I have always just bolted it on.

An alignment tool is news to me. I can't see how one would be needed with that many bolts and the lack of wiggle around the bolts.

 

I start all the bolts finger tight and if the pan is on and I'm using those dog ears I will generally have to start the front 4 oil pan to timing cover bolts and pull the timing cover down some. I just eyeball the crank snout and make sure it is centered inside the front seal.


It was easier on my 331 because the block has the locator pins in the bottom outside timing cover holes to help align it. Ford should of thought of that a long time before they finally did.

 

If they are missing, I add the two lower "dowel pins" at the bottom two bolt holes that obviate the need for aligning in later covers. I've not had in my hands a timing cover that did not have the lower holes larger to accept the pins though I'm told earlier ones didn't have those. I've pulled a few covers off that didn't have the pins even though they were machined for them.

It always bothers me to call them "pins" as they are hollow cylinders like the ones on the cylinder heads and the lower bolts go through them.

 

Me too, I’ve generally eye balled it too in the past. Last time I used the balancer. I guess you could measure it side to side on the crank.

How did you make out on the pin?

 

One COULD cheaply make an alignment tool using 2 short pieces of Schedule 40 PVC pipe, one in 1.25" and one in 1.5". The 1-1/4" pipe is the perfect size ID (1.380") to fit over the 1.375" crank snout, and the 1-1/2" pipe is the perfect size (1.990") to fit inside the 1-7/8" seal.

The problem is that the 1-1/4" pipe OD at 1.660" is a bit large to fit the 1-1/2" pipe's 1.610 ID, so you need to find a way to remove 0.025" from the outside of the 1-1/4" pipe to be able to glue them together. For those lacking a lathe, you might find it difficult to do this but not impossible. It might work if you can find a way to spin the piece of pipe, even if it is not EXACTLY on center, and use a piece of wide emery cloth to remove material, a little at a time while checking the fit.

 

pprince - news to me too til I read about it in the manual (1969, Vol II, 08-05-10).

mac and Gypsy - no pins or sleeves or whatever you want to call them on the cover or in the block. This is the 3rd engine I've used the cover on. It was on the 302 that was in the car when I bought it in 2004. I was a newbie to this hobby back then... wondering if those sleeves might have been junked with the engine after it blew up one fateful night. There weren't any on the 351W (75) I replaced it with, and there weren't any on this 351W (72) either.

Huskinhano - after 3 pages of questions and advice, I feel like an idiot. When I pulled the timing cover and saw that the bolt came loose, I slid the timing set back in place (so I thought) and the dowel was flush with the gear face, but never tightened it up. If you look at my last post on the thread... well... yeah... (don't tell anyone)… when I tightened up the gear the dowel popped out 1/8". Go figger

Woodchuck - I just happen to have various pieces of PVC pipe hanging around the garage, along with some drum sander bits, and a drill press. That idea just might work.

Thanks guyz!

 

I just watched a you tube video today where he used alignment dowels.

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I knew you’d get it resolved!

 

I'm guilty of leaving the timing cover (TC) loose, partially sliding on the damper to center the oil seal in the TC on the damper shaft, tighten the TC in place and then removing the damper to complete the process. Never considered it a lot of work once I had the puller handy. Never knew there was dedicated tool for doing it.

 

Is that normal on a 351W to see the dist gear like that?

 

With the cam sprocket out of the way, yes.

 

Harmonic balancer is the way to go if you don't have the tool. It will ensure the seal has equal pressure all the way around. Even slightly off can cause a leak. My 2 cents after having done it in the past couple of months.

 

I do believe I'm going that route. I'll bolt it loosely, slide the balancer in place, then tighten up the cover.

One other question having to do with the gasket kit: what's this sleeve for?... (I know what the keys are for). :nerd:

 

Uh, that's a Redi-sleeve. You beat it on over your balancer when the balancer has grooves worn in it from the old oil seal.
I wouldn't use the sleeve unless I absolutely had to. They tend to be pretty tricky to install without mucking them up. Plus you want to use some red LocTite to make sure it stays on. So not only is it difficult, you kind of have one shot at doing it right. Some National Bearing sleeves come with an installation tool which makes all the difference in the world. I've not seen such a tool in a Felpro timing cover gasket kit, but I've not paid the extra for the kit that includes the sleeve in many years.