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Small block Ford vs. FE big block

12K views 105 replies 40 participants last post by  svtfrank  
#1 ·
Hello 👋 I'm new here. I am looking for resources to help me figure out what engine I will put in my car. I have a 1967 Coupe and it needs everything, it's a blank canvas. I want a hot rod.

I originally was going to buy a crate engine from Blueprint Engines. I like the 347 they offer. However, big blocks have always fascinated me and I know one will fit. I found a 390 for a fair price out of a 66 T-bird.

Regardless of engine I'm planning on putting in a C6 from TCI. I also live in Florida so I want to add AC. I want a hot rod, but most of my driving with this car will be highway. So I'd say street/strip type build. I'd like to have 400-450 hp at the crank.

So my questions are as follows: will I be able to fit an AC system in the car with the FE motor? What is the hood clearance with an FE motor? I'd like to keep my stock hood. And about what would the cost be for a rebuild on a 390 that has performance upgrades? Is there anything quirky on an FE engine I need to be mindful of when looking at motors I'm planning on rebuilding?
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#2 ·
Welcome to VMF !!
Nice ride! The 390 was a factory option in the 67-69 Mustang but the cylinder head and exhaust manifolds are a bit different than the T-Bird and truck engines if I read correctly so exhaust can be tricky. AC was also a factory option so that's do-able with an OE or aftermarket system.
 
#4 ·
Welcome to the forum. My thoughts are why not just build a small block stroker and save yourself some weight off the front end and better handling. I guess it depends how deep your pockets are. I really don't see any advantage for building a big block unless it's just what you want. If you get a Dart or other aftermarket block, you can build upwards of 460 Ci. The sky is the limit, well, that and money.
Be aware that if you start putting some serious HP in these cars and get any good traction, you will have to beef up the body and maybe the drivetrain to handle it. It's a deep hole, then you need to think about cooling systems, brakes, etc.
 
#5 ·
Hello 👋 I'm new here. I am looking for resources to help me figure out what engine I will put in my car. I have a 1967 Coupe and it needs everything, it's a blank canvas. I want a hot rod.

I originally was going to buy a crate engine from Blueprint Engines. I like the 347 they offer. However, big blocks have always fascinated me and I know one will fit. I found a 390 for a fair price out of a 66 T-bird.

Regardless of engine I'm planning on putting in a C6 from TCI. I also live in Florida so I want to add AC. I want a hot rod, but most of my driving with this car will be highway. So I'd say street/strip type build. I'd like to have 400-450 hp at the crank.

So my questions are as follows: will I be able to fit an AC system in the car with the FE motor? What is the hood clearance with an FE motor? I'd like to keep my stock hood. And about what would the cost be for a rebuild on a 390 that has performance upgrades? Is there anything quirky on an FE engine I need to be mindful of when looking at motors I'm planning on rebuilding? View attachment 934653 View attachment 934653
Now you did it!!
 
#9 ·
I have owned a big block Mustang for 56 years (68.5 Cobra Jet). The FE’s are heavy and without PS they are a bear to turn at low speed. Spark plugs are difficult to remove and replace, they are old technology and get terrible gas millage. If I were to build a Mustang for street use, I would be thinking about a EFI Windsor with a 4r70w transmission. With all the options available for the later model engines finding the horsepower you want should not be a problem.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Welcome. If you love and FE then get it but if not from mustang or Fairlane then you'll need correct heads & exhaust manifolds for starters.
If you want mostly some strip /racing, as said by others, get the 347 stroker, or a 351. Can pick a 351W or 351C. One known for low end torque, other high end torque. Not my area of expertise! But have a friend with 67 351C has loved it for 25 plus years.
Smaller engine block stuff gotta be cheaper, easier to find. I'd guess can be best of both worlds.

I have a 67 390 GT vert 4 spd with it's orig engine. Since it's a rather rare factory combo, had to keep it that way.
Do lots or research, see diff combo's at car shows. And great feedback here too!!
I'll attached couple info sheets on oem heads (could also go aftermarket Edlebrock heads) & correct exhaust maniflods for mustangs to clear steering box.

An FE engine stock very heavy.
To help lighten it up, when rebuilding it, I switch to Ford tri-power setup (an that Ford intake is aluminum) and also upgraded to Edlebrock aluminum heads - between the two big weight loss. Not great but much better, added power steering, pretty easy to drive local.

FYI FE little harder to change plugs but using 3/8" swivels and extension not bad, plus use platium plugs, last longer.
Good luck.
 

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#11 ·
The big blocks are nice for straight line performance, their allure fades for me when they corner. They plow when cornering worse than a John Deere tractor. The heavy front end on a small block is much more pronounced on the big block. This creates an understeer effect. In other words, basically the car wants to keep going straight instead of making the turn.

For me, this is a deal killer, others don’t seem to mind the handling anomalies.

You can get a small block in almost any displacement, I would suggest trying the stroked 331 or 347 first and drive that for a year. If you want more power, then the 351’s are available in stock or stroked displacements, and don’t have the fitment headaches found in the big block FE series.

just my opinions.

Z
 
#14 ·
I have a bit of an affinity for the FE. But I would never put one in a mustang. If that is what you want it is of course your choice. None of the stuff we do with cars is actually rational. Headers are available. The common aftermarket heads come with both exhaust bolt patterns so no worries about fitment.
If you want the feel of big block cubes then get a 408 stroker built from a 351.
A 302 based engine seems like the wrong direction since you are weighting the decision against a big block. Stroked 351 gives you both. Small. Light weight. Relatively inexpensive. And big cubes.
 
#18 ·
You won’t rebuild that Tbird motor for the same price as a small block…FE stands for FREAKIN EXPENSIVE. If you need a reality check, just price the factory 428 exhaust manifolds vs a pair of FPA 428 HEADERS vs the same small block manifolds/ headers. Same for intakes…and there are many more parts you will need to get that into your mustang…been there and still doing it again…
 
#19 ·
I have a 428 in my Shelby

Bear to work on

Neat, uber cool, get the stares and OOOOHHHHH with the opened hood

Bear to work on, pig to drive.

Drives like a drunken barge.

Bear to work on

It was great in it's day, but I would go with a SB stroker if working from a blank canvas.

Bear to work on.
 
#20 ·
Hello 👋 I'm new here. I am looking for resources to help me figure out what engine I will put in my car. I have a 1967 Coupe and it needs everything, it's a blank canvas. I want a hot rod.

I originally was going to buy a crate engine from Blueprint Engines. I like the 347 they offer. However, big blocks have always fascinated me and I know one will fit. I found a 390 for a fair price out of a 66 T-bird.

Regardless of engine I'm planning on putting in a C6 from TCI. I also live in Florida so I want to add AC. I want a hot rod, but most of my driving with this car will be highway. So I'd say street/strip type build. I'd like to have 400-450 hp at the crank.

So my questions are as follows: will I be able to fit an AC system in the car with the FE motor? What is the hood clearance with an FE motor? I'd like to keep my stock hood. And about what would the cost be for a rebuild on a 390 that has performance upgrades? Is there anything quirky on an FE engine I need to be mindful of when looking at motors I'm planning on rebuilding?
So, here's my thoughts.....

1. What did the car have for a drivetrain, originally? If it was a six-cylinder then it truly IS a blank canvas as you'll need to change the rear end, brakes, fuel line, springs, engine mount brackets, throttle linkage, wiring harnesses, etc. If it was a 289, then you can keep the rear end and brakes, engine mount brackets, wiring, throttle linkage, springs, etc., if you replace it with another small-block, even if you choose a stroker or 351C or W.

2. Since the '67 Mustang/GT-500 came with an FE (390/428) originally, there are no issues putting one in other than cost, as the FE stuff costs more than the SBF stuff and, yes, the FE's came with air conditioning, too. If you're planning on BUILDING an FE, including replacing the pistons, etc., then also consider a '70's truck 360... they made them through '76 which is a block with a 390's bore and a 352's internals. What needs to be considered with using the 360 is the connecting rods, which are longer than a 390's (and just a tad weaker) requiring a truck 390 piston to make decent compression. Is there anything "quirky" about the FE? Other than restricting top end oiling to direct more oil to the bottom end I can't think of anything.

3. I'd also rethink the transmission choice in favor of a "built" 4R70W. You'll like the deeper gearset and the overdrive 4th gear on the highway.
 
#22 ·
There's no avantages about having an bigblock in a Mustang in this day and age, except the historic based coolness of an big block. An small block based engine can give you all the displacement and power you will ever need and make the car faster and better handling. The big block also put additional weight where it's least wanted if you are looking for rear tire traction to have some traffic light fun. The weight on the front will only help for making more smoke.

I have earlier linked to an Youtube video with aussie built street driven Windsor based engine making 2800hp on the dyno and running 6s on the strip. It's nowadays fairly easy to make more power than you ever wiil be able to use on a public road.
 
#23 ·
I love the FE engine. It's what I learned on. Have one in my Mustang. Nothing really compares to popping the hood and seeing that thing wedged in there. (there are exceptions) However, if I bought a Mustang that didn't originally have one and didn't have the pieces required, I would put a Windsor based stroker in it.......I'd lean towards one of the Ford Racing offerings, although they are kinda pricey.....
 
#25 ·
There is passion and there is practicality. You must think hard and decide which is more important to you. Obviously, everyone on this forum has a high passion factor. Otherwise, we would all be driving a Toyota Camry. But does that passion absolutely demand a big block? Think hard.

Personally, I think it's really cool to build a classic car that looks great, runs great and is ready to drive most of the time. Any Ford V8 is going to give you that plus more power than you really need. (In inline six has plenty of power. Just not more than you need.) A big block classic car will use a lot more gas, which probably isn't a big deal, but it will also be harder to work in in a Mustang and it will riquire a much larger budget.

A 390 really isn't all that impressive in stock form. (Sorry, 390 guys, but that's my take.) The Bullit Mustangs had some mods to include shaved heads and very high compression. And consider those cars were roasting only one wheel at a time.

For the fun factor, nothing beats a manual trans. I also like to wind up my engine and bang gears. So, for me, I'm having more fun with a small block and a 4-speed than a big block and an automatic. For a bit more practicality, I went with a 5 speed manual. It was added expense, but I think those dollars were well spent.

Thus, I would strongly suggest building a 351W for your Mustang. Although that engine wasn't a factory option for your car, it's still a very easy install. It will fit much better than an FE and it will be WAY easier to work on. It will also be WAY less expensive than a proper built FE. You don't even need to stroke it. With the right compression, cam and aluminum heads, a 351W can easily get you to 400 horsepower. If you stroke it, the cost will be much higher, but you'll get gobs of stump-pulling torque to boot. Then again, a high-winding 302 is still a lot of fun in a street car and can use factory parts everywhere.

That's my take.
 
#27 ·
Not a 390 fan, I’ll say that right off the bat.
It’s just not that impressive a setup in stock form and even modded it’s just so so. There were a couple of guys that had 390 GTAs (hardtop and fastback) when I was in high school. The sedan had an Kenz & Leslie Racing 390 in it with a 3-2 for an intake. Expensive, in a word. The big rivalry was with a 396 Chevelle and the highly anticipated high school drags was the venue after a year of trash-talk by both drivers. It was a blood bath and a complete embarrassment for the Ford.
And at JBA, years later, lots of “votes of non-confidence” when we were giving tech advice to folks interested in 390s.
The weight of those dudes, for such lackluster performance, also makes for a Mustang that doesn’t want to turn or stop.
 
#28 · (Edited)
It’s just not that impressive a setup in stock form and even modded it’s just so so.
There's no way around that the FE was designed in the mid 50s, early in modern US V8s history. An age with an rapid pace between the manufacturers for bigger, more powerful engines. Like Fords Y-block only lasted a few years before it was outdated and behind the game.
 
#29 ·
I could totally understand not wanting a manual transmission in Florida with the amount of traffic in some places, but you’ll absolutely be shooting yourself in the foot to build up an engine like that and then put a three speed automatic (with no overdrive) in it. You’ll hate the shift points.
 
#34 ·
How about this. BIG big block power in an 8.2 deck small block built by a former pro stock champion.

363 pump gas 595 HP