Soooooo Doug, when you gonna post a new video???

 

Hey I gotta do that!!

 

I was going to ask the same question. I enjoyed watching your other video clips.

 

Ohhh goodie, another vid coming!!!! Can't wait. irate: irate:
And I'm so glad you got the 427 got sorted out. A hot running 427 is a thing to be feared!
Go for it!! :burnout:

 

It was almost dark tonight when I posted this so it was too late to shoot a video and tomorrow they're calling for rain so I'm not sure how soon I'll be able to shoot one but you can bet I will as soon as I get a chance. There MIGHT be a chance you'll see a little tire smoke!

 

Glad to hear you got it straightened out doug! At least they caught the cam before it hurt something.

 

Any guesses as to why this happened?

 

Any guesses as to why this happened?

same question here. i would be very interested in why it happened so i could be sure it wouldn't happen again.

are you running solids?

 

Yep, solid lifters. The lifter were the old style hollow shell and one was worn completely through, it had a hole in the end of it! I was lucky.
There are a couple of ideas why it happened. First, this engine sat for many many years after being rebuilt and then having an issue with one of the heads which allowed coolant into the cylinder. I drained all fluids out of it and dried it out as best I could before storing it away with marvel mystery oil in the cylinders but the place I had it stored before building my garage was damp. One theory is flash or surface rust on the cam lobes from storage started the deterioration of the cam and lifters.
The second thought was using oil without zinc. Comp Cams believes this is the reason and I tend to think that's probably it too. They supplied a break-in oil with zinc with the new cam and said I need to use racing oil with zinc along with an extra additive when I change the oil.

 

wow, good info! wes

 

what's your idle speed? i really want to run a big solid roller cam in mine but have had concerns about the wear and tear. i have read numerous times that the key to making a big solid rollers survive on the street is to keep the idle speed up (1200-1500). apparently the solids need the additional oil splashing that occurs with elevated engine RPM's.

that was information that i found concerning solid roller cams. i'm not sure if the same is true for the solid flat tappets.

 

I don't know if that's true or not either. Right now my idle speed is around 10K I think but it seems a little fast to me, it used to idle lower.
I would check with the cam mfg'r and get thier recommendations.

 

FWIW I have a solid roller in my 347. Idles at 800 rpm. No wear problems I am aware of.

I have had two motors built in the last 3 years and put rollers in both of them. Did not want to take the chance on wiping a cam.

I assume that the motor was disassembled and cleaned out?

 

Not completely disassembled but it was cleaned out. I sure hope nothing was left in there. I'll be changing oil again before too long.

 

Right now my idle speed is around 10K I think but it seems a little fast to me, it used to idle lower.

wow, 10k idle. that is a hot motor!

here is just one example of someone else mentioning solid rollers and idle speed. sorry for a link to a non ford site (i just did a quick search)...

Solids and Idle

 

Did he just use a dial indicator on each valve and check for ones that are different?

 

what's your idle speed? i really want to run a big solid roller cam in mine but have had concerns about the wear and tear. i have read numerous times that the key to making a big solid rollers survive on the street is to keep the idle speed up (1200-1500). apparently the solids need the additional oil splashing that occurs with elevated engine RPM's.

that was information that i found concerning solid roller cams. i'm not sure if the same is true for the solid flat tappets.

I don't think those of us running solid roller lifters have to worry about this issue.

 

Mine is a solid flat tappet, not roller.

 

Did he just use a dial indicator on each valve and check for ones that are different?

Do you mean to diagnose the problem? He knew without looking that the issue was a wiped cam just by my description. He was right too!

 

I don't think those of us running solid roller lifters have to worry about this issue.

any reason why? i'm just curious, like i said i really want to run a roller, but i have heard so many stories about lobes getting worn, that i'm a little hesitant.

 

With a solid roller you will just have to make sure that your valve lash is set correctly so there is not too much slop in the valvetrain; that will excellerate wear. Lubrication with a roller is obviously still important but not as important as with a flat tappet cam. There are plenty of roller cams out there, solid and hydraulic, that idle well below 1200 rpms and live long healthy lives.

 

I don't think those of us running solid roller lifters have to worry about this issue.

any reason why? i'm just curious, like i said i really want to run a roller, but i have heard so many stories about lobes getting worn, that i'm a little hesitant.

Well, you have a wheel rolling across the top of the lobe versus a flat tappet sliding across the top of the lobe. Which do you think will have less resistance and wear? Another advantage of roller cams is that you can have lobes with faster ramps than a flat tappet lifter can handle. Down side to roller cams are they require more complex hardware and cost.

 

Did he just use a dial indicator on each valve and check for ones that are different?

Do you mean to diagnose the problem? He knew without looking that the issue was a wiped cam just by my description. He was right too!

What cam did you end up using, Doug?

I used a comp hydraulic 1st go around. Two lifters were not spinning and had slight grooves, but cam lobes were fine. The cam was "not happy" in that engine. We changed to a 270S (solid), and I really like this cam.

I can imagine that our 1st cam could fail over time, if left in the engine.

 

We also used comp cam 270S, flat tappet cam, in the 427 sideoiler in our 67 GT 500.

 

I don't think those of us running solid roller lifters have to worry about this issue.

any reason why? i'm just curious, like i said i really want to run a roller, but i have heard so many stories about lobes getting worn, that i'm a little hesitant.

Well, you have a wheel rolling across the top of the lobe versus a flat tappet sliding across the top of the lobe. Which do you think will have less resistance and wear? Another advantage of roller cams is that you can have lobes with faster ramps than a flat tappet lifter can handle. Down side to roller cams are they require more complex hardware and cost.

I believe the problem with the solid roller lifters is making sure the axle and needle bearings are lubed not the friction of the lifter wheel against the camshaft itself..Alot of the new lifters have a direct oiling passage to this area now to prevent problems..This was a brand new feature when I bought my solid roller comp cam lifters a couple of years ago..