum or the vendor's website. Copy / Paste maybe:

buyautoparts.com/buynow/1967/Ford/Mustang/Manual_Steering_Gear_Box/82-70137_R

 

That sounds like a great package. The lighter heads, w pump, intake, headers etc. removes enough weight that it is close to a Ford SB in actual poundage. That will significantly reduce front end plow, lighten the steering noticeably. Have you added the roller idler arm? Sounds like a fun car indeed.

 

That sounds like a great package. The lighter heads, w pump, intake, headers etc. removes enough weight that it is close to a Ford SB in actual poundage. That will significantly reduce front end plow, lighten the steering noticeably. Have you added the roller idler arm? Sounds like a fun car indeed.

Thanks, I'm certainly looking forward to getting it done. Unfortunately, I'm still working on the body and the engine is still at the builder. I do have a brand new roller idler arm that came from Opentracker, via Street or Track. I've heard the roller really helps the manual steering.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

Do I hate my 19:1 manual steering box? No. But for the majority of the driving in my daily driven 69, it is more enjoyable than the 16:1 Flaming River box I removed. I believe manual vs power steering, and ratios are subjective like which color should I paint my car. So ymmv.

I take at least one long 2,500 to 5,000 mile trip a year, and several 500 mile trips. While at speed, the 16:1 is obviously more enjoyable. But the ease of daily local driving is worth it to ME.

I logged around 10k miles on the FR box without issue. After reading bad reviews on the FR box, wanting real Henry metal, and a bit easier steering, I talked it over with Chock and put in a rebuilt 19:1 manual box from him. I may have solved a problem I didn't have, but I don't dread parking lots any longer, and freeway driving is not unacceptable with the looser ratio.

 

Sad news.
Sent my tired 16:1 box that was originally on my 66 car to Chocostang to get it rebuilt. He says it's beyond rebuild and would need an extensive amount of work. He doesn't have another 16:1 box around, but he does have Ford OEM 5 turn 19:1 boxes that he could send me rebuilt along with my old old/tired 16:1 box.

Before I pull the trigger, am I going to hate that ratio? I do have roller idler arm, and 215/45R17 front tires. It's going to be a driver with a 331 and 4r70w. Not doing any track racing, mostly cruising to and from work.
I feel bummed, should I?

I put the Flaming River box in mine. Would not recommend the 19-1 box. Way to slow for manual steering.

 

What about the cpp gear box?
It has 13:1 ratio.
His there quality?