Maybe /maybe not. I have OEM on mine and the fit of the driver side could use some work. Next time I have it off maybe I'll open up the guide holes for some more adjustability.
Are your fenders and extensions OEM, aftermarket metal, or glass?

 

Mostly, it looks to me like you need to do just a little adjustment to your fiberglass nose. The passenger side looks just a bit low to me.

On the driver side, your fender looks just a little to the outside and angled down too much looking at the top front line of the fender .

Where your doors are inside the line of the fenders which is around the outside curve, you can very carefully use a rubber or nylon mallet and tap those edges out some so that they line up with the outside line of the fender. I won't warranty this work though, LOL. I had a dent in the front lip of one of my doors and I managed to tap most of the dent back out with a nylon mallet and a variety of punches and even a flattened screw driver blade. Obviously, if you wack these things too much they will crack. If you decide to try wacking them, do it with the door on something that gives like a sand bag or I used an old worn out pair of blue jeans to cushion the wack. Final thought on wacking headlight doors, do a little wack at a time and test fit and then continue.

I have only fitted my headlight buckets to my nose so far and I had to do a bit more clearancing of the slits cut into the fiberglass. I had interference there and the slit not being right was throwing the fit of the headlight door to the fiberglass off. I have no idea what my fender fit is going to be because my fenders are not on the car.

It looks like I will also need to grind a bit off the top of the fiberglass piece around the middle top of the headlight doors. The edges of the doors are actually sitting on the fiberglass. I plan to wait on that until I can lay the fiberglass up on the car though.

 

Gawd! On my factory new stang they were near perfect, on my 68 they're (originals)close (within 1/16 all around). Those look embarrassing bad, for whomever sold them!

 

Your headlight buckets need to be raised up so h/l doors will line up with fenders! Wes

 

What fenders are they? Original Production, early Service Replacement (red), late Service Replacement (black), or reproduction?

 

Report fenders. I can grind a bit more off the fiberglass nose piece, but I’d wind up going all the way through in a couple spots.


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Report? You mean repro? I'm not surprised.

You need to carefully reshape the doors to fit better. I used to do it all the time with fender and quarter extensions. A plastic mallet works wonders. They aren't Austrian crystal, you know.

 

AutoRestoMod did a video on adjusting repro headlight doors to fit. This might help:
https://youtu.be/A9NSeybGI6U

 

Excellent video.

 

I've got a crate full of headlight doors- I typically end up grabbing the stack and trying all of them until I find the one that fits closest, then massage it to hopefully fit close. You'd be hard pressed to find a car with 'perfect' fit doors that someone hadn't spent a lot of time on. BTW- were you able to use the taillight buckets I sent? and the training pads?? lol! :grin2:

 

Spell check must have changed 'repro' to 'report'.

I will mess around with them more. The headlight buckets are part of the upper nose piece from MTF.

I think if I grind just a bit more of the fiberglass away from the headlight bucket portion of the nose, then some fit & fiddle with the headlight door could get me close enough. If I sand through in parts, then I can always add some glass back later.


Jay...I was able to use the tail-light housing...welded some machine screws to one missing the studs yesterday. I still have the pee-pee pads on my workbench and will be using them for messy jobs.

 

Just to see the difference, I installed the repop headlight buckets I had on the shelf to see how the doors fit over them.
They look a lot closer with no work done to tweak things.

I'll give the MTF piece another shot, but it's going to need a good amount of grinding the buckets to get it closer. At least I have the option of going back to the metal parts. I know fiberglass stuff needs tweaking and I really like the cleaner look of the MTF piece...but there comes a point where you just wonder if it's worth the extra effort.

The gap between the bucket and the door at the louver part is worse on this side. Would you use all metal filler on one piece to close the gap?

Metal parts....

vs MTF Fiberglass

 

The gap between the bucket and the door at the louver part is worse on this side. Would you use all metal filler on one piece to close the gap?

No, I would use a hammer and dolly to eliminate the gap.

 

To get my headlight doors tight to the MTF piece I had to grind the fiberglass slit in the places I marked with * below;



I think my doors are original.

Had to grind this one in the same places where MTF cut that slit because it wasn't quite wide enough by just a tiny bit. The shiney spot on my door down there is where I have tapped out the dent as far as I think is safe to do.

 

If you crack the pot metal, there is a product called "Muggy Weld" that can fix it. https://www.muggyweld.com/

 

I'm about ready to just give up on the MTF fiberglass piece. I continue to grind to try to get it to fit and it's just not working out. The headlight doors look better with the repro headlight buckets without any major tweaking.

How would you fill the gap between the bucket and door (near the louver)?
Is there a way to do this where it won't go falling apart after a while?

Or do I just try to hunt down an original one to see if it's any better.

 

You might try some Marglass or other fiberglass reinforced filler to close up the gap. The Marglass can be difficult to work with if it is cured, so it's best to shape it just after it first sets up. I use a cheese grater file to rough shape it.