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What's it Worth - 68 Fastback GT

4.8K views 41 replies 28 participants last post by  jackflack  
#1 ·
I'd like to get some input on the value of a 68 Mustang Fastback GT project I'm going to look at. Rebuilt 302, C4 trans, 9inch rear, front disc brakes. Car is apart, body will need some bodywork but no rust work, floors and quarters replaced, some new parts, comes with a Marti report. The guy has all the parts to put it back together including many new parts.

That's all the info I have until I get a look at it. What would be a good price to get it for? Thanks
 

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#11 ·
This is one of the things that really bothers me about our obsession. I know a young kid right now that is looking for a project car. He doesn't have 10K. These prices may be good in the sellers market but it has priced a lot of younger folks out of the restore a car hobby altogether. I would not even pay 10 grand for something like that even if I have the money. Perhaps that is why I have only 1 mustang project. The other restore I have done is my 79 F150. I got it for $600 and it would crank up and roll. It is now a very nice regular driver pick up and car hauler.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Lucky for me I've always liked hardtops, even as a kid it was the hardtop that caught my eye, not the fastback right down the street.

FB prices these days are through the roof, especially for the rusted rollers that so many potentail buyers are finding and then are totally sticker shocked with. :shocked:

Gotta admit, even I was blown away when I started looking to get back in the Hot Rod scene with my rustbucket, one of the first threads that I read on another board, before I graduated to this one, was about a new purchase from a member. He had "stolen" a 68 hardtop, complete, but worn out for $1,000. "Man, this guys crazy, that car's not worth that much,...!!".

Wake up call Tommy. Of course a steal is what I got for $300, but thats another thread.

I miss the days when you could pick up any Muscle Car that you wanted from the Sunday paper, Cuda, Challenger, Camaro, Charger, GTO, Chevelle,...............damn those were the days. :thumbsup:
 
#17 · (Edited)
I paid $9.5k for my rust-free '68 convertible shell. Since I don't have the time to do the rust repairs myself, and the cost of having someone else do it is far more than what I paid for a rust-free shell, I thought it was a good deal. The other alternative for me was a Dynacorn shell and those are $15k. So I think an original '68 FB with a lot of the other parts and no rust is actually worth a solid $10k. Given this is a J-Code GT with some nice options (i.e., console), I'd actually pay up to $13k for it if it were me. But, that's just me.
 
#19 ·
As it sits.. about $500, cash only, which I happen to have on me... Now where is it?
I will come take the it off your hands.

Mods are now very pizzed due to the fact that the server crashed due to the heavy inlux of PM's from members also offering the same $500 for that rusted, crappy, worn out relic,......
 
#20 ·
I thought I got a good deal on this, but whoever put the floorpans in it should have their arse drug through sand spurs. So thats gotta be redone and the driver front torque box and battery apron, but other than that it's pretty darn solid, and it came with a nice paint job, even though I'll eventually change the color. Here's what she looked like when we brought her home, had been sitting covered up for almost ten years, gave $4800
 

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#22 · (Edited)
$4800 is a very good price for what you have shown and mentioned here. Well done.

And $10,000 for a true "no rust" 68 S code GT... grab it. Better look real close at the "no rust" parts and everything else. Seems like a good price for a BB.

OOPs my mistake it's a SB then that means $10,000 is an OK and fair price as long as everything is turning and ready for install and it is truly rust free. IMO
.

Were there SB GTs in 68?
 
#21 ·
Very nice from the pic,.....:thumbsup:
 
#23 ·
I agree with those who are saying that the hobby is getting too expensive.. Blame it on the Baby Boomers. I bet in 15 years the prices will tumble. Problem is... there aren't many 25 year olds in the hobby... They either can't afford them or they simple don't like these old antiquated no technology no electronic hunks of metal..

$10K - in this market, that is a deal in my opinion. I bet that car would bid up to 12-14K on Ebay. Not this time of year though...
 
#26 ·
I agree with those who are saying that the hobby is getting too expensive.. Blame it on the Baby Boomers. I bet in 15 years the prices will tumble. Problem is... there aren't many 25 year olds in the hobby... They either can't afford them or they simple don't like these old antiquated no technology no electronic hunks of metal........
OR, they'd rather have that rice burner with that 10" diameter single muffler out the back:roflao:
 
#33 · (Edited)
++ on what you said jeff. My friend thinks 10k was to much for my 69 and i was like you bought a 06 str8 dodge charger for 30k I think you paid to much. I told him do you know how hard it is to find a rust free 60s or 70s muscle on the east coast and not pay a nice price. As long as these older muscle cars keep going up we will be seeing alot more young guys with the new muscle cars at car shows. That's the main reasons most kids want go to the rice burners because there cheap and make a lot of noise but dont go anywhere lol.
 
#36 ·
That's between $20K and $30K away from completion IF all the pieces are there. Cars like that can be an opportunity for someone who knows them inside out and has both the tools and skills to put it together and properly finish it. Still not an inexpensive opportunity. Or, which is more common, someone with stars in their eyes buys it and stalls in frustration when they realize they're in over their head. Seems that's what happened to the current owner possibly.
There's a huge difference in doing a mild restoration and building a car from the ground up.
Consider this; as you're building this car you'll likely want to replace any worn parts on front and rear suspension; brakes; structure; lighting; electrical wiring; worn interior parts just to mention a few.
No insult intended and it is a desirable car but go into it with your eyes open and a realistic expectation. There are always surprises putting a vehicle together which translates to more time and money.

Russ
 
#38 ·
There's a huge difference in doing a mild restoration and building a car from the ground up.
Consider this; as you're building this car you'll likely want to replace any worn parts on front and rear suspension; brakes; structure; lighting; electrical wiring; worn interior parts just to mention a few.
No insult intended and it is a desirable car but go into it with your eyes open and a realistic expectation. There are always surprises putting a vehicle together which translates to more time and money.

Russ
I think you're exactly right and some good advice to heed. I've been looking for one that needed some minor work and they are few and far between for a decent price. This one was presented to me and made me think it wouldn't be a bad project if everything was there. I really didn't consider how much work would be involved until recently and your post kind of brought it home for me. I'm still interested in it however not as much as when I started this thread.

I guess my real question is what would be a good price to pay for it in case I find myself in over my head and need to bail on it and get my money back. I know others have said $10K but I was thinking $6K to $7K was where I'd be comfortable.
 
#37 ·
98%

I always liked the "98% complete". If the car has 10,000 parts, 200 are missing!
 
#40 ·
I paid almost $10K for mine. Hand to replace the floors, trunk, cowl, and doors. Another $10K plus hundreds of hours of free labor and i'm nearly done. I have all the receipts, but have never added them up. Figure I will do that when its complete.
Before:
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After:
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Probably the most difficult, and rewarding project I have ever undertaken. Have fun.