Sounds like you have a good game plan. I like the Powerjection III for the same reasons you mentioned. I am interested in hearing how you like it once you get it running.
P.S. don't short change yourself, you sound like one step up from a novice to me!

 

Not to dampen what seems like a small detail but: check carefully "over think" on the fuel level sender. Many of the non original are junk.

Slim

 

Are they really? I hadn't heard anything about that. Is there a certain one I should get that's high quality?

 

Repo senders have been discussed several times as being crummy. My personal experience is when we cleaned out the tank (off the car), and the lines I bought a repo sender from MU...nothing special. I tightened the fitting and took extra with the gasket when installing.

It doesn't leak, the gauge reads close on the bottom end. I keep it close to empty so I don't end up with stale gas in the tank.


Slim

 

Post fail!! I read the title and expected to see an installed system! LOL!!

On #3, can you find a water neck/thermostat housing with a threaded port for some of the later model 302's with temp controlled vacuum switch?
Would save a lot of work pulling intake.

Keep us posted on how it goes. I'm planning on the FAST system, but looked at yours too.
And for the same reasons. It looks like a carb! But did get some negative vibes on forums due to being made off shore, and Professional Products parts falures on their line of distributors. Again, internet rumor so it must be true.

 

Looking forward to following this...I have been toying with the idea of FI, but can't decide whether to or not, then if so which unit.

 

Hey, it says 'install thread', not 'install post'

Slim, guess I've missed those threads. Thanks for the heads up, I'll do a bit more research before just haphazardly ordering one now.

Bah, the worst part about this install is the pump, I'm convinced. I'll have the whole dang thing installed and STILL be trying to figure out which pump to go with :lol: I have only my own indecisiveness to blame by now though, as 3 external pumps and 1 internal pump have been suggested to me.

On the plus side... the system actually just came a few minutes ago, so I went ahead and opened it up and took pictures! So, at least we can say I've made progress I went from no kit to... having the kit, I guess. Here they are:

[Passenger side view]

[Driver's side view]

[Upside down (always wondered what it looks like on the bottom)]

[Gauge already plumbed in]

[Temp sending unit]

[O2 sensor (I think)]

[Handy dandy O2 sensor installation kit (in case you don't feel like welding a bung onto your headers, you can drill a hole and use this instead)]

[Fuel pump - looks nice, but it's getting sold!]

Also included was a fuel filter, some wiring for hooking a laptop up to the unit, a CD containing the software needed to set up and tweak things, a very nice instruction booklet, and gaskets. Didn't bother to take a pic of all of those though since everyone has seen what those look like before

At any rate, I'm actually really pleased with it. Some people have reported that it looks and feels 'cheap', but that is not the case with this unit. It may be that the polished unit (what I got) is higher quality than the satin unit. Good thing it was on sale for less than the satin unit! Really excited about this

 

Please keep us posted on your project. I would like to do the same to my 76 mustangII after i do the T-5 swap. The only difference is that i will have a fuel cell in my car. Im trying to get her ready to do a Hot Rod Powertour someday.

 

You are too funny! I love your posts and your trials with Jane! Good luck with your new adventure.

 

Subscribed.
Looks sweet! Thanks for throwin the pics up! Keep us posted...

 

You gotta love a young lady, who is excited to have a carberator on the kitchen table!
I've gotten flack for that move!

Looking forward to a picture of Jane smoking the tires!

Kelly, one question; Did this kit come with an inertia-switch that cuts power to the pump, in the event of a (God forbid) accident?

Ditto to what another poster said...you're way above "novice".
Best of Luck,
Marc

 

Ditto to what another poster said...you're way above "novice".

It's worth repeating: you're light years away from the average novice, and to hazard a guess, probably more knowledgeable than a lot of shadetree mechanics. Most people wouldn't even know what to call half of the stuff in that fuel injection kit.

 

You have a good game plan, good luck! Email if you need help with anything

 

No, the kit doesn't come with an inertia switch, but I had plans to go to a junkyard to pull one. However, I was just reading through the instructions another time around and saw this:

Note: When you turn the key to the “on” position, you will hear the fuel pump come on for a few seconds and
then shut off. This is normal . The EMS needs to receive a distributor reference signal when turning to maintain
power to the fuel pump. This is a safety feature built into the system in case the vehicle is in an accident and the
engine stops; power is shut off to the fuel system.

Sounds like that acts like an oil pressure switch? In which case, I guess an inertia switch is still needed to cut the pump if the engine is still running in the event of an accident. I'll be grabbing one of those - trick is to find one that's not TOO sensitive, since I tend to drive across grass and bumpy roads. Have heard stories about people who've had their fuel cut off by that switch when driving across roads undergoing construction! :lol:

I think that Ozarks has convinced me to swap to an in-tank pump like the type that Tanks Inc. makes. Even though it puts fuel lines in the trunk, he seemed to have a good game plan for isolating them and the benefits just outweigh the negatives. Hurray for making more work for myself!

 

No, the kit doesn't come with an inertia switch, but I had plans to go to a junkyard to pull one.

While most any inertia switch will work provided it's mounted correctly, I will warn you newer Fords use a new design switch that can be identified by a rubber covering over the reset button. Do not use one of these as they are very unreliable compared to Ford's older design switch.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Any specific year range I should be looking for?

 

I'm not sure of the exact year the new design switch 1st appeared but I would say if you look on 2004 and prior you should be OK.

 

How's the install coming along?

 

I have read up on the powerjection III as well and this will be interesting. I would suggest a late 90's early 2000's Taurus as they are plentiful and the inertia switches were reliable. Find one with a dry trunk and steal the switch.

 

Schnorr, install is at a standstill for now since Jane is now at bodywork / paint. Scheduled to start tearing things down in a few weeks, since my body guy is trying to finish painting his wife's Jag Unfortunately, it's off to school with me, so there won't be much going on for a couple of months.

I've been reading and rereading the installation instructions, and have realized it doesn't say where the PCV valve hose should be hooked up. So, I need to figure that out probably. I'm also working on figuring out how to run a fuel line up the passenger side (for the return line). Wondering if I should also rebend the current fuel line to go up the passenger side for the feed, since the inlet is on the passenger side.

I've decided to go with the Tanks, Inc. setup. In-tank top-mounted Walbro pump and new gas tank. Not sure if I should get a 16-gallon or a 20-gallon. Tanks, Inc. sells a 16-gallon one with a spot for the top-mounted sending unit, with the bottom sending unit deleted. Or, I could get my own 20-gallon tank and close up the stock sending unit hole and drill 2 new holes (one for sending unit, one for pump) in the top, or I could get the 20 gallon tank and modify the sending unit area and only drill one hole in the top for the pump. I'm trying to go with the one that leaves the least room for error :lol:

The bad parts about that setup are that there are fuel lines in the trunk. The good part is that that can easily be remedied by sticking a plate of steel across the trunk pans! And since the pump mount has a vent on it, I won't be needing to screw around with my filler neck. Furthermore, the pony will be less prone to fuel starvation and vapor lock, and the pump will be quieter. Less fittings to leak as well.

I've been having trouble finding a place to stick the additional bung for the EFI's water temp sender. It was suggested to me that I just pull the plug out of the top of my thermostat housing and insert it there, but the coolant temperature there will fluctuate and possibly change the way the car runs accordingly. So maybe I'll stick the EFI temp sender in the old temp sender hole, and put the temp sender that runs the dash gauge in the thermostat housing? The Offy intake doesn't have a lot of space for us to weld a new bung on.

Thanks for the suggestion FRH, a Taurus would be a lot easier to find than a Mustang I bet. Now that Jane's in paint, I don't know what to do with myself. I'm so used to popping out to the shop to curse at a part that's not installing quite right that now I'm looking for other stuff to yell at in her place :lol: Hopefully I can occupy some of my spare time on the weekends by wallowing around in junkyards looking for parts.

 

Hi Kelly,

For your temp sender problem, can you use a GM 3-wire sender in place of both the OEM and the Powerjection sensor?

 

Hmm! I did not know that such an animal existed! If I could figure out how to wire that, that would be awesome. The PIII system comes with its own plug for the sender though, which appears to be a 2-wire. Might not be compatible... not sure, wiring of that nature is not my strong point. I can connect point A to point B, and that's about it

 

There has to be a place you can weld a bung into your manifold, don't use the thermostat housing. The gauge wont read correctly until the thermostat opens, not that it would be critical, but its way low on style points.

The three wire sounds cool, but the resistance would need to match the gauge requirements and the ECM requirements, you might get lucky, but I doubt it.

Another option is to find another intake with a water port crossover in the rear. SBF intakes are cheap, so if you sold yours to offset the cost, it could be cheaper than having yours welded.

Something like this Edelbrock Performer has the ability to put one of the senders in the rear.

 

Wiring the 3-wire GM sender shouldn't be too much of a problem. You'd use a 3-wire GM plug and splice the correct 2 wires to your EFI and the remaining one to your gauge.

Here's an example of the availability of the coolant sensor pigtail: http://www.repairconnector.com/prod...com/products.php?product=-3-Wire-Crankshaft-{47}-Coolant-Temp-Sensor-Connector-

The trick would be finding out if the GM resistance curve is compatible with your Powerjection III - their tech people would probably know in an instant.

 

Yeah, maybe I'll give them a call sometime this week. It seems somewhat unlikely that a modern temp sensor would send the right info to a vintage gauge, but might as well give it a shot, right? I looked up the part number on the existing temp sender that came with the kit, and it's comparable to many GM parts, so that's encouraging at least.

Well, having mine welded is going to cost me 20 bucks :lol: I brought the kit out to show my body guy when I took Jane over yesterday, and he was VERY interested. Told me not to leave the kit with him because it'd end up on one of his cars. I told him that if he'd help me get everything right with the preliminary stuff, I'd bring her back to him once I finished the install so he could take a look at it. His only concern was that the throttle body might be too much for my stocker 289, but that might've been him pulling my leg since he always makes fun of me for my 'wimpy' engine

At any rate, getting a new intake is possible but I'd rather that be a last resort. Not keen on getting rid of something that works so well for the pony, you know? If the 3-wire thing doesn't work out, we might be able to cram the bung in right next to the current water temp sender, but it'll be a tight fit with the distributor being right there.

 

I'm watching this.

 

Kelly,
Would it be possible to use a brass "T" to fit two sensors to one manifold hole?...or is there not enough room?
McMaster-Carr

...or it's understandable that you wouldn't like the look.
Keep us informed.

 

I did think about it, yes, but my concern was that the sensors then wouldn't be accurate because they wouldn't be directly inserted into the water jacket. We thought about putting a tee into the heater hose as well, but I think we'd run into the same problems with fluctuations as putting it on the other side of the thermostat.