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Maximum rubber......girl gets some new shoes

11K views 57 replies 19 participants last post by  dobrostang  
#1 ·
Finally got some new rims for my car. I have had the same rims the car came with when I bought it 8 years ago. I copied what Grabber70Mach has on his car and decided to go with the 17x8 front and 17x10.5 anthracite bullitt wheels from American Muscle. Tires are Sumitomo HTR Z 245/45/17 fronts and 315/35/17 rears. As with all of my threads, you can guarantee it'll be heavy on pics! Below are the pics of the wheels after first getting them out of the box.









and the poor worn out 14" Cragar SS rims with 205/70 Radial T/As





and here is the tiny 205 original rear tires next to the fatty 315. Now we're talkin!

 
#2 ·
Below are some pics of how the car is now, although it is very dirty since I'm just now getting it out of hibernation. Still gotta finish painting those darn rocker panels! The drivers side is finished, never made it to get the passenger done









 
#3 ·
and now for the install pics. I decided to pull the spindles and brakes and pretty them up a bit. I had a leaking brake hose, which trashed the paint all of that stuff. With larger wheels, it'd look like crap if I didn't give them a facelift. Still has rust on the rotors, but that'll disappear soon. I used POR15 high temp paint on the calipers and portions of the rotor and wheel spacer. The color is similar to the anthracite, so I won't have a bright polished wheel spacer sticking out like a sore thumb (if I hadn't painted it). I didn't go too crazy because I have plans to upgrade to the front and rear Cobra brakes, so this will do for now!



and a few pics of the front wheels installed. Probably could have gotten away with 3/4" spacers instead of 1".



 
#4 ·
Enough with the boring fronts, everybody knows 8" wide wheels fit there. Lets squeeze 10lbs of crap into a 5lb bag :) I started out putting some washers on the wheel studs (thanks for the tip Grabber!) and then installed the wheels. BTW, that is the same POR15 high temp paint on those rear drums and they have probably 30,000 miles on them. Totally impressed with that stuff!



And here is a pic of the quarter lip clearance. The second I put a string clamped to the lip and a nut on the other end. You can tell the wheels would just barely rub the lip once lowered, so I'll plan on rolling the lips. It'll tuck in nicely after a good rolling. The quarter lip is kind of jacked up thanks to a poor PO repair, hopefully I can roll it without screwing it up more





With 3/8" worth of washers, this is my clearance between the rear of the leaf spring and the tire. Pretty tight! What does everyone think, should I space it out a bit more? I don't have the tall sidewalls like those 14" ones I had, so I'm not sure what kind of sidewall deflection I'd see.



a little more clearance at the front of the leaf



no problem with the inner wheelwell clearance at the rear....



but the typical clearance issue in the front lower part of the inner wheelwell



nothing a BFH couldn't cure!!!



 
#5 ·
Here is a pic of the remaining wheel stud after the 3/8" of washers



Crap, gonna need new studs! Couldn't even get a single thread to catch on the nuts to hold the rim in place while I checked clearances.

So I have two dilemmas. Does everyone think the wheel is spaced out far enough from the leaf springs? I don't want to keep pushing it further out and have quarter lip issues. The other issue is the wheel stud length. I measured the exposed thread length from the face of the axle and got 1". I looked into the NPD catalog and it mentions 1 9/16" wheel studs for rear drums on my car. Looking into the Summit catalog, it seems all of the wheel studs they sell are 3" long. I have acorn type lug nuts that are not open ended, so what does everyone typically do? Do you cut the studs down to length, or do you think it won't be an issue? I'll have more pics of the installed wheels once I figure out what wheel studs and spacers to order for the rear.
 
#8 ·
Do you intend to replace the washers with a real spacer once you figure out a size? Great way to figure out what size to go with....
 
#10 ·
Clearance to springs

B, my guess is that you'll be okay. Keep us posted to how it goes, and what the backspace turns out to be....others who have tyhe same body, AND need new tires, will want to know. If the springs turn out to be close enough to rub, you can take a page from the TransAm racers in the late 60s and run narrower springs, at the inside of the mounts. gains you 3/4 of an inch of room. I think Evergreen is repopping the skinny racer springs. LSG
 
#12 ·
Thanks LSG. The front wheels have +30mm offset/5.72" backspace and the back wheels have +28mm offset/6.8" backspacing. Here is a link to the front and rear wheels:

Anthracite Bullitt Wheel 05-11 (17x8) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping

Anthracite Deep Dish Bullitt Wheel 94-04 (17x10.5) at AmericanMuscle - Free Shipping!

With the front 1" wheel spacers, I have a net backspace of 4.72" and have good clearance to the ball joint. With 3/8" wheel spacers on the back, I have a net backspace of 6.43".


Nick, no Watts or panhard. If there is some rubbing on turns I'll look into getting one. The Maier panhard looks pretty nice but its 3 bills. Might be able to get a Watts for damn near that! I'm always looking for a new project, so I may do some research into making my own :)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BAE-2000009/
 
#13 ·
I finally found a set of wheel studs that are long enough, but not the 3" bastads. I have closed end wheel studs and don't really feel like cutting 10 wheel studs to fit. Moser sells a set that is 1/2" longer. Moser Engineering 8250 - Moser Engineering Wheel Studs - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Can't really find what I'd call a reasonable pair of 3/8" wheel spacers, so I'll probably go with the Baer billet ones @ $60. I'm leery of the cast aluminum ones from Mr. Gasket. Baer Disc Brake Systems 2000009 - Baer Brakes Billet Aluminum Wheel Spacers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
#14 ·
I've laid hands on some those Mr.Gasket spacers at a swap meet. Passing on them I believe to be best. I wouldn't put them on anybody's car. I swear I believe you could torque down your lugs enough to shatter them like glass. Pay the billet money.
 
#15 ·
Yeah they look like crap even in online pictures, so that means they are likely worse in person. My concern is all of the bolt holes and cracking, as I know how weak that cast aluminum is! I'll update this thread once my wheel studs and spacers come in :)
 
#16 · (Edited)
I am running the same tires on my Cuda. It's lowered and running 315's on the rear and 275's up front. I dont know if I will be able to pull off 315's on the rear of my Mach. Buenig - you are going to need rear discs now you know.
 
#17 ·
Yeah I know! I'm leaning towards the 05-12 Mustang GT rear discs. They are 11.75" diameter rotors and are a bit cheaper for parts compared to the rear Cobra discs. MustangSteve sells the brackets for these. Gotta wait a little bit, the financial demands of a 7mo old girl restricts the car improvements unfortunately.

Hopefully these pics help you out Mike with your tire/wheel decisions. You can now see just how tight of a fit these 315s are. I'll be easing into the exit ramps to see what it takes to get some rubbing.

Wheel studs and spacers are ordered from Summit. Getting closer :)
 
#19 ·
Yeah I figured there would be some understeer since the rear tires will provide more traction than the front. I have a rear sway bar that will be installed once I get the rear suspension figured out. I doubt a rear sway bar will fully cure the understeer, but again this is a weekend cruiser and not a corner carver ;)
 
#22 ·
On the rear of my Cuda, although I needed no spacers, I had to run the long studs. Do most cut those off and use regular nuts or? You may not have that problem with the spacers, I thought they have long lug nuts for such applications?
 
#24 ·
Grabber70Mach and 70_Fastback, who both have bullitt rims, used the long 3" or 3.5" studs and just used open ended lug nuts. I however refuse to part with my closed end lug nuts! Package from Summit is due here tomorrow evening
 
#25 ·
Not dumb at all! Yes if the wheel had a bit less backspacing I would not have needed the spacers. The problem is the Bullitt rims are made for late model cars and they aren't custom backspaced rims, so you get what you get. As far as I know all bullitt 17x8 and 17x10.5 (intended as late model mustang upgrade rims) have the same backspacing. There is a person on ebay selling bullitt rims that fit our car (Chillininh has them) but they didn't have any wide enough for me ;)
 
#28 ·
Yeah the rear I'm happy with, as 3/8" really isn't much in terms of spacer. The fronts I wish they'd make them with more offset so that a 1" spacer isn't needed. The fronts do make the rear wheels lips appear larger though.

If you get by with small spacers you shouldn't have a problem behind that 440, assuming you are using quality wheel studs.
 
#29 ·
loved those rims on my 2000 Mustang but those Sumitomos are terrible for traction of course that was with 708 rear wheel horsepower. Actually they were terrible at stock power too.

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