I stuck some of the cheap adhesive roof repair material in mine about 6 years ago and it's still stuck there.

 

Your headliner alone will take care of most of it.

 

I used this stuff, will easily do 2 cars. Easy to install, peel and stick with a very nice bond. Easy to trim with scissors. Thermal and sound properties and decently priced.

Noico Red

 

I still need to get it out side in the sun and roll it out better..

 

I used some stuff I had lying around the shop that was similar to what caper50m used. The trick to whatever you use is to not have it too thick- specifically where the bows reside. another trick- use the small wires I sent you on the rear bows like factory. When you stretch the headliner forward, you can do the same with thin wire- like piano wire. Poke the wire through the sleeve and wrap it around the bow in 2 spots about 1/2 way between the visors and the mirror. Pull the headliner tight, then pull your wires straight forward to the header panel and mark a dot on the underside lip. Drill a small hole there, then run your wire through and pull it tight, wrap it around itself. I found that this keeps the headliner nice and tight in place making it much easier to glue the edges. It also means you're not relying on the glue to hold all the tension. I've done this numerous times and it make sit easier and near eliminates every wrinkle!

 

+1 for Kilmat. You can get by with about 4 sheets spread about.

 

I'm leaning towards the Kilmat, but Amazon is the only place I see to buy it and it says it's currently unavailable. Kilmat is made in Russia, so I don't expect it to be available anytime soon. Noico or Siless are available. The more research I do on these vibration reducing mats is they're all good, as long as I go with the butyl over the asphalt for the ceiling, so it's just a matter of finding something available and buying it.

When I originally said I want to keep the noise down, I really meant dampening roof vibrations, since this is a large expanse of unsupported sheet metal. That mat in-between the roof crossmember and roof is no longer touching the roof, so it has no support. I would think that the vinyl top will help give the metal some mass, but a few sheets of something certainly won't hurt.

 

Kilmat is a good choice. I used roof gutter membrane... same kind of stuff. What you need is some mass to absorb the panel vibrations. I also added some reflective backed insulation to help keep things cool.

 

I plan to put both heat insulating and sound insulating layers on my roof when I get to that point. For the heat you can paint on Master Series Silver with some ceramic microspheres added (aka DIY Lizard Skin) and then add the Kilmat, etc. to the top of that for insulation.
Here's a post by Kelly-H explaining: A final review: Homemade LizardSkin and Second Skin...

 

This company has both asphalt and butyl based sound deadener. I recommend the butyl based for the interior.

B-Quiet | Premium Sound Deadening | Denver, CO

B-Quite Sound Deadening has been the leader in sound deadening and sound dampening for over 20 years with thousands of happy customers. Visit our site today.

www.b-quiet.com

 

Noico and foil backed felt here. Also in the sail panels. We often get well into the 100 degree temps in the summer and my roof stays cool and when you tap on it you just get a dull thud. All fit fine under a one piece MTF headliner.

 

I want one of those one piece headliners and overhead consoles...but their new console has a badge on it and uglier buttons. Do you know if they offer a bare console without lights and buttons? I don't have any need for map lights, but it would be a great place to put AC vents.

 

Supposedly the 67-68 overhead console will go into a 65-66 with a little bracketry and ingenuity. Some AC vents or some small speakers would be trick.

 

Really? I always thought the 67-68 console didn't fit the 65-66 for some reason. Makes those occasional OEM overhead consoles that pop up on FB marketplace a lot more appealing. What I really should do though is make my own. Just buy the brushed aluminum trim piece and make the console itself from fiberglass and cover it with vinyl like I did the floor console...that would allow me to eliminate the switches and build in some ducting for AC...in the place of the switches I could put a digital display panel for outside air temp and compass like many more modern overhead consoles have.