Let me know if this thread helps you any, in particular the first CAD picture showing bolt spacing. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/612019-custom-motor-mount-build.html

 

This is not exactly what I am looking for. I am looking for the spacing for the block boss on one side of the engine to the block boss on the other side, measuring through the engine.

 

if the engine is on a stand and level use a plumb bob and then measure between the marks you put on the floor. hey Bob is it plumb ?

 

Install the mounts in the car and measure the space. BTW, all 260/289/302/351 had the same mounts, with the same spacing.

 

Gotcha. Something similar to Supershifters suggestion (assuming no one knows here) is to take a piece of thread with a heavy nut (essentially a poor mans plumb bob) tied to one end, remove an engine mount bolt and then wrap the thread around the bolt and reinstall bolt. Do this on each motor mount and make sure the thread is on the same side of the bolt (since you can't get it centered over the bolt). Then measure perpendicular (see note below) distance between the two dangling strings. Another method would be to mark the concrete for each of the 4 engine bolts, use a straightedge to connect the pair of marks, and then measure perpendicular to the lines.

Keep in mind the motor mounts are offset roughly 1.25" so that the same upper motor mounts can be used on each side. Because of this you won't be able to measure exactly from string to string. This will also cause you headaches if you are making the engine stand and exactly lining up the motor mount bolt holes. FYI

 

Well, there's the rub. The car currently has an engine in it, and I am driving it home tonight. The new engine is sitting in an old tire, needing a full rebuild. I am wanting to build a roll-around engine stand/frame to support the engine and keep it out of the way until I need it. I don't like the stand-up-and-rotate ones because they take up too much floor space for storage. Right now I have 2 289 engines sitting around and just acquired 2 more HO engines. SO, easily roll-around castered stands are a lot more fun.

 

there is a product called "MOTO FEET" they are on the web and you can get them with casters and roll the engine around. you can get a set for a sbf from paw with casters for about 100.

 

A few years ago I kept seeing these stands at swap meets for $40 or so. But only for Chevys. Ticked me off and I wanted one so I built my own. I didn't measure squat. I flipped a block over upside down and went from there. Basically built the stand upside down. I put an oil pan on the block to make sure it was high enough. I welded it out of some 1"x1" square tubing I had around, a couple of angle brackets likewise, and some Harbor freight casters. When I get around to it I might throw another one together.
Plans? I don't need no steenking plans.
I could take a picture but it's essentially just one of these modified slightly to fit a Ford and with added casters.

 

i have an engine dolly that has two uprights ,one on each side that the motor mounts bolt to, it presently doesnt have an engine on it,just have the 2 mototr mounts attached and the measurement from center of bolt hole that mounts the motor mounts to the block is 13 1/4 inches from side to side. ps-send me an email if u dont understand me and ill snap a picture and email it to u. its made for 260/289/302. wes

 

Wes,
I think that is what I will have to do. I have the design started in AutoCAD, but will have to finish the final placement from after-the-fact measurements. Then, I can cut and weld more stands easily. My friend at work is building fence with 2x2 square tubing, 11 gauge. I can get 20' stick from him for $30, which makes two stands. Should be plenty strong.

 

On my spare Boss 302 block, the bolt C/L to C/L spacing appears to be 13.25".
I threw two bolts in it and used a tape measure. The bolt holes aren't directly
across from each other, but that's the number......