Is there a dent in the frame rail or is it out of alignment? If it's out of alignment you may want to take it to a body shop and have them put the car in a rack and pull it straight.

 

There is no kink in the rail. The logistics of taking it to a frame shop would be hard for me once it is all torn down and engine out. I'm a full time father, husband and worker. I work on the car when the wife is happy and my son is asleep, two hours at a time. I could take it to a frame shop but just think its almost too easy to do. The frame rail is bent at an even rate. Its very obvious when looking straight at the car.

 

The sledgehammer solution might be logistically easy for you, but is one that can easily have unintended consequences . Don't do it.

Just do nothing until the time and finances are right to take it to frame straightening shop.

Z

 

A 20# sledge is for breaking things and that might be what you get if you use it. I would work out a way to get to a frame shop and get it done right. Once you've accomplished this you know everything that follows is good.

 

Thank you guys for your help! 20 lbs not the best idea just looking for the cheap. So I called a coupe of places here locally and only found one place "Stan Auto Body" that would even talk about it straightening a 68 mustang. They work on classic when they come in but he wasn't sure if he had the specs for the frame for his system. $250 to hook the car then $50 and hour. Not sure if this is too high? The price is not an issue just don't like getting ripped off I went to tech school and been a mechanic for 13 years. I got out of it because I couldn't stomach the things i saw

 

You can Google the measurements. If you feel comfortable doing it, chain the frame to the floor and use a hydraulic jack to tweak the rail. ie. if you need to bend it up, chain it at the place you want it to bend and jack it from the front. Spread the load out at the jacking point. If you need to bend it down, chain it at the front and jack at the bending point.

 

Scuse...how does a person chain to the floor? You mean drilling and using anchors?

 

If you are already talking about replacing both aprons and the shock tower, why not just buy the complete side pieces that include new frame rails, aprons, and tower. Then you can ensure all the geometry is correct and there are no hidden cracks or other damage.

 

Nice to here from a Vermonter, where the curbs are made of granite. Where I live the manhole covers hold back the sewer from flowing in the rivers full of protected salmon and you get fined for car washing water going down the storm water drains.
Finding a way to chain it to the floor is a great idea, got me thinking about the neighbors tractor. But It would need to be chained in two areas for bending down, one under the jack stand so the torque box won't transfer the stress and then in the front to bring it down. The bent is a right in front of the torque box

As far as replacing the one frame rail that has been what I've been thinking about. Its been done before. I saw the whole kit & caboodle for double the price of the individual pieces. I read lots of threads about guys replacing frame rails due to rust but not from bent.

 

Are there signs of an accident? Where was it built? I ask because I had a 68 coupe with the front crossmember was higher on the driver side about a quarter inch.

 

New Jersey code car I added pictures. Yes there are signs of a accident. Bent UCA, Fender and Hood are off of another mustang (GREEN), out cowl on driver side smashed. Found frame slight kink showing my scale and finger. I check the car in the middle of the garage before I moved it over. I set the jack stands perfect and got the same measurement difference in the front to be sure.

 

Just an update for those who read this who may have this problem. I took it to a frame shop and pulled it straight no problem. The kink was almost gone. We used a probe and slide hammer to get the kink better. I felt and the body shop feel it is not an issue anymore. The drivers torque box was straight as well now. Will installed diy subconnectors and soild welded up the torque boxes on both sides. I'm replacing the front/rear aprons are being replaced. I worked over the shock towers and shock tower reinforcement soon as well. Nothing like freaking out in a open forum not know if the car you bought is worth fixing. Thank you for your guys help.

 

The only way to fix it right is to pull the old parts back into shape which pulls all the supporting components it is attached to back into shape as well. Then you can replace or repair what is dented or cracked. I got this info from a friend that works a frame machine.

 

Cool, any pictures?