check your list compared to mine.
dont think the bell bolts from c4 will all work lengths are different.
need bolts for flywheel to engine,Advanced Auto.... pressure plate bolts are metric,Ford Dealer.
some folks dont need to shorten driveline, some do, i had to shorten mine.
throw out bearing,new style ,new style fork.
reuse old tranny rubber mount or get a new one, reuse old crossmember bolts.
bolt in the shifter b4 install.use just a little sealer on the shifter to tranny, so as not to sqeeze any into tranny.
What else ?.......4 jac stands and a spare cement block or two just in case...unless you have a lift
...dont forget to add tranny fluid.

 

something like 2.8 quarts tranny fluid MerconIII or other syn

 

I do have the flywheel to engine block bolts . Wonder how that slipped my mind. I have the new style clutch fork & throw out bearing. Everything I have is for a '86-'93 T5 with cable clutch set up. I do have the jack stands but lucky for me a buddy of mine has a lift. I'll see if I can confim the bell housing to engine block bolt question.

Thanks,

 

old c4 starter and bolts should be ok too.
im sure i had to get a couple longer bell to engine bolts.......SAE
and do you have
tranny to bell housing bolts....METRIC

 

You'll need a pump to get the fluid in, assuming you put it in after you install the tranny.

 

You'll need a pump to get the fluid in, assuming you put it in after you install the tranny.

Or you can do as I did and remove the shifter and fill the t5 from that opening... makes it quick and easy!

 

You don't need a pump or to remove the shifter. You just need a funnel and about 3 feet of (preferably clear) tubing. Stick the tubing on the end of the funnel and into the fill hole. I zip tied the funnel to the export brace to keep it upright. The fluid flows slowly so you have to be patient. I would fill up the funnel and go do something else for 10 minutes. Eventually I got it all in there.

 

You need the bolts to go from the tranny to bell housing. IIRC those are metric.

 

Any fore seeable issues with the clutch cable and headers if you plan or have them?

 

A trick I use is to leave the bell housing bolts loose, about a quarter inch, which gives you some slop for poking the input shaft through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing. This is always that hardest part -- sometimes it slides right in and sometimes it takes a half hour or more.

I also use a couple of headless bolts to guide the tranny onto the bell housing, and I have bolts of three lengths to draw the tranny into the bell. Don't force it, just a nice easy draw. Maybe you won't need these tricks with a lift, but with jackstands and a 96 pound weakling (me) manipulating the tranny, I need all the crutches I can get.

I'm wondering about 68RCodeConv's remark that it takes a long time for the ATF to flow through his funnel rig, if he's using gear lube not ATF.

Final $.02, if you're using the California Pony tubular crossmember and you're running headers, stop right now and get the sheet metal unit from NPD, or you won't have any parking brake. A parking brake is a necessity with a stick, and I guess to make sure that your parking brake is working should be on your list too.

 

I don't think anyone has mentioned the T-5 block plate that goes between the bellhousing and the engine block. You'll need that too.

 

Final $.02, if you're using the California Pony tubular crossmember and you're running headers, stop right now and get the sheet metal unit from NPD, or you won't have any parking brake. A parking brake is a necessity with a stick, and I guess to make sure that your parking brake is working should be on your list too.

I have patriot brand Tri-Y's, California Pony tubular crossmember and was able to hook the parking brake up just fine, same as stock - no modification, what problem did you experience?

 

I have patriot brand Tri-Y's, California Pony tubular crossmember and was able to hook the parking brake up just fine, same as stock - no modification, what problem did you experience?

The mounting bracket for the E brake lever aimed the lever right at the header collector. It positioned the lever about 1.5" to 2" different than the stock location. Maybe they redesigned it so it would work -- what a concept! -- at the same time as they started drilling the mounting holes in a spot where they would match the holes on the car. That's another defect to the Cal Pony design that they perpetrated for many years until they decided to stop blaming the customer and fix it.

 

Kevin's right. T5 style block plate was left off of your list.

You WILL need new bellhousing to block bolts--but only 4 IIRC. Four of the bosses on a T5 bell are thicker than on a C4 so you need longer bolts. You can re-use two of the original bolts.

I just did this swap myself on my '67. With Tri-Y's, you should have no header clearance issues with the clutch cable. With my Hooker Comps, I have to re-route the cable--still haven't done that yet.

BTW, I used the Ron Morris crossmember, and also had to massage the holes on one side for fit, but clearance is great on that piece.

 

can you use the existing brake pedal by cutting the foot pad down like you can on a '65 / '66?

Be prepared for the driveline angle to be more like 4 degrees instead of 3 degrees which does not sound like much but it's enough that you now have potential fan blade interference issues and U joint / driveshaft angle issues that may cause vibration. I shimmed up the trans by 1/2" using aluminum plate to restore the driveline angle back to almost 3 degrees on a '65. This required notching the upper trans crossmember in the trans tunnel for the T5 to clear (that's most likely why the aftermarket crossmembers don't give you 3 degrees driveline angle).

 

I must be getting old. I have the block plate. I'm running Hedman Elite shortie's so I don't expect to run into any fitment problems w/my cross member. Guess I need 4 BH bolts...