You will need gaskets; fuel pump, water pump. timing cover and some ATV/Black Silicone, a timing gear puller and crank shaft seal installer is nice to have. Small block car ? So you won't need some of the stuff needed for the BB FE motors. Don't forget to silicone the bolts/holes going into the water jackets. Brian

 

I've had great success with Cloyes brand timing sets.

This was a Comp Cams timing set after a few thousand miles, would never purchase again.

 

I've had great success with Cloyes brand timing sets.

This was a Comp Cams timing set after a few thousand miles, would never purchase again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_M6abbd5Io

Yikes! This certainly doesn't improve my impression of Comp Cams hardware.

 

^^^^^^^

Yes ! Get the Cloyes double roller timing set, and don't look back.

Z

PS

Permatex markets a specific RTV for water pump, thermostat, and intake areas that have a coolant passageway. It only comes in small tubes (at least that I've found), and is pricey. But I've found nothing better.

 

Buy a new water pump. Get a long piece of angle iron from something like a bed frame. Drill two holes that line up with the balancer pulley holes. You're going to bolt it to the balancer to break loose and later tighten up the bolt. Do you have a torque wrench? HF has good deals on them and they're actually pretty good. Clean the threads on all the bolts as well as all the bolt hole threads. Personally I like to use antisieze on the threads. Next time every thing comes apart easily. If you don't forget a puller to remove the balancer.

 

Cloyes sounds fine to me. I noticed that the edelbrock says it might push out the balancer 1/8". I certainly don't like the idea of having to deal with realigning all the pulleys. The cloyes doesn't say anything about that so I guess that means it won't? I'm looking at the 9-1138 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1138/overview/make/ford). Does this look like the right one?

Buy a new water pump.

Is this a "while you're at it, you might consider replacing the water pump" kind of suggestion or are you saying using my existing pump will be problematic for some reason? I'm assuming the former, though I did replace my pump a number of years back so I certainly hope it won't be failing anytime soon.

Also, measure the thickness of the hub area on your upper timing gear. Some are thicker/thinner that others, and it can lead to rubbing against the inside of the timing cover by the fuel pump eccentric. All those aluminum shavings circulating through your engine is NOT a good thing.

Being a daily driver I haven't been planning to start disassembly until I get parts so I hope I won't have a problem with the cloyes. Sounds like I shouldn't but I'll watch for that.

I'll give a "thumbs up" to Mustangs Unlimited on things like this. I did a C4 to T5 swap. When ordering the cable clutch, I asked the rep, "E-mail a list of everything I'll need". Holy schiznit... pedal bushings, pads, pad trim, clips, washers, nuts, you name it... stuff I never would have thought of and would have had to wait days if, in the middle of assembly thought, "oh, I need one of those".
I'm sure many other suppliers could provide the same for your project. Put the question out to a few suppliers, compile the list, and buy everything Ain't classic Mustangs a fun hobby?!

Great idea, but it doesn't look like the mustang shops carry cloyes for some reason. But it seems like this should be a lot more straightforward than a tranny swap in terms of parts needed.

Appreciate the advice everyone! I'm so excited to get this done!

 

Also, measure the thickness of the hub area on your upper timing gear. Some are thicker/thinner that others, and it can lead to rubbing against the inside of the timing cover by the fuel pump eccentric. All those aluminum shavings circulating through your engine is NOT a good thing.

 

I'll give a "thumbs up" to Mustangs Unlimited on things like this. I did a C4 to T5 swap. When ordering the cable clutch, I asked the rep, "E-mail a list of everything I'll need". Holy schiznit... pedal bushings, pads, pad trim, clips, washers, nuts, you name it... stuff I never would have thought of and would have had to wait days if, in the middle of assembly thought, "oh, I need one of those".
I'm sure many other suppliers could provide the same for your project. Put the question out to a few suppliers, compile the list, and buy everything Ain't classic Mustangs a fun hobby?!

 

The Mustang Barn also offered that service, but few took advantage of it.

 

Should probably add that you will need to drain down the water in the block and radiator. Brian

 

Yes, good ole double roller

Z

 

Might consider changing the oil pan gasket and cleaning out the oil pan while you're at it (depending when the last time it was done). When you're pulling the timing cover off, you'll be fighting to try keep old gasket material and coolant from falling into the front of the pan. Also, you'll have to cut the corners of the oil pan gasket which can be quite difficult if it has one of the newer steel-core gaskets.

 

Looks like the one.

If you want overkill, I went with this one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3535x9/overview/make/ford

 

I'm all for overkill if it's beneficial. Seems like the timing set is a good place to pay for quality so I'll definitely consider that!

 

I'm sure the other one would be fine as well, but after getting burned with the Comp brand set I wasn't going to take any chances. :skullnbones:

Man, I was pissed that day LOL.

 

Yeah, exactly. I don't want to do this twice and another $35-ish for that kind of peace of mind is not wasted money.

 

I was looking at the Cloyes catalog (page 6 of pdf: http://www.cloyes.com/Images/HP_AppPagesB.pdf) and the 9-1138 appears not to apply to the 289 and the 9-1135 (or 9-3535X9 billet) is the right one. The difference is apparently 1 pc fuel pump eccentric vs 2 pc. I didn't even know what a fuel pump eccentric was until I just googled it. So to confirm, my 289 would be a 1 pc eccentric and I should choose accordingly, right? And would the eccentric be something I ought to replace while I'm doing this? By the looks of it I would think eccentrics would experience quite a bit of wear over 50 years.

 

The two-piece fuel pump eccentric was first available in the '70s. So if your engine is still the original 289 from '66 then the Cloyes timing chain with the part number 9-1135 is the right one.
I bought the same one last year for my '68 289 engine and it fits perfectly. Should have bought that one in the first place.
I had to replace it because my Comp Cams double roller timing chain (with no more than 1500 miles on it) looked exactly the same like the one happystang postet in the video.

You don't have to change the fuel pump eccentric unless you can feel a deep groove on the surface then I would change it with a new one just to be sure.

 

Yeah I decided to hold off on the thought of replacing the eccentric until I tear in and have a look due to price.

Forgive my ignorance.

Why is that much slop in the timing chain bad?

Nine degrees of "slop" at the balancer is 4-1/2 degrees of "slop" at the camshaft which ain't a great deal. It doesn't sound, to me, like you have a slack chain.

I'm not an expert here but I'm just going off of what Dan at Mustang Barn told me and how he told me to check. He said more than 3 or 4 degrees suggests it needs replacing and I got 9 using his method of measuring.

 

Forgive my ignorance.

Why is that much slop in the timing chain bad?

 

Nine degrees of "slop" at the balancer is 4-1/2 degrees of "slop" at the camshaft which ain't a great deal. It doesn't sound, to me, like you have a slack chain.

 

I copied this off my GT40P post so you don't have to wade through a bunch of stuff. This is some info on the dimensions of the parts associated with the 1 piece and 2 piece eccentric timing chain sets.

Today I was thinking it's been 31 years since a Mustang has been sold with a carburetor, no wonder a lot of guys working on Mustangs get goofed up on this. Since I finished up my GT40P swap it would be a good opportunity to cover it. Ford used 2 styles of fuel pump eccentrics. a 1 piece cast used from 1962 to about 1970. From 1970 and up a 2 piece eccentric. It really doesn't matter which one you use so long as you don't mix parts. I'm not really sure of any advantages between the two other then I've heard the 2 piece has less friction. The timing chain set must match the eccentric style.

Thanks to cmefly for providing me with the dimension of the 1 piece eccentric cam sprocket were it attaches to the cam. It's 3/4". The 2 piece cam sprocket is slightly thicker at 15/16" or .937" according to my chinese caliper.

The dowels are different as well. The 1 piece eccentric uses a dowel about1 3/8" or 1.385"

The 2 piece eccentric uses a shorter dowel at 1 1/8" or 1.124" to my caliper.

I have to apologize but I thought I had pictures of the eccentrics measured. Apparently I don't but I do have the measurements! The 1 piece, the best I could do after scraping the caked on oil off was .951". the 2 piece is shorter at .827" or 1/8" or .124" on my caliper.

 

The left side of the chain is taut but I'm pretty sure this is more slack than it ought to have, isn't it?

 

Do you have the Ford published shop manual ? I believe it states in detail the correct procedure for determining the allowable slack. The manual is the best authority, as it was written by the engineers who designed the engine.

 

The '67 shop manual shows the "Timing Chain Deflection (Maximum)" as .500".

Your '66 is probably the same but if you want to check it it's under "Camshaft Drive Mechanism" in the Specifications section at the back of the engine chapter in the manual. It looks like it's the same for all of the available engines.

 

Indeed. And I'm not 100% positive I'm doing it right but the way I read the shop manual I should move all slack to the left (taut on the right) and measure the distance from the chain pushed inward to the chain pushed outward. I measure at least an inch. No real surprise, given the way my engine has been running and the fact that I haven't changed it in my 30 years of ownership and would guess it's therefore original.

 

Get your stuff from Summit and/or Rock Auto parts. They beat everybodies prices and have the same stuff as everybody else. No need to go with a Mustang only parts place for SBF stuff.
6sally6

 

Already have my cloyes timing set from summit. They amaze me with how fast their shipping is and free over 99.

 

I got my old timing set off and I'm ready to install the new set. However, the small gear's notch/key (if that's what you call it) doesn't line up exactly with the TDC tooth and mark. It's slightly offset, whereas the original lines right up. See attached pic. Should I be concerned? It seems like that will slightly alter the timing. I wonder if it's defective, not the right part, or if there's something I just don't understand here. Hoping for insight from those of you who are experienced with this!

It's a cloyes 9-1135 FWIW.

Also, not relevant to this issue but I attached a pic showing how the stretched chain started rubbing down part of the timing cover (not sure what you call that part that sits between the 2 gears). Just thought it was an interesting illustration of being overdue for a change.

 

It finally clicked. I remembered something about the timing set itself being adjustable and I now realize that you choose the notch/key according to what you want timing wise. In my prior post I assumed you chose the notch/key according to the shape of the notch on the shaft (the gear has a squared, a rounded, and a "triangled" notch) but now I'm pretty sure I can use any of the 3 notches.

It does make me curious though... what would be the reason to choose one of the other 2 timing choices? I realize that would affect valve timing but from a practical standpoint. Why would I want to do that? I assume for a relatively stock engine (just intake and exhaust being non-stock) I would want the 0 degrees one but what would be the conditions in which I'd want to either retard or advance the valve timing?