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pdubbb1

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey, can anyone recommend a good driveshaft shop.
I need a 58 & 5/8th inch shaft to mate to a 1330 series yoke and a 6r80 transmission with a factory flange. I prefer a 3 inch diameter shaft that can handle about 8000 rpm.

been have a hard time trying to find a shop that is reasonable priced to build this.

can anyone recommend a place?
 
This is a situation that you open up your local yellow pages...and find a drivehsaft shop. This is common stuff that any local driveshaft does at a reasonable price. Its only when you try to get work done by a big guy(IE driveshaft shop) that prices get out of hand. Last time I went down to the junkyard...pulled an aluminum aerostar driveshaft(yoke is suitable for T5 and C4 splined things if I remember correctly) and had my local driveshaft(Clinards here in Nashville) shop shorten it with a conversion u-joint and flange suitable for a Ford 8.8 rear. I was out the door for about $200 including the cost of the driveshaft. Of course...that was 10+ years ago...I would expect that to be about $300 or so now
 
This is a situation that you open up your local yellow pages...and find a drivehsaft shop. This is common stuff that any local driveshaft does at a reasonable price. Its only when you try to get work done by a big guy(IE driveshaft shop) that prices get out of hand. Last time I went down to the junkyard...pulled an aluminum aerostar driveshaft(yoke is suitable for T5 and C4 splined things if I remember correctly) and had my local driveshaft(Clinards here in Nashville) shop shorten it with a conversion u-joint and flange suitable for a Ford 8.8 rear. I was out the door for about $200 including the cost of the driveshaft. Of course...that was 10+ years ago...I would expect that to be about $300 or so now
Given that the SoT is $350 for a new aluminum driveshaft it's questionable if trying to find a junkyard, pull yourself and then still have it shorted and balanced is worth it.
 
Depending on what you want/need local could be the best bang for the buck. If you are looking for high HP/TQ application and may want someone more specialized.
My 1000HP rated aluminum came from these guys. Recommended by MDL / Modern DriveLine.

Image
 
Given that the SoT is $350 for a new aluminum driveshaft it's questionable if trying to find a junkyard, pull yourself and then still have it shorted and balanced is worth it.
That would depend. For instance I can't use a SoT driveshaft because my transmission does not have a slip-yoke, only a flange, so any driveshaft I get made will require the slip yoke in-shaft. Of course I doubt I can even find an aluminum base to start with that fits my parameters(though maybe some late-model Ford has what I need). I would likely have to get it built from scratch....which would definitely be cheaper with a local shop.
 
That would depend. For instance I can't use a SoT driveshaft because my transmission does not have a slip-yoke, only a flange, so any driveshaft I get made will require the slip yoke in-shaft. Of course I doubt I can even find an aluminum base to start with that fits my parameters(though maybe some late-model Ford has what I need). I would likely have to get it built from scratch....which would definitely be cheaper with a local shop.
Mine came without the yoke. You specify the u-joint size that works with your yoke and install it when you receive your driveshaft. Should work fine, unless I’m not understanding your application.
 
Mine came without the yoke. You specify the u-joint size that works with your yoke and install it when you receive your driveshaft. Should work fine, unless I’m not understanding your application.
I have a 8"(soon to be 9") rear end...and a MT82 trans...which means that my driveshaft needs to have a built-in slip yoke like this(under the boot):

Image


Makes it pricier than your normal aluminum driveshaft....most online retailers charge $900+ for stock application replacement in aluminum(though usually they are converting from a two piece to a one piece at the same time)
 
I have a 8"(soon to be 9") rear end...and a MT82 trans...which means that my driveshaft needs to have a built-in slip yoke like this(under the boot):

Image


Makes it pricier than your normal aluminum driveshaft....most online retailers charge $900+ for stock application replacement in aluminum(though usually they are converting from a two piece to a one piece at the same time)
Thanks for the clarification.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
This is a situation that you open up your local yellow pages...and find a drivehsaft shop. This is common stuff that any local driveshaft does at a reasonable price. Its only when you try to get work done by a big guy(IE driveshaft shop) that prices get out of hand. Last time I went down to the junkyard...pulled an aluminum aerostar driveshaft(yoke is suitable for T5 and C4 splined things if I remember correctly) and had my local driveshaft(Clinards here in Nashville) shop shorten it with a conversion u-joint and flange suitable for a Ford 8.8 rear. I was out the door for about $200 including the cost of the driveshaft. Of course...that was 10+ years ago...I would expect that to be about $300 or so now
I have a 8"(soon to be 9") rear end...and a MT82 trans...which means that my driveshaft needs to have a built-in slip yoke like this(under the boot):

Image


Makes it pricier than your normal aluminum driveshaft....most online retailers charge $900+ for stock application replacement in aluminum(though usually they are converting from a two piece to a one piece at the same time)
this is something along the lines of what i need. I contacted shaun from street or track and he said they dont build nothing special. i need a 1330 series yoke on one end and a slip yoke on other with this flange


on the other. Not so sure whats so hard about it.

Also want it be able to handle about 800 hp's because I might install turbo in future
 
Given that the SoT is $350 for a new aluminum driveshaft it's questionable if trying to find a junkyard, pull yourself and then still have it shorted and balanced is worth it.
Seriously ? holy hell thats a deal. i know who im calling lol
 
Mark Williams, Strange Engineering, Denny's Driveshaft
All very good products. I have a Dennys what they call nitrous one in my drag car and I beat the crap out of it for years.

When I made a transmission change I needed it slightly shorter and a different transmission yoke and they were very reasonable with modifying mine and still has their guarantee not to twist.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
All very good products. I have a Dennys what they call nitrous one in my drag car and I beat the crap out of it for years.

When I made a transmission change I needed it slightly shorter and a different transmission yoke and they were very reasonable with modifying mine and still has their guarantee not to twist.
i think i will give dennys a try.
 
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